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Old 04-23-2016, 07:38 AM   #21
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As soon as you engage the tow/haul on the shifter the diesel brake is activated. You can disengage it with the switch on the dash, but I just let it do its thing. As far as cool down goes I wouldn't worry about it.
Sorry but that is incorrect. Starting with the 2015 MY there is now an independent exhaust brake buton and you need to activate it at each start up or the EB to work. What you are using with the T/H button is letting the tranny slow the truck down by the increase in RPMs however the EB button will close the Turbo Vanes causing the back pressure to hold the truck back.

Two totally different things and if towing, you want to push the EB button (indicator will light up on dash).

To the OP - You don't need to let your truck cool down. By the time you are almost at you destination, you have let it cool down enough by the slower mph not causing high Oil Temps or EGTs.
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:43 AM   #22
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For cool down at camp I usually leave the truck running while registering, this gives it time. When pulling off the road there is either parking lot or exit ramp at low speed which aids in cooling as well as a minute at full stop
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:45 AM   #23
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The question was about Fords, and I can't address that. But some are discussing this issue as it relates to Duramax and Cummins. There are also several issues being discused.

Cool Down:
Duramax Forum says to not worry about cool down......if the truck needs to cool down, you'll get a notification. If not, just shut it off, even in a regen.

Starting:
Northern climes are different. Here, the 'pigtail' glow plug indicator comes on rarely and for a short time, even in winter. For about half the year it never comes on.

Tow/haul:
As stated, the exhaust brake and the tow/haul are independent of each other. The manual even says, as has been reported, that they can work together. However, I can't wrap my head around why both would need to be on. How much downshifting is needed? Does it downshift even sooner with both on? This is going to require some experimentation, I think..........but it confuses me.
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Old 04-23-2016, 07:54 AM   #24
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Tow/haul:
As stated, the exhaust brake and the tow/haul are independent of each other. The manual even says, as has been reported, that they can work together. However, I can't wrap my head around why both would need to be on. How much downshifting is needed? Does it downshift even sooner with both on? This is going to require some experimentation, I think..........but it confuses me.
T/H changes the shifting points, allows for higher RPMs before changing gears. So when you go to slow down, instead of almost idling if you will rom 4th gear to 1st gear when applying the brake, it will keep the Torque Convertor engaged to allow the RPMs to help slow the truck.

Think of a manual transmission. IF you put it in neutral and use the brake to slow, the engine will idle (similar to trucks). If you downshift gear to gear, it will use rpms when you pop the clutch out to slow the vehicle.

The EB closes the turbo vanes and uses increased backpressure to slow the motor down independent of the T/H mode.

So I can go down a 7% grade with 13k behind me at 40mph with my EB and T/H modes on and the truck will hold the speed at about 3,500rpm without touching the brake.
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:00 AM   #25
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Sorry but that is incorrect. Starting with the 2015 MY there is now an independent exhaust brake buton and you need to activate it at each start up or the EB to work. What you are using with the T/H button is letting the tranny slow the truck down by the increase in RPMs however the EB button will close the Turbo Vanes causing the back pressure to hold the truck back.

Two totally different things and if towing, you want to push the EB button (indicator will light up on dash).

To the OP - You don't need to let your truck cool down. By the time you are almost at you destination, you have let it cool down enough by the slower mph not causing high Oil Temps or EGTs.
It is possible I was giving incorrect information when I purchased the vehicle. I will try to verify with the service manager at my next service visit. I did however ask specifically how it worked on this vehicle.

This is what the dealer stated, while in tow/haul the EB is automatically engaged with no dash lights visible. The only time the dash light will function is while using the dash button without being in TH mode.
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:01 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by blwnsmoke View Post
T/H changes the shifting points, allows for higher RPMs before changing gears. So when you go to slow down, instead of almost idling if you will rom 4th gear to 1st gear when applying the brake, it will keep the Torque Convertor engaged to allow the RPMs to help slow the truck.

