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Old 04-23-2015, 08:51 PM   #11
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Are your LEDs RGB or signal color? I think the dimmer you show is for a signal color LED. There are different types of dimmers needed for RGB. LEDs dim by pulsing the power not reducing voltage as an incontinence light does.

The switch you show just breaks bower to the LEDs with the white apparent being hot as it jumps to both switches. (should verify with a volt meter). I would put the dimmer on the other side and not the 12v source side of the switch. Your dimmer is looking for both a power and ground connection to the LED.

Can you actually get to the wires feeding the LED Strips rather than the switch? That is where your dimmer is designed to go. Right at the end of the strip as if you were going to replace the LED Strip? If you need RGB I can advise just give me a PM.

I have installed both types in my coach.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:10 PM   #12
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Your pics aren't the best, but here's my take:

In your 2nd pic, I believe the white wire coming into the green terminal on the right is +12VDC. It appears that there's then a jumper to provide +12VDC to the switch on the left via the blue terminal. The brown wire at the other end of the switches seems to be similar, i.e., it feeds into one switch, with a jumper over to the other switch. Not sure why this would be, unless it's somehow supporting the lighting of the switches, i.e., it's supplying the -12VDC side of the switch lamps. That leaves the middle terminals (looks like white wire on one and yellow w/white on the other) that would go to the LED strips. The -12VDC of the LED strips should just tie in to ground somewhere; it doesn't need to come back to the switches.

Suggestion: Pull the green terminal with the white wires on the right switch. If nothing works, I would suspect that proves it's +12VDC to power everything. Put it back on and pull the green terminal with the brown wires on the right switch. If the LEDs still work, but the switches don't light up, then that would prove this is the negative side of the switch lights. Now pull the center terminals one at a time and if first one LED strip doesn't work and then the other one doesn't work (but the switch still lights up), that should prove the center terminals feed the LED's.

Note that I could be backwards about the white and brown wires, in that the brown wire could be the +12VDC and the white wire could be the -12VDC.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
incontinence light
I think you meant "incandescent." Incontinence is something else entirely!

Otherwise, I think we're both on basically the same track.
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:45 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
I think you meant "incandescent." Incontinence is something else entirely!

Otherwise, I think we're both on basically the same track.
I guess it depends if you grab the wrong wires and they are live

At least you got my meaning
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:12 AM   #15
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cdangel, just ran across your post and am following up on this. Did the dimmer work for your awning LED? I just found the exact same dimmer setup and am considering it. The factory awning lights on my Roo 183...although nice...are VERY bright.

Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2015, 03:11 PM   #16
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Sorry I've neglected this thread. The dimmer worked remarkably well outside.

I attached it to the wires running from the camper to the awning via the little plastic access panel.

Set the lights to the dimmest setting and put the remote in a drawer. Now when I flip the switch they are already dimmed and are at least bearable. (Still an ugly blue, but no longer blinding).
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