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Old 11-27-2010, 08:08 AM   #11
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OK,

The Battery meter will read "Full Charge" whenever the camper voltage exceeds approx 13 volts. This is true regardless of what is providing the voltage.
Even the battery will read that if you check right after removing shore power until the camper draw reduces voltage below approx 13 volts.

The pigtail has 12 volt truck power direct to the battery on your TT. However to protect the camper's power circuits from short circuits; there is a current limiter between the battery/Tow Vehicle power and the camper. The round terminals on the wires could be corroded at that current limiter. Remove; sand; then replace them on the current limiter.

The individual fuse pigtails that got right to the battery (within 18 inches of the positive) are for high draw items like your front electric jack and any slides, if you have them. Those items will not be effected by a problem at the 30 amp current limiter.

Putting a DVM at the threads on the current limiter is not a good indication of current "pass through" at the wire. Put your DVM's test lead on the outbound WIRE or metal Terminal lug.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:08 AM   #12
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Kip have you checked the fuse (I think it is a 30 AMP) in the 12 V power line from your battery to the converter? Mine is located under the very front of the trailer. Follow the red wire from your battery to where it goes under the trailer that is where mine is. Call me if you don't get it figured & I will walk you thru it.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:32 AM   #13
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Ok Not to sure what to do Yes the 30 amp under the front on my trailer is green says 30 amp and is good.... don't see any other fuses corosion... my trailer was build later October and delivered in early November so corosion not too likely....

all works fine and slide when hooked to park power... not sure what dvm means

keep thinking......
thanks
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:45 AM   #14
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does the converter have a reset?

Is there a reset for the battery connect not sure what this is....

does it seem wierd that battery worked before pinch.. now rewired or put back together and nothing........
by the way the state park people are awesome.....
Camp host help use with lights on TT
park helpers brought air compressor so I could top off all my tires..... maybe a small leak but right now.....
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:57 AM   #15
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Kip, do you have a volt meter or any way to see if you have at least 13 volts at your converter when the shore power is turned off. To me a volt meter is a must have item.

Herk7769 what is a DVM ?
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:26 PM   #16
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AWESOME>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> everything is repaired......

the battery issue was a circut reset on a breaker under the TT..... a simple push in reset and wallah fixed

Ever in the Branson Area call Steves Mobile RV service 417 839 4957
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:03 PM   #17
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Answered the DVM question in a PM.

In the olden days of "sparks" we used VTVMs (Vacuum Tube Volt Meters). Tales From The Tone Lounge; The Incomplete Idiot's Guide To VTVM'S!
They cost upwards of $600 bucks in 1972.

Today we use Digital Volt Meters (DVMs). They are more accurate, and are sold everywhere for under 10 bucks. What inflation?
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotocrossCamper View Post
There should be no reason why pinching your trailer lights would affect your battery power for the camper..
Wrong. The trailer lights pigtail includes a battery lead.
If it were pinched to ground the trailer battery would
be shorted and most likely blow the fuse or circuit breaker.
I'm not familiar with this trailer so can't help in locating
that fuse/circuit breaker.
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:30 PM   #19
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Dan makes a valid point.



If the 12 volt wire (Pin 4 wire) is pinched to ground (pin1 wire) somewhere in the cable, an "auto-resetting" circuit breaker will never reset and a manual resetting one will not either.
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Old 11-27-2010, 03:57 PM   #20
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by the way, how did the pigtail get pinched/crimped?

was it due to a tight turn or what?
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