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Old 08-27-2015, 10:43 AM   #31
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Evidently my furnace blower doesn't go by your rules because closing the register in the kitchen/lr or both increases the air flow outside the bedroom and the bathroom as well as the basement.
Sorry, I forgot the "OLD COOT" way silly me.....:rofl black:
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:21 PM   #32
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Something like this (I didn't read all 4 pages of posts so forgive me if it was already posted)

JR Products ACG25DPW-A Polar White Adjustable Ceiling Vent with 0.25" Collar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095TEFNA..._Et13vbXCYWC68
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:17 AM   #33
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Something like this (I didn't read all 4 pages of posts so forgive me if it was already posted)

JR Products ACG25DPW-A Polar White Adjustable Ceiling Vent with 0.25" Collar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095TEFNA..._Et13vbXCYWC68
Ceiling vents are covered, Working on floor vents now. I opened up a can of worms on them, LOL!

It is getting interesting though.

Jim
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:19 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
Ceiling vents are covered, Working on floor vents now. I opened up a can of worms on them, LOL!

It is getting interesting though.

Jim
Be very careful closing off to many ducted a/c vents.
If your a/c doesn't flow enough air because vents are closed the a/c will freeze up.


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Old 08-28-2015, 11:24 AM   #35
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Evidently my furnace blower doesn't go by your rules because closing the register in the kitchen/lr or both increases the air flow outside the bedroom and the bathroom as well as the basement.
Yes, closing off some registers can increase airflow out of others. You can also cause a problem with the furnace. Depending on the sensitivity of the switch you can cause it to short cycle and shutdown. You can get away with it up to a certain point before you run into a problem though. A lot depends on the size of the ductwork you have which we have no control over.

Jim
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:31 AM   #36
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I have done HVAC for a living when I was working. Closing a register really will not do what you want. The correct way to do it is to put a damper at the plenum or the wye branch, that is the only way to redirect air. People will say well air will back up, trust me it will not give you what you want, it comes down to static pressure. As far as Rd. registers for walls. I have not seen any with a damper that would fit in a 2" wall. I have looked at CW, HD, Lowes and hart and cooley the biggest manufacture. You can by a sleeve with a damper in it that you would put at the plieum after you remove the duct, then you can balance the air flow in the unit without having a high limit problem or a sail switch problem. It dosn't take much air flow to operate a sail switch, your problem will come from the limit first. I hope this helps and sorry for such a long answer and post...
What you are stating is correct. I thought about mentioning it but decided against. You would be talking about a lot of work to do this in a trailer, more than it's worth in my opinion.

If putting adjustable floor vents in does not correct the problem is some forced way would be to put a small fan at the top of the steps. This would allow for better air circulation throughout the trailer without tearing the floor up or the underside of the trailer to put in a damper.

In my opinion what you are suggesting is more work than it is worth.

Jim
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:37 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
Yes, closing off some registers can increase airflow out of others. You can also cause a problem with the furnace. Depending on the sensitivity of the switch you can cause it to short cycle and shutdown. You can get away with it up to a certain point before you run into a problem though. A lot depends on the size of the ductwork you have which we have no control over.

Jim
Remember that all your FAU duct is either 4" rd or 2" rd only. A 4" duct can only produce about 60 cfm. I think without looking it up in the speck sheet the FAU can only produce around 300 CFM. Once you start closing vents off, you will run the risk of limit problems. If you are having a real problem like at the other end of the TT. You would be better off moving the duct to the end of the plenum. But remember the plenum is a mixing chamber. Your heat exchanger has hot and cooler spots in them. That's why it's not always wise to do. But with these systems your hands are pretty well tied on what you can get by with.....
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Old 08-28-2015, 12:09 PM   #38
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But with these systems your hands are pretty well tied on what you can get by with.....
Agreed. Everything you have mentioned is true and in my house where I can go down to the basement where I have access to the ducts it would be fairly easy to correct. In fact I did 20 years ago when I moved here.

In a trailer it is a whole new ball game. Where you need to get is not accessible, at least not easily.

So now it is time to try and become creative.

Jim
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:30 AM   #39
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The picture above is the ducts that are to the Bathroom and the vent just outside the bathroom door. SO much air coming out of both caused both those areas to get so much hotter than the rear living area. I removed the collars coming out of the furnace and blocked 1/2 the outlet with sheet metal.


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The image above is of the mod going to the ducts in the living area. I used 4" aluminum 90º ells from Home depot. Installed them on the collars coming off the furnace. I removed about 6' of the scrunched up flex duct the factory installed. The smooth radius of the aluminum ells and stretching out the flex allowed for much more air discharge at the floor registers in the rear living area. Getting more airflow from the living area vents than from the bath and hall vents now. A friend has a air velocity meter, going to try and borrow it from him to know how much air flow I have. I ran the furnace thru several cycles, sure seems even.

I did access the ductwork right at the furnace. The collars at the furnace are not screwed to the plenum, the way they are flanged they can be rotated to remove and replace. I removed the collars and installed a 2-1/2" x 6" piece of sheet metal on the inside of the plenum using sheet metal screws from the outside of the box blocking 1/2 of the 4" opening. I did this on the tap for the Bathroom and hall, really helped cut back the airflow to both those areas. I also removed the 4"X2" T that was feeding the vent in the basement.

By using the aluminum 90º ells and stretching out the flex duct allowed so much more airflow to the living area in the rear of the RV. Trying to move air through flex duct that is scrunched up and bent in a short radius creates a turbulence that restricts airflow.
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Old 10-13-2015, 11:00 AM   #40
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We have the same in our HIGH PRICE ROCKWOOD....
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