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Old 08-26-2015, 11:39 AM   #21
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to oldtool2 - thank you! i'm amazed how I missed this. as you said the ones for the a/c are fully adjustable. the ones for the heater are not. how did I miss this? it looks real simple to get some adjustable ones (they do exist) and replace the non adjustable heater vents. I have lived in the house for 35 years and am still learning things about it. the rv is no different, i am learning new things everyday!
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Old 08-26-2015, 01:41 PM   #22
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to oldtool2 - thank you! i'm amazed how I missed this. as you said the ones for the a/c are fully adjustable. the ones for the heater are not. how did I miss this? it looks real simple to get some adjustable ones (they do exist) and replace the non adjustable heater vents. I have lived in the house for 35 years and am still learning things about it. the rv is no different, i am learning new things everyday!
I want to caution you on one thing about the floor register. The furnace is designed with a sail switch that must make in order for the furnace to continue to run. You can redirect the air flow but do not block too much flow off. If you do the furnace will shut down. I think that is the reason they install fixed registers, so people don't close them down too much and cause a problem.

Jim
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Old 08-26-2015, 02:45 PM   #23
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to oldtool2 - your advice is appreciated. the intent would be to limit air flow from a couple of registers nearest the furnace and redirect it to those further away. I don't think this should affect the sail switch but I will keep the registers that I replace until I am sure! thanks again for this insight!
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:14 PM   #24
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to oldtool2 - your advice is appreciated. the intent would be to limit air flow from a couple of registers nearest the furnace and redirect it to those further away. I don't think this should affect the sail switch but I will keep the registers that I replace until I am sure! thanks again for this insight!
I have done HVAC for a living when I was working. Closing a register really will not do what you want. The correct way to do it is to put a damper at the plenum or the wye branch, that is the only way to redirect air. People will say well air will back up, trust me it will not give you what you want, it comes down to static pressure. As far as Rd. registers for walls. I have not seen any with a damper that would fit in a 2" wall. I have looked at CW, HD, Lowes and hart and cooley the biggest manufacture. You can by a sleeve with a damper in it that you would put at the plieum after you remove the duct, then you can balance the air flow in the unit without having a high limit problem or a sail switch problem. It dosn't take much air flow to operate a sail switch, your problem will come from the limit first. I hope this helps and sorry for such a long answer and post...
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Old 08-26-2015, 06:15 PM   #25
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I want to caution you on one thing about the floor register. The furnace is designed with a sail switch that must make in order for the furnace to continue to run. You can redirect the air flow but do not block too much flow off. If you do the furnace will shut down. I think that is the reason they install fixed registers, so people don't close them down too much and cause a problem.

Jim
Don't think this is correct, there are 2 different fans, the air flow for the registers is not the same one as for the sail switch.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:50 AM   #26
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Don't think this is correct, there are 2 different fans, the air flow for the registers is not the same one as for the sail switch.
This is not true there is one doubled shafted motor. It all has to do with the static pressure. That will slow your fan down. It is never wise to close any register off, but you can balance the system with dampers. That is the correct way to accomplish this...... You also have a double shafted motor in your A/C that supplies air over your Evap coil and also puts air through your Condenser coil.http://www.amazon.com/Suburban-23310...e+parts+motors....
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:58 AM   #27
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This is not true there is one doubled shafted motor. It all has to do with the static pressure. That will slow your fan down. It is never wise to close any register off, but you can balance the system with dampers. That is the correct way to accomplish this...... You also have a double shafted motor in your A/C that supplies air over your Evap coil and also puts air through your Condenser coil.Amazon.com: Suburban (233101) Furnace Motor: Automotive....
The fan doesn't know whether the register is partially closed or a damper is partially closed. In a direct drive blower with an induction motor restricting either the inlet or the outlet will decrease amperage, as both reduce the amount of work the blower wheel is able to do.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:04 AM   #28
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:45 AM   #29
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The fan doesn't know whether the register is partially closed or a damper is partially closed. In a direct drive blower with an induction motor restricting either the inlet or the outlet will decrease amperage, as both reduce the amount of work the blower wheel is able to do.
Sorry, but no. as you close down registers it increases the static pressure, If it was designed at lets say a 1/2" static to the fan curve by closing registers you are increasing the Static pressure which will slow down the speed on the curve. By putting adjustable dampers in at the plenum it will allow you to redirect the air flow to the area that is needed. but you would beable to keep the design pressure. By just closing a register it will not do what the op wants. If I put an CFM meter on the rest of the registers you would see what I'm talking about. The OP asked a question and I have given him the correct answer. It's up to him. I have designed 100's of system over 20 years......
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:10 AM   #30
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Evidently my furnace blower doesn't go by your rules because closing the register in the kitchen/lr or both increases the air flow outside the bedroom and the bathroom as well as the basement.
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