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Old 12-04-2015, 01:50 PM   #21
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Issues that I addressed when buying:

1. Ordered without stab jacks and added BAL's myself. Manual BAL's and a cordless drill is THE way to go on stabs.

2. Ordered with a manual tongue jack and installed a Barker VIP3500. No blown fuses.

Issues that I addressed that needed to be changed:

1. The tri-fold sofa actually had plastic straps- the kind you find going around cardboard boxes sometimes that are like 1/2" wide- supporting one of the cushions. First time any weight was placed on it the thing snapped. Who on Earth thought that was a good idea???? I took the cover off and installed a piece of 1/2" plywood using 10 screws. Would cost ~$8 and maybe an extra 5 minutes over using the flimsy strap things.

2. Replaced certain A/C vents with ones that close to direct airflow where needed. These are cheap, so why not just install them at the factory? Venting Products / AC Vents / "Jet Stream" #8850 Fully Adjustable Large RV AC Ceiling Vent - DW Inc.

3. Installed a dedicated heavy duty 15A plug on a dedicated circuit for running a space heater on. All other outlets were daisy-chained or had other components such as A/C or fridge on the same circuit, yet there was an open breaker slot readily available??? (Mine is a 50A trailer)

4. No wheel liners. A blowout would have ripped all into the floor. Also, slide seal was right at the back of the tire on one side and some water was being forced in when driving in rain. 1/4" custom aluminum wheel liners fixed this.

Design change I'd implement:

1. We have a door to the rear that goes into the bathroom and an outside kitchen. The awning doesn't cover these. If the OS kitchen door was only 3" narrower, a second awning could be installed to cover all of this area. Would be a great design change.

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Old 12-04-2015, 01:55 PM   #22
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How about locating the fuse and circuit breakers at eye level and in one location.

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Old 12-04-2015, 02:14 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by timerie View Post
My Rockwood has no light switch at the entry door. Need to enter, go up steps and find switch on the panel. I put in a wireless switch..
I used this sensor light to solve that particular problem:

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Old 12-04-2015, 02:18 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by timerie View Post
My Rockwood has no light switch at the entry door. Need to enter, go up steps and find switch on the panel. I put in a wireless switch. Also, heating ducts, one in bath, one in hall (where the thermostat is) then 2 in the remaining space. None in the bedroom!, I closed off the hall vent.
More details on the wireless switch, please?
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:26 PM   #25
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Our Coachman has a major design flaw. When traveling and the slides are in you cannot open the bathroom door. Have to open the rear outside door turn on water pump then go back outside open the front outside door to get into bathroom. Bathroom door hits slide floor. STUPID DESIGN

Also they have real nice wall switches for rear living area and bathroom but none in the bedroom and roof is higher in this trailer so wife has to get on bed to reach the ceiling lights to turn on and off.

Also the upgraded Liberty Edition comes with real nice LED lighted steps but on the rear door only. I guess they figure you don't need to use the front door at night.
Ed & Brenda
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Liberty Edition 297RLDS
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:37 PM   #26
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1. Radio mast mounted inches from the TV antenna so the TV antenna clangs as it rotates past the mast.
2. FW port installed immediately above the shore power port.
3. Light and slide switches installed at the perfect height for my 3 yr. old grandson to play with.
All in all, not much to complain about. I'd like an improved design for venting refrigerators in slide mounted models, but this isn't specific to just my camper.
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:40 PM   #27
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Can't find the one I purchased, but here is one on ebay for LED
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:49 PM   #28
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 79
How about the genuis that put the spare tire in the pass through compartment on the road side so your wrestling with it with semi trucks whizzing by about 5 feet from your backside.
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Old 12-04-2015, 03:42 PM   #29
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Quote: My pet peeve is simple. Design a bumper cap that doesn't fall off! Yes, I know it's a simple mod, but still.
Older RV'S had hinged metal bumper end caps with latches to keep them closed. Snap in plastic caps are a later design. Doesn't work as well but it's cheaper.
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Old 12-04-2015, 04:27 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by steveh326 View Post
first I will say that after our initial, serious quality/safety issues were resolved with our camper, it is mostly a joy to use. however, as the OP says, there are the little things that bug us

1) ceiling a/c vents non-adjustable... bathroom becomes an icebox when the a/c is running. I resolved this by making a 'restrictor plate' that fits inside the vent to block most of the a/c directed in the bathroom

2) no heat vent in the bathroom... freezing bathroom when spring/fall/winter camping. fixed by a small cube heater IF I have enough electricity to run it (i.e. not boondocking).

3) no stops on power tongue jack... if I run the button too long (up or down) and the jack bottoms out, it blows the fuse.

4) power stabilizers seem useless... these things flex like crazy and don't seem to stabilize much at all. it won't be a deal breaker, but I would prefer to have manual stabilizers on my next camper.

5) fridge temp fluctuates a LOT... my fridge could be anywhere from 25 to 45 without me ever touching the settings... why can't they have a digital controller that keeps it within a couple degrees of whatever temp I set

6) hot water heater as far from bathroom as physically possible... granted, it's under the kitchen sink (rear kitchen floorplan), but when taking a shower, etc. I need to run the water forever before I get hot water. no big deal if hooked to water/sewer, but it's a big deal when boondocking with limited water and no hookups.

7) cabinet door installed below fridge, open cabinet on top of fridge... same size cabinet... really, would it it have killed you to put the same door on top of the fridge as you installed under the fridge? add the $10 price of the door to the sticker if it bothers you that much !

8) wobbly kitchen table... I replaced the 2 posts with fancy locking ones and the table STILL wobbles like crazy. bump it just slightly and drinks get spilled constantly. I am working on some kind of brace on the wall under the window and against the underside of the table now to stabilize it... I think a simple 2x4 screwed to the wall would fix it but the wife would like a slightly more elegant solution...

as said in the beginning we love our camper now that the safety issues were addressed but there are those things that bug ya.

I wrapped both sides of both posts with som duct tape and it helps a little with the movement. Short of welding something to secure both posts together idk what else can be done.

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