Ceramic heaters or RV heat?

Long Islander · 10-20-2013, 06:54 AM

I've been reading folks using ceramic heaters when hooked up to save propane among other reasons.

My question is those things draw a lot of watts.

Can this hurt the electric in any way?

What brand/model heaters do you use?

What's the best placement with kids/dogs in the camper

**Herk7769** · 10-20-2013, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Long Islander

I've been reading folks using ceramic heaters when hooked up to save propane among other reasons.

My question is those things draw a lot of watts.

Can this hurt the electric in any way?

What brand/model heaters do you use?

What's the best placement with kids/dogs in the camper

Yes, they do. 2 - 1500 watt heaters will be close to maxing out a 30 amp camper's AC system (25 amps all by themselves when both are heating at the same time).

Won't hurt anything, but you may find yourself tripping breakers. Never put both on the same power circuit. Most camper circuits are only wired with 15 amp maximum wiring.

Most folks like ceramic.

With kids and dogs I would not use them (or Kerosene for that matter).
Pay for the propane it is much safer as only hot air enters the camper.

Kf4mnc · 10-20-2013, 07:04 AM

I use a Vornado heater sitting on the booth table to maintain the temperature in the trailer. I mainly use it at night because it is much quieter than the camper blower. It is cool to the touch, light weight, thermostically controlled, has a tip over auto shut off and I got mine for $40. That said my camper is only 25 feet with one slide and it works well. In fact one night I left it on constant instead of auto and I woke up sweating half way through the night.

Most heaters use similair wattage. This one on low is 750 watts and 1500 watts on high. I have not run into any problems with it.

OldCoot · 10-20-2013, 07:21 AM

We use an EdenPure electric heater which has a remote thermostat. I ran a separate circuit for the heater. I made a table top with attached light and use it for an end table. When temps are expected to dip to freezing, will flip the extra switch I wired on the furnace blower to circulate warm air into the belly of the trailer. The switch bypasses the burner itself.

racer4 · 10-20-2013, 03:39 PM

A heater that uses 800 watts or less is less likely to cause an electric problem. Many heaters have high - low switches to set watts.

An oil filled heater is less hot to the touch because the heat is spread over a larger surface area, although they are heavier.

If the concern is a small child, perhaps a small heater on top the the stove, with the stove cover closed. This puts it more out of their reach.

Jjsav · 10-20-2013, 03:56 PM

I used this one from Home Depot, Holmes Quartz Tower, for the first time on Columbus Day Weekend. We were in the 40's at night. It heated my 5w very well. I only needed to use it on low. Just had it on high for a few minutes and it brought the camper heat up nicely.

I chose this one because it was small, light and has a tip over shut off.

Another nice feature is that it is quiet, compared to my furnace.

Will be using it again in two weeks, Will probably be in the 30's at night by then. That will be the test.

**Herk7769** · 10-20-2013, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racer4

A heater that uses 800 watts or less is less likely to cause an electric problem.

How so?

rockin'ray · 10-20-2013, 07:08 PM

We now have our trailer on a permanebt seasonal lot and plan on using it a few times over the winter such as Christmas and so on. I have been thinking about getting an infrared heater, or I think that is what they are called to supplement the furnace. My wife always complains about how noisy it is. Has anybody used on of these? I know they are quiet but how are they on power as we have to pay our own power useage during off season? Our trailer is about 35 feet with two slides and curious how it would be to heat it during the colder temps of winter.

Oaklevel · 10-20-2013, 07:44 PM

We have 2 ceramic heaters we run........ on our 30 Amp service , One is a small cube the other is a small tower..... For us it is not a propane use issue. We have a 36' Toyhauler with no heat vents in the garage but two queen beds..... & other than that we have always supplemented the furnace Never had a breaker trip yet but not it say it won't next time........ Usually we only need to use them at night.

jtstromsburg · 10-20-2013, 08:02 PM

Like OC, we use an Edenpure. I know its always stated 1500w is 1500w, but it heats much better, and more evenly, than our oil filled style, and much better than the $29 Walmart one. Plus, I feel its safer than most.

garbonz · 10-20-2013, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldCoot

We use an EdenPure electric heater which has a remote thermostat. I ran a separate circuit for the heater. I made a table top with attached light and use it for an end table. When temps are expected to dip to freezing, will flip the extra switch I wired on the furnace blower to circulate warm air into the belly of the trailer. The switch bypasses the burner itself.

OC. I would love to see a write up on wiring this switch. I posted a question about this about4 days ago and got no takers. I am about to take a look at the wiring diagram, but maybe you already have all this figured out, like you usually do..

Chrisbrock · 10-20-2013, 09:41 PM

What about the heat sump other than using the furnace ?

BeagleIL · 10-20-2013, 10:03 PM

We used 2 ceramic heaters a week ago to keep our 233S warm when the temps dropped into the low 30's. With 3 heated mattresses and 2 ceramics at 1000 watts a piece, I tripped the breaker in the trailer panel a few times on the first night. On the second night, I snaked in a heavy extension cord from the site pedestal and didn't having any problems. The camper stayed completely warm.

Our trailer has a total of 7 outlets, all on the same 15 amp circuit, which is why it tripped. Next spring I'll be putting in another outlet that piggybacks off of the hot water heater. If anything to just put one of the ceramic heaters on it and keep the mattresses on the primary circuit.

