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Old 11-21-2015, 04:15 PM   #1
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Can my 2304DS handle 6500'elevation and weather in the 20s?

In its stock configuration, no tank heaters, etc. Just the on-board furnace and maybe a couple of space heaters.

Is this a feasible trip, or should we stick to warmer climes?

We are relatively new at this, so feel free to tell us if it is not doable, or is dangerous.
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:04 AM   #2
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I can't speak to the general heating, but with temps in the 20s you will need to be winterized and run dry. You can keep the water you need inside.

At that elevation you will need electric to run the refrig. It might work on gas but chances are your manual like ours says always use electric above 5000'. (Or just use the outside compartments!)

If you have shore power, you can run an electric space heater, just be vigilant about fire safety and watch your combined amp load on your power line.




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Old 11-22-2015, 11:34 AM   #3
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Are you talking about highs in the 20s or lows in the 20s?
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:05 AM   #4
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Lows in the 20s. If it drops to highs in the 20s we will cancel the trip and head down the coast.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:25 AM   #5
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Depends on what you want for comfortable level. Even when sealed all the oversize holes and gaps you will get drafts. I do it for work reasons and often have on long johns and hoodie. Wife likes a blanket. That makes it ok for us. Would we want to be in a warmer spot yes.

Expect propane tank to last 1.5 to 3 days.

No help with frig as I have never camped in that elevation.




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Old 11-23-2015, 11:27 AM   #6
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We camp often with lows in the 20s and teens. Like this week. Never a problem. Unless temps are sustained below freezing for several days, I doubt your unheated tanks would freeze. Ours never have. As long as they are not full, freezing just means you can't dump until they thaw. Just make sure there's room for expansion.
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:20 PM   #7
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We spend weeks at a time at elevations from 5000' to 7000' in our Rockwood. All gas appliances have worked fine up to 9000' where my water heater will no longer operate even though the refrig. is still okay. My dealer suggested re-jetting to correct that failure.
We seldom use the furnace; we heat with a gas infrared heater, and go weeks rather than days on a 30 lb. propane tank. Some folks will say those aren't safe, but thousands of ice fishermen use them and are alive and well.
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:49 PM   #8
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Frozen,,,,,if you're using a gas operated heater in your living space,,,,,you're pushing your luck. I've been in the heating and AC business for 40 years, and I've had customers like you end up in the hospital with CO poisoning. If you insist on using it,,,,make sure you have a good Carbon Monoxide detector. You could wake up dead some morning,,,,and I'm dead serious! When you buy a detector,,,,,STUDY the symptoms of poisoning......you are taking one heck of a dangerous chance.
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Old 11-23-2015, 03:23 PM   #9
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Scottandanna: I didn't realize propane was a factor at such elevations, so my post probably didn't make much sense. We camp all winter, but in North Carolina, all under 3000 feet.
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Old 11-23-2015, 04:21 PM   #10
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Since we are still newbs at using this trailer, we are beginning to think this may be a bit TOO much adventure for us.

We are currently in Port Aransas, TX on the beach, it is cool, but nice, and only 5 hours from home.

We are thinking of cancelling our mountain reservations and coming back here for a week or two this winter. We love the beach in winter.

We love the mountains, too, but not if we are putting our property, our lives, and our pets lives in danger while doing it.
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:59 PM   #11
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Probably a wise decision. You will learn your comfort levels. If I was even having a bad feeling I would back. Just my experience. I have fought cold climates for the last four years or so. Last year was the worst with water. Nothing big. Heat tape shorted out or burnt into after the heated hose wouldn't work with neighbor setup. Got slushy in the basement but nothing busted. Consider my self lucky considering the first time with the family here.

Good luck in your adventures.


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Old 11-23-2015, 07:39 PM   #12
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I was up at the lolo hot springs in MT last April, it went down to 20* at night, the only thing that froze was the hose bib and hose. next night I disconnected and drained with no issues. Heater and fridge worked fine, don't know what the elevation was. empty campground and pick of spots.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:17 PM   #13
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I think you'd be ok and I would do it if I were in your shoes. I'd be more concerned with your diesel fuel gelling than camper issues.

When I camp in the cold, I run my generator non-stop and run a 1500 watt electric heater. It is also supplemented by a small catalytic propane heater. Usually the electric heater does quite well by itself and the propane furnace doesn't come on much at night. If you have the capacity or are running shore power, 2 1500 watt electric heaters would keep things nice and cozy.

Never had an issue with fridge, furnace, or hot water heater at altitudes up to 11,300 feet so I wouldn't worry about that. Propane appliances may be harder to start and using a butane pen torch may be necessary worst case for hot water heater if it won't fire up.

Where are you planning on camping? I'd be more concerned about snowstorms and getting stuck.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:47 PM   #14
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The coldest we've done in our 2011 Georgetown 327DS is an overnight with a low temperature of 18F. We were at a campground with 50A service and I use electric heaters and the furnace. There's also other things I do for cold weather use:
1. The plumbing compartment has a thermostatically controlled 200W home gutter heating strip zip tied to all of the pipes with three wraps around the filter and a wrap around the impeller portion of the water pump. It's powered from an outlet I installed in the roof of the compartment. This outlet is connected through the 1kw inverter I had installed so I can run the fridge and this heating strip on AC while driving in cold weather.
2. I always run on internal water when it's cold. There's no way I'd expect to keep a hose from freezing and even if I could, I don't want to have the hydrant pipe burst the way another RV at the park did. They left the city water turned on overnight and had a lawn sprinkler in the morning when the ice melted. The park owner told them that they'd be responsible for the $1k cost to have a plumber fix it during the winter season when the ground was frozen.
3. The large slide (dining area and couch) is always kept closed. There's less surface area to radiate heat and the weather sealing is better when it's closed. We also usually keep the bedroom slide closed but need to open it up for a few minutes in the morning to access the drawers and one closet.
4. The acrtic pack is always turned on.
5. I have a remote reading thermometer mounted near the floor of the plumbing compartment. This lets me monitor the temperature there from inside the coach.

The biggest heat loss area is the single pane windows. (I didn't know when buying the unit that I needed a 4-season rig.) Aluminized bubble foam covers for the windows makes a big difference and they can be rolled up for storage when not in use. They also help cut down heat gain when using the RV in the Summer.

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