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Old 08-24-2015, 05:53 PM   #11
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As others have said I've seen them in my local CW. I just pulled my rounds out and put some Gorilla Tape in the inside covering half the vent. On the floor register I purchased magnetic vent covers from HD and cover the vents to control the air flow. Easily cut and just pull them up and store them. A good bit cheaper than replacing vents.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:12 AM   #12
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Funny... the DW vent says 'damper' but the pictures are of a damper-less kind (although that center hole would be where the control shaft for the damper would be).

In my 5er, all the floor vents are 2x10 (originally undampered but I replaced two with dampered ones on the upper level to get more airflow to the lower living area) but the one that vents into the storage is a round one with a damper. There is a knob in the center that tilts a damper behind the louvers. I always keep that one closed because its in the same space with the furnace, WH and other uninsulated ductwork so the space will be well heated anyway.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:48 PM   #13
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Both Lowe's and Home Depot carry RV/Mobile Home adjustable floor vent covers.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:22 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by CHICKDOE View Post
we had to turn our furnace on the last couple of nights and the heat output was not uniform to the various registers. our furnace is the wall between the bedroom and the bathroom. there is a round plastic louvered register in each wall. these can be rotated to point the output air in a different direction, but there is no adjustment to control the amount of output air. there are a few more of these throughout the trailer. there is a rectangular metal floor resister in the living room with no adjustments of any type. I have looked on line and can find a rectangular floor register with a damper to control to output volume. but I cannot find any round registers with the ability to control the output volume. the end result is the bedroom and especially the bathroom got almost all the hot air. do they make adjustable round registers that would allow you to adjust both the direction of the air flow and the volume of the air flow?
The round ones in the ceiling are for your AC, not heat. They are folly adjustable but may be tight. You can turn them to aim where they blow and the plastic veins can be opened up or shut to close them.

The ones on the floor are for your heater. Mine are not adjustable but I know you can get them at Lowes or Home Depot.

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Old 08-25-2015, 01:23 PM   #15
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Along the same lines. Not only replacing my std floor registers but I would like to replace the standard 4" heat ducts with insulated ducts... has anyone done the same??
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:44 PM   #16
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Along the same lines. Not only replacing my std floor registers but I would like to replace the standard 4" heat ducts with insulated ducts... has anyone done the same??
I have given it some thought but I think, if I were to do it, I would just wrap the duct work that is there. After I thought about it I decided neither was a good idea. The uninsulated ducts supply heat to the "basement" or under carriage area heating the floor, tanks and water lines. I decided the best thing to do would be to add insulation to the fiberglass bottom cover. This would trap heat under the trailer on days I decided to run the furnace.

Jim
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:27 PM   #17
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Frost King Heat and Air Deflector-HD7 - The Home Depot
http://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-HD5-.../dp/B00B844LSY

Was wondering if this would work somehow
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:44 PM   #18
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All they do is aim the air across the floor.

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Old 08-25-2015, 04:23 PM   #19
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I have given it some thought but I think, if I were to do it, I would just wrap the duct work that is there. After I thought about it I decided neither was a good idea. The uninsulated ducts supply heat to the "basement" or under carriage area heating the floor, tanks and water lines. I decided the best thing to do would be to add insulation to the fiberglass bottom cover. This would trap heat under the trailer on days I decided to run the furnace.

Jim
Yes, the 'leakage' through the ducts to the lower-level registers is part of the 'tank heater' system (the 12V pads are too small to do it by themselves when you get below a simple frosty night).

I did seal up the exposed upper-level duct work and boots accessible from the storage... no need for actual air leakage there.
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:31 PM   #20
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I cut cardboard rounds an put behind the round vents that weren't needed.
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