00buck · 10-20-2013, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kf4mnc

I use a Vornado heater sitting on the booth table to maintain the temperature in the trailer. I mainly use it at night because it is much quieter than the camper blower. It is cool to the touch, light weight, thermostically controlled, has a tip over auto shut off and I got mine for $40. That said my camper is only 25 feet with one slide and it works well. In fact one night I left it on constant instead of auto and I woke up sweating half way through the night.

Most heaters use similair wattage. This one on low is 750 watts and 1500 watts on high. I have not run into any problems with it.

Me Too. I've tried many heaters. As a rule the fans are too noisy for sleeping. The radiant heaters are nice for sleeping but are generally too big for a travel trailer. The Vornado is great. It doesn't take up much room and is quiet enough to permit a peaceful night's sleep.

The RB · 10-21-2013, 12:03 AM

I run two heaters, one in the bedroom in the back, and the other in the kitchen. After a few breaker tripping incidents, I smartened up and started using the microwave circuit for the front heater. No problems since.

I was thinking about running a 20 amp extension cord along the 30 amp cord. Some parks prohibit using more than plug in, so running them together will fix that.

I like the comfort and low noise from the electric heaters over the noisy propane furnace. Besides, if your paying for the night for full hookups, you might as well get your money's worth and save on propane.

ironj · 10-21-2013, 01:21 AM

i have the fireplace in mine.....love it....never really looked at th1e wattage....i just assumed 1500 on high..... i also run a small ceramic forced air heater in the back bunk where my daughter sleeps...thing is, my thermostat has a zone 1 and 2 for the dual ac.......zone 2 is the master, but i cant run the heater using that zone....or at least i dont think i can....so sometimes heat management in the front can be an issue the rear hits the set temp and the heater kicks off but its still cold in the front bedroom...

anyway

used the two this weekend....i was on 50 amp service but have run that same setup on 30 amps and never tripped a breaker....matter of fact i have never tripped a breaker in my trailer period....it was cold too.....caprock canyon texas......30 degrees....then promptly 80 by 2pm...LOL..gotta love texas weather....

doing this i have used exactly ONE 30lb propane tank in 2yrs of camping.....we normally have hookups so the only propane usage is the stove and the bbq ......or occasionaly the water heater if i run it on rapid recovery mode...and i guess the fridge when we travel....but it uses minimal propane.

anyway yes i use 2 heaters technically.....if you buy one make sure you get one that does fan only too...so you can use it in summer.....and make sure it has an actual thermostat.......i bought a new one this year and when i got home i realized it had hi and low heat....and fan....but no actual thermostat......i like to get the bunkhouse to where i want it and then set the lil heater to maintain that temp for my sleeping princess...

my .02

ironj · 10-21-2013, 01:42 AM

also i might add that my daughter in the back bunk sleeps in a pack and play...so no risk of her messing with heater....we also have a camera setup and can monitor temp, movement and sound from our bed up front......with the fireplace going and my wife with the tv going to sleep we would not be able to hear her otherwise....

since you asked about kids/dogs....i would prob reconsider my setup if you had dogs.....or set heater up high...ive never had issue with my dog messing with the built in fireplace....but i wouldent put much past him....lol

OldCoot · 10-21-2013, 01:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garbonz

OC. I would love to see a write up on wiring this switch. I posted a question about this about4 days ago and got no takers. I am about to take a look at the wiring diagram, but maybe you already have all this figured out, like you usually do..

I first contacted the mfg and was told not to do it as it would void the warranty. As usual, I decided that no more than we experienced cold temps that much in FL, that I would risk it anyway. Unhooked gas line and electrical connections and pulled the entire furnace. Located the hot wire to the blower (I think it was red) and just jumped another red wire from the main supply panel to the switch and then to the blower. Doesn't alter the functioning of the furnace with the thermostat and just turns the blower on independently. Mounted the switch in the panel under the rear counter. Biggest problem was disconnecting and reconnecting the gas line as there is practically no room where it is located in our camper.

Have only used it one night, but it worked flawlessly and kept the air circulating in the floor ducts as expected.

racer4 · 10-21-2013, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racer4;

A heater that uses 800 watts or less is less likely to cause an electric problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

How so?

herk,

I have seen pictures and discussion of an electric outlet in an RV that smoked and melted with an electric heater plugged into it. That particular outlet was connected to the wires using the stab connectors instead of the screw terminals. The surface area of contact between the wire and the outlet is much smaller on a stab connector compared to the screw terminal and in my opinion has a higher chance of overheating if the electric heater is drawing 1500 watts compared to 800 watts.

If the outlet has a good connection with the wires, I expect no problem using a 1500 watt heater. But that "if" is important. How many of us have pulled the outlets out to inspect how the wires are connected?

I feel safer using an electric heater at around 800 watts or less. It heats my RV toasty warm at 30*.

Your mileage may vary. Happy Rving

BeagleIL · 10-21-2013, 11:35 AM

Never quite could understand why they make those outlets with the stab holes. Never use them myself and always use the screw lugs. Adds what? Maybe 30-45 seconds more to the installation time???

Plus for the general homeowner who thinks they're a handyman, not seeing any wires screwed down on the lugs can give them a false sense of it being safe to reach in and grab that outlet. But they'll probably only make that mistake once!

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