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Old 07-03-2019, 09:37 PM   #1
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Enclosed underbelly Nailed on ?

I've never seen this, but I've only had one TT with an enclosed underbelly. A co -worker had a problem with his second Gray tank being empty after a weekend of use. He noticed underbelly sagging in the vicinity of the Gray tank. Pushed on it and water shot out the side of the covering. I told him to open the bottom and check connections to tank. The following Monday he told me the he pulled part of the belly cover off and found the pipe not even stuck in tank and he figures it never was connected as it's too tight to bend it back in the tank fitting. He did mention that he only had a few screws to remove and the rest was "NAILED" thru the frame with power nailer. Has anyone else seen or have their underbelly NAILED to the frame ???
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:10 AM   #2
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That's how they're attaching it now. It's a lot quicker installing it with a powder nailer, but it makes removing and reinstalling it more of a pain. Normally using a good pair of vise grips to grab the head and twisting them while prying them out usually works.
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:17 AM   #3
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Yes, my Forrest River 2019 Trailer Blazer 26th Toy Hauler has the underbelly nailed in place. I was totally amazed that the plastic coated cardboard was nailed, not screwed to the frame. The nails have a plastic head and are shot into the outer flange of the frame rail. They are made to not be removed and if you remove any of them, you need to replace them with sheet metal screws.

I found this out when I ran some 12 volt wires. If you remove the nails you need Self-Tapping Screws - #10 x 1" - Hex Washer Head and you should just get a box of them. Install with a 1/4" magnetic bit and a screw gun.
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:46 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
That's how they're attaching it now. It's a lot quicker installing it with a powder nailer, but it makes removing and reinstalling it more of a pain. Normally using a good pair of vise grips to grab the head and twisting them while prying them out usually works.
That's about what he did. Worked them out with Vise Grips. Since he couldn't maneuver the pipe back into the fitting on tank, he put the covering back up best he could, drove back home and dropped it off at a RV repair shop. So I guess the manufacturer's are going to try to make it harder for you to work on your RV yourself and force you to bring it in for repairs.
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Old 07-04-2019, 07:09 AM   #5
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So I guess the manufacturer's are going to try to make it harder for you to work on your RV yourself and force you to bring it in for repairs.
Come on.... that's pretty cynical.

They nail them on because it's faster and
reduces labor cost.

Mine is 4 years old and screwed on but they ran the LP lines on the bottom of(outside of) the coroplast so I'll have to remove a bunch of stuff if I ever wanted to take it off for an inspection.
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Old 07-04-2019, 07:15 AM   #6
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Come on.... that's pretty cynical.

They nail them on because it's faster and
reduces labor cost.

Mine is 4 years old and screwed on but they ran the LP lines on the bottom of(outside of) the coroplast so I'll have to remove a bunch of stuff if I ever wanted to take it off for an inspection.
But don't you think that looking at all those nails to pull out might deter you from wanting to do it yourself and you'd just take it in ?? I agree that it's probably way faster for them to install, but if they remove it, how do they replace it ?? Screws ??
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Old 07-04-2019, 08:12 AM   #7
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FR and others don't nail all their products, usually just the lower end lines because yes it is cheaper and faster. The higher end lines are screwed into stringers that run from one frame rail to the other which is the way mine is. A previous TT I had was nailed, I just broke off all the nails and put screws back in, no big deal.
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Old 07-04-2019, 08:19 AM   #8
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FR and others don't nail all their products, usually just the lower end lines because yes it is cheaper and faster. The higher end lines are screwed into stringers that run from one frame rail to the other which is the way mine is. A previous TT I had was nailed, I just broke off all the nails and put screws back in, no big deal.
Can't recall what brand his 5ver is...I'll ask Monday, but according to him it's mostly nails and there were only a few screws he could remove on the entire bottom.
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Old 07-04-2019, 09:08 AM   #9
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On mine if you “pick off” that orange rubbery piece you will find a 5/16” hex drive. Give that a few turns and it will loosen a bit and one can pry/pull them out. The only ones I did I just tapped them back in and they haven’t fell out yet.
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Old 07-04-2019, 09:13 AM   #10
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On mine if you “pick off” that orange rubbery piece you will find a 5/16” hex drive. Give that a few turns and it will loosen a bit and one can pry/pull them out. The only ones I did I just tapped them back in and they haven’t fell out yet.
He tried to put a few back in but he said they just fell back out. He'll either replace with screws or the RV repair shop will probably put screws back in.
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Old 07-04-2019, 02:45 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Greg2019 View Post
Yes, my Forrest River 2019 Trailer Blazer 26th Toy Hauler has the underbelly nailed in place. I was totally amazed that the plastic coated cardboard was nailed, not screwed to the frame. The nails have a plastic head and are shot into the outer flange of the frame rail. They are made to not be removed and if you remove any of them, you need to replace them with sheet metal screws.

I found this out when I ran some 12 volt wires. If you remove the nails you need Self-Tapping Screws - #10 x 1" - Hex Washer Head and you should just get a box of them. Install with a 1/4" magnetic bit and a screw gun.
Self tapping screws are best driven with an impact river. If you don't have one and you do much around the house, you'll NEVER be sorry you bought one.
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Old 07-04-2019, 03:10 PM   #12
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The self tapping screws are either #12 or #14. I replaced mine with #14 stainless and some 1 1/2" stainless fender washers to give more surface to hold the underbelly in place.

Whoever invented those power nails for trailer underbellys should be tared and feathered. They are a huge pain and every RV service tech I've talked to also hates them.
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:07 PM   #13
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I made a fancy puller, or more correctly a pusher, to remove mine but I found it was faster to push down on the nail with a piece of metal while spinning the nail with an impact driver.
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Old 07-07-2019, 08:29 AM   #14
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Self tapping screws are best driven with an impact river. If you don't have one and you do much around the house, you'll NEVER be sorry you bought one.
Impact driver not river. Proof reading is not my strong suit.
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