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Old 11-23-2015, 05:59 PM   #11
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Where the camper is
Posts: 592
Probably a wise decision. You will learn your comfort levels. If I was even having a bad feeling I would back. Just my experience. I have fought cold climates for the last four years or so. Last year was the worst with water. Nothing big. Heat tape shorted out or burnt into after the heated hose wouldn't work with neighbor setup. Got slushy in the basement but nothing busted. Consider my self lucky considering the first time with the family here.

Good luck in your adventures.

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Old 11-23-2015, 06:39 PM   #12
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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I was up at the lolo hot springs in MT last April, it went down to 20* at night, the only thing that froze was the hose bib and hose. next night I disconnected and drained with no issues. Heater and fridge worked fine, don't know what the elevation was. empty campground and pick of spots.

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Old 11-23-2015, 10:17 PM   #13
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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I think you'd be ok and I would do it if I were in your shoes. I'd be more concerned with your diesel fuel gelling than camper issues.

When I camp in the cold, I run my generator non-stop and run a 1500 watt electric heater. It is also supplemented by a small catalytic propane heater. Usually the electric heater does quite well by itself and the propane furnace doesn't come on much at night. If you have the capacity or are running shore power, 2 1500 watt electric heaters would keep things nice and cozy.

Never had an issue with fridge, furnace, or hot water heater at altitudes up to 11,300 feet so I wouldn't worry about that. Propane appliances may be harder to start and using a butane pen torch may be necessary worst case for hot water heater if it won't fire up.

Where are you planning on camping? I'd be more concerned about snowstorms and getting stuck.
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:47 PM   #14
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 546
The coldest we've done in our 2011 Georgetown 327DS is an overnight with a low temperature of 18F. We were at a campground with 50A service and I use electric heaters and the furnace. There's also other things I do for cold weather use:
1. The plumbing compartment has a thermostatically controlled 200W home gutter heating strip zip tied to all of the pipes with three wraps around the filter and a wrap around the impeller portion of the water pump. It's powered from an outlet I installed in the roof of the compartment. This outlet is connected through the 1kw inverter I had installed so I can run the fridge and this heating strip on AC while driving in cold weather.
2. I always run on internal water when it's cold. There's no way I'd expect to keep a hose from freezing and even if I could, I don't want to have the hydrant pipe burst the way another RV at the park did. They left the city water turned on overnight and had a lawn sprinkler in the morning when the ice melted. The park owner told them that they'd be responsible for the $1k cost to have a plumber fix it during the winter season when the ground was frozen.
3. The large slide (dining area and couch) is always kept closed. There's less surface area to radiate heat and the weather sealing is better when it's closed. We also usually keep the bedroom slide closed but need to open it up for a few minutes in the morning to access the drawers and one closet.
4. The acrtic pack is always turned on.
5. I have a remote reading thermometer mounted near the floor of the plumbing compartment. This lets me monitor the temperature there from inside the coach.

The biggest heat loss area is the single pane windows. (I didn't know when buying the unit that I needed a 4-season rig.) Aluminized bubble foam covers for the windows makes a big difference and they can be rolled up for storage when not in use. They also help cut down heat gain when using the RV in the Summer.


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