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Old 09-13-2013, 01:28 PM   #1
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coach batt drain

I have a 04 GT 359 gas and something keeps running the coach bat. down. New bats. Is their any wiring diag. so I can do some checking.
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Old 09-13-2013, 02:19 PM   #2
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I have a 04 GT 359 gas and something keeps running the coach bat. down. New bats. Is their any wiring diag. so I can do some checking.
Parasitic drains are running your batteries dead such as.

Propane detector
Radio
Tv
Etc etc.

When in storage or not in use you need to either.
disconnect batteries.
Install a battery disconnect.
Or leave unit plugged into shore power.


Turbs
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Old 09-13-2013, 02:33 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
Parasitic drains are running your batteries dead such as.

Propane detector
Radio
Tv
Etc etc.

When in storage or not in use you need to either.
disconnect batteries.
Install a battery disconnect.
Or leave unit plugged into shore power.


Turbs
X's 2 here, you need to install switches at the units that do not have switches on your panel for. You will not go into float mode with the convertor sensing a load as above so you will stay in absorption at 13.6 that will boil your battery down. You will not drop to 13.2V trickle charge on the 3 stage charger from the convertor. Or if you are not connected you will still pull amps to those app. I'm trying to prove that now to myself. But it takes 48 hrs each time I do another app. before the charger will go into float or 13.2 v. So it might take awhile.
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Old 09-13-2013, 03:56 PM   #4
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Huh? All of us using our RVs when connected to shore power are in that situation. I haven't heard of (or experienced) a boiled-dry battery.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:45 PM   #5
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Huh? All of us using our RVs when connected to shore power are in that situation. I haven't heard of (or experienced) a boiled-dry battery.
I really didn"t mean that,(nor did I say that or read that in any post) if you are using your unit you want to be at 13.6 volts, I'm talking about storage in your drive way. If you read the web site it will state that you can not go into float mode if you have or the converter is reading a load. I guess I should have said gassing which is the same. If the converter can not detect a load for 48 hrs it will go into float at 13.2. I'm talking long term not being use. I will bet anyone that they will not read 13.2 when they are using the unit such as camping as we all do. If you turn a load on such as a light the 48 hrs starts over again. What turbo said is correct the propane, Genisis on my unit is always on. I have owned it for 18 mos with a digital meter connected full time and have never seen my amps go down past 13.6, I have seen them go up to 14.4. I'm passing on what I have observed and from a discussion I had with wiretim. My question is has anyone seen there charger WFCO go into the float mode which is 13.2V a trickle charge?.......
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:57 PM   #6
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Well, lots of people are full-timing. What do you think is happening to their batteries?
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:04 PM   #7
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Well, lots of people are full-timing. What do you think is happening to their batteries?
I would hope that they check the levels, it is even more important for full- timers. I didn't mean to start an arguement, just read the web site for WFCO it will explain it. I will let you know if I go into float as soon as I find all the loads and add switches after 48 hrs. as is stated in the specs. Please look it up before you condemn my observation. It is not in any paper work that I got from FR. It will tell you 14.4 max charge, 13.6 absorption mode, 13.2 float after 48 hrs with no loads detected. 13.2 will not gas as bad as 13.6. READ IT BARRY then comment. My ears are open.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:22 PM   #8
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I apologize if it seemed like an "argument". My belief is that either 13.6 doesn't harm the battery or it goes into float mode. I would hope that it would notice that the current has reached a constant value and switch to float based on that, but if that's not what you see, then so be it. I tried to call Progressive Dynamics but they are closed. (As you say, just turning on a light is going to cause a non-constant current, so it probably stays at 13.6 all the time.)
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:40 PM   #9
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Again, I think you need to realize that there are no RVs (or close to zero RVs) in America that don't have those parasitic drains when the battery-disconnect is not disconnected, or that have the converter connected to the battery when the battery disconnect is disconnected. It is possible that the converter makers have created a device for the RV industry that never uses one of the modes they built into it. I hope not.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:43 PM   #10
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I apologize if it seemed like an "argument". My belief is that either 13.6 doesn't harm the battery or it goes into float mode. I would hope that it would notice that the current has reached a constant value and switch to float based on that, but if that's not what you see, then so be it. I tried to call Progressive Dynamics but they are closed. (As you say, just turning on a light is going to cause a non-constant current, so it probably stays at 13.6 all the time.)
I have also looked into the intel version of progressive. Pro gressive is the same except that they offer a 4 stage convertor for somewhere around 215.00 as a replacement. the 4th stage will engage every 4 hrs as needed at a higher voltage for the purpose of desolvation(I think I spelled that right) to the plates, I choose to add a POWERPLUS which is connected all the time which will do the same thing. but a person still needs to watch the levels. Progressive is the way to go, but I also added a 2nd fan as they have to help WFCO. Now saying that I'm still trying to isolate the loads for long term storage in my driveway hooked up to my 30 amp power supply homerunned to the camper........
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