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Old 10-23-2010, 03:45 PM   #61
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It looks like the probe was screwed in w the threads glued. I can't move them
Their video shows how to mount them in new holes. If there is not enough room for your drill, you may be trapped into cutting the soil pipe out of your way and using rubber unions to reassemble it.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:16 PM   #62
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I'll give u a little wishful thinking abt his tank: maybe the tank isn't ruptured, it could be an unglued line at the top of the tank. Could also acc for smell. My'84 gray water would pour out the top when full. My 02 will come back into the lowest drain. My tub was the low spot. My black water never got full while I had it.
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:56 PM   #63
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I'll give u a little wishful thinking abt his tank: maybe the tank isn't ruptured, it could be an unglued line at the top of the tank. Could also acc for smell. My'84 gray water would pour out the top when full. My 02 will come back into the lowest drain. My tub was the low spot. My black water never got full while I had it.
Really in the big scheme of things, whether it cracked, burst, or came unglued, the result was the same. Big bucks repair and a big mess.

I learned a lesson from his unfortunate mishap and hopefully now others will as well. It is why we are all here, no?
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Old 10-23-2010, 10:05 PM   #64
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Hi Jimh & herk ! jimh your right to say a vertical column 10' has about 4.5-4 psi pushing on top of tank. but also change weight of tank by adding volume with a full vent stack. I'm with you on bad glue joint. Just something to think about if that hose was at the bottom of thank & the vent was over flowing would the psi be the same.
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Old 10-23-2010, 11:54 PM   #65
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the more i'm reading this, the more i leaning toward a seperated line or preexixting crack. that would account fot the smell before it was filled.
i don't know what it would take to get to them and see for sure. if it is (and the tanks can be accessed from the top) you may be able to get a fiberglass repair kit and repair the leak. if u have to pull the tank, might as well replace and fix it right. oh, if u opt to fix a crack, drill a small hole at the ends of the crack. if u don't, the crack will continue to run after the repair.
i would really like to know what is ultimantly found.

in one of the post it was said something to the nature that we do this to help one another. i do it for the same reason. it is also a tremendous help to me. i have learned a lot abt my trailer sense i have been on the forem. wheather my post or anyone elses are 100% correct, it gets us thinking and looking at problems from a different angle.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:06 AM   #66
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In one of the post it was said something to the nature that we do this to help one another. I do it for the same reason. it is also a tremendous help to me. I have learned a lot about my trailer sense I have been on the forum. whether my post or anyone else's are 100% correct, it gets us thinking and looking at problems from a different angle.
My sentiments exactly. I looked at holding tank costs (just the tank) and they are not all that expensive. If you are handy enough to get the old one out to repair (and you will have to drop it if the crack is on the top as you suggest) replacement might be the better option.

Having this repair done at a dealer is not cheap at all (my dealer charges a hundred bucks an hour for labor), but if you have a weekend to kill and gutsy enough, give it a whack.

PS Jim I totally apologize for correcting your post's shorthand. My spell checker complained bitterly. I am such a poor speller that I HAVE to use it or you would never figure out what the heck I was talking about.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:29 PM   #67
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My sentiments exactly. I looked at holding tank costs (just the tank) and they are not all that expensive. If you are handy enough to get the old one out to repair (and you will have to drop it if the crack is on the top as you suggest) replacement might be the better option.

Having this repair done at a dealer is not cheap at all (my dealer charges a hundred bucks an hour for labor), but if you have a weekend to kill and gutsy enough, give it a whack.

PS Jim I totally apologize for correcting your post's shorthand. My spell checker complained bitterly. I am such a poor speller that I HAVE to use it or you would never figure out what the heck I was talking about.
u mean....MY SPELLING IS BAD??...i thought it was everyone but me....guess i'm gg to have to figure out if i have a spelleng cker and how to use it.
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:49 PM   #68
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u mean....MY SPELLING IS BAD??...i thought it was everyone but me....guess i'm gg to have to figure out if i have a spelleng cker and how to use it.
Not so bad actually. If you look in the upper right hand corner of the "Reply to Thread" menu bar there is a checkmark with ABC above it. It will point you to a web site called www.iespell.com It is easy as pie to use.

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Old 04-06-2011, 01:56 PM   #69
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I was looking over the thread and was wondering a couple more things.

Is there a laundry hookup in the bathroom? it might be from there depending on how its plumbed. Also check to see if the smell is coming from the walls. maybe a pipe is busted or has come apart inside?
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Old 04-06-2011, 06:26 PM   #70
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Water softener salt is NOT water softener.

It is SALT. NaCl - Sodium Chloride

It is used in water softener ion exchange columns to FLUSH OUT the resin.

It does NOT soften water at all.

Calgon Liquid is sodium polymetaphosphate
sodium polymetaphosphate - PubChem Public Chemical Database

It coats the sides of the tank with "slipperiness" to keep poo and grease from sticking to the walls. Period.
Lou... I am sooo glad you clarified that for me! I am having a heck of a time finding the Calgon Laundry water Softener in my area (north of Atlanta Ga.)...was wondering if there was a substitute for the Calgon... but now I know not! Thanks for your input.
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