Think of a manual transmission. IF you put it in neutral and use the brake to slow, the engine will idle (similar to trucks). If you downshift gear to gear, it will use rpms when you pop the clutch out to slow the vehicle.

The EB closes the turbo vanes and uses increased backpressure to slow the motor down independent of the T/H mode.

So I can go down a 7% grade with 13k behind me at 40mph with my EB and T/H modes on and the truck will hold the speed at about 3,500rpm without touching the brake.
I am NOT a gear head. Let me say that up front.

But......everything I read in manual and on Duramax forum says that the LML Duramax does not have a true engine brake at all.........just a transmission brake. The manual simply says both EB and TH can be engaged separately to enhance each other. The guys on the forum say that the EB (exhaust brake, not engine brake) downshifts, and the TH mode 'make the downshifting more aggressive'........which is all I could imagine it was doing.........

That may be enough, and it may be noticeable.........just haven't tried it under heavy load yet (don't have my trailer yet).

And I fear I've 'hijacked' a Ford discussion thread..........and I'm sorry. I thought it was a universal discussion but apparently it's not. My bad.
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:04 AM   #27
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I am NOT a gear head. Let me say that up front.

But......everything I read in manual and on Duramax forum says that the LML Duramax does not have a true engine brake at all.........just a transmission brake. The manual simply says both EB and TH can be engaged separately to enhance each other. The guys on the forum say that the EB (exhaust brake, not engine brake) downshifts, and the TH mode 'make the downshifting more aggressive'........which is all I could imagine it was doing.........

That may be enough, and it may be noticeable.........just haven't tried it under heavy load yet (don't have my trailer yet).

And I fear I've 'hijacked' a Ford discussion thread..........and I'm sorry. I thought it was a universal discussion but apparently it's not. My bad.
Ya, 2 different trucks being discussed.. my last Duramax was a 2005 so I can't speak for them.
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:07 AM   #28
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It is possible I was giving incorrect information when I purchased the vehicle. I will try to verify with the service manager at my next service visit. I did however ask specifically how it worked on this vehicle.

This is what the dealer stated, while in tow/haul the EB is automatically engaged with no dash lights visible. The only time the dash light will function is while using the dash button without being in TH mode.
The problem is that it was your dealer telling you this..

With the 11-14 MY trucks, there was no EB built in, only the T/H so maybe they are confusing hw it operates with the 15-16MY Trucks. When Ford changed the Turbo to the larger 37 Garrett Turbo, this allowed for EB functionality.

Both EB and TH are independent of each other. If you hit T/H, that light will illuminate. If you hit the EB button, that light will illuminate as well and you will have both on on our dash.

Next time you tow, try them both and you will see a much bigger improvement in braking without having to use the pedal.
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Old 04-23-2016, 09:32 AM   #29
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For cool down at camp I usually leave the truck running while registering, this gives it time. When pulling off the road there is either parking lot or exit ramp at low speed which aids in cooling as well as a minute at full stop

Same here.



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Old 04-23-2016, 09:52 AM   #30
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Cool it!

Just a comment. I have always allowed a cool down period after pulling any kind of tow, regardless of gas or diesel. How long, depends on ambient temps and how hard the pull, and how far from the pull I did when stopping....like after pulling a grade and hitting a rest stop at the top. I am one that whenever I stop, I pop the hood, do a walk around to check tires, equipment and such! Letting it run a few minutes before shutting it off. Let that time include the time it took to slow and pull off.

Warming up....usually start it up, let the oil pressure build up....usually 30-40 seconds, then just be gentle on the go pedal. By the time you hit the road, all should be good to go. Be easy for the first five miles or so and go.

While this is my first diesel, this worked on my gassers, that always had well over 200,000 miles before selling. Always in top shape upon sale time. I have several OTR trucker pals that confirm the tips work well for diesels too. They just never pop the hood. They also let the rigs run if they do not plan to stop longer than