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Old 05-11-2019, 04:13 AM   #1
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Electric tongue lift contingency

If an electric tongue lift is no longer operational, is there a means to mechanically raise and lower the tongue for hitching?
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:17 AM   #2
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Yes, I believe they are located on top. There may be a latch or cover to flip open. Mine came with the bar too.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:28 AM   #3
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Most come with a tool or they have a nut you can use a wrench on.
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:00 AM   #4
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Mine came with a tool. Unfortunately, it was the wrong tool. Guess when I found out!
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Old 05-11-2019, 01:54 PM   #5
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tool to raise and lower

My coachman freedom xpress 192 rbs has a rubber patch on top of the jack covering a nut on top of the jack mechanism. The tool used to raise and lower the jack is the same tool used to raise and lower stabilizer jacks. I just fit the tool over the nut and crank. It's happened, thank God for the manual override.
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Old 05-11-2019, 02:54 PM   #6
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Some are under the round useless level Remove three screws.
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Old 05-11-2019, 03:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shirsteh View Post
If an electric tongue lift is no longer operational, is there a means to mechanically raise and lower the tongue for hitching?
shirsteh;
Yes, most TT's with an electric tongue jack have a manual override. Usually it is in the center of the top of the unit and appears to be a rubber plug or under the bubble level. You should have a crank wrench supplied by the RV dealer, if not, once you have access to the bolt on the top of the jack, you can use a 3/8" ratchet with a short extension. A word of caution here... when using manual mode to raise or lower the TT, never try the switch while the crank or ratchet is engaged! If the motor should suddenly start, there is enough torque from the motor to break your arm when the tool starts spinning!

........... Swampy
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:04 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1 View Post
Some are under the round useless level Remove three screws.
My TT has the round useless level, give it 1/4 turn and it comes off. If I put it on the right way it reads accurate, if I turn it 180 degrees then put it on the bubble is completely outside the circle. It goes on easily either way.
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:36 PM   #9
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Mine had the nut on top, but made of plastic and very easily shatters! Guess when I found out.

Luckily it was a fuse that was all but still don't have a way to retract manually except bottle jack and a wrench to take off.
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Old 05-12-2019, 12:06 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by shirsteh View Post
If an electric tongue lift is no longer operational, is there a means to mechanically raise and lower the tongue for hitching?
Mine died today. I went to use the metal crank that also works the leve leveling jacks. It was nowhere near strong enough to turn the jack. Luckily a buddy had a super long breaker bar and a ratchet set. That worked for a few minutes until the mechanism inside the unit stripped or gave out or somehow failed, dropping the entire weight of the tongue back to the ground. There was no raising the jack at that point.
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Old 05-12-2019, 12:31 PM   #11
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Mine died today. I went to use the metal crank that also works the leve leveling jacks. It was nowhere near strong enough to turn the jack. Luckily a buddy had a super long breaker bar and a ratchet set. That worked for a few minutes until the mechanism inside the unit stripped or gave out or somehow failed, dropping the entire weight of the tongue back to the ground. There was no raising the jack at that point.
Yeah, those cranks are pretty wimpy. I use a Craftsman spark plug wrench on my stabilizer jacks and think it would work well if needed for a tongue jack failure.
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:03 PM   #12
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Sounds like the gears inside that tongue jack failed, not the motor? I carry a bottle jack and some wood blocking. It would do double duty for changing a flat or jacking up the frame in the front with a failed tongue jack.

You almost need a mini-tool kit for just about every possibility when on the road with a trailer or RV.
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:05 PM   #13
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I use a battery operated drill and socket when needed if power should fail. Quick and easy. Later RJD
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by dward51 View Post
Sounds like the gears inside that tongue jack failed, not the motor? I carry a bottle jack and some wood blocking. It would do double duty for changing a flat or jacking up the frame in the front with a failed tongue jack.

You almost need a mini-tool kit for just about every possibility when on the road with a trailer or RV.
For sure. The motor has been running slower and slower. And then the gears clearly gave out when we tried to manually crank it. It was pretty spectacular. I actually had a mini floor jack in the truck. Unfortunately, it was all the way at the front of the bed. I needed to open the tailgate to remove the bikes, scooters, grill and firewood that were all under my cap. But I couldn't get the tailgate open without disconnecting the trailer. And I couldn't disconnect the trailer without the floor jack. I will be finding a new place to store the jack.
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:13 PM   #15
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I use a battery operated drill and socket when needed if power should fail. Quick and easy. Later RJD
Yep. Tried that. Whatever had failed made the gears seize enough that my drill wouldn't budge it. Had to use an 18" breaker bar to turn the manual knob.
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:15 PM   #16
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For sure. The motor has been running slower and slower. And then the gears clearly gave out when we tried to manually crank it. It was pretty spectacular. I actually had a mini floor jack in the truck. Unfortunately, it was all the way at the front of the bed. I needed to open the tailgate to remove the bikes, scooters, grill and firewood that were all under my cap. But I couldn't get the tailgate open without disconnecting the trailer. And I couldn't disconnect the trailer without the floor jack. I will be finding a new place to store the jack.
Catch 22?
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:23 PM   #17
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Catch 22?
Exactly. Luckily we were staying within a half hour of the house. The roads home were all 45 MPH or less so I drug it home deadweight with no WDH bars attached (because I couldn't raise the hitch to connect).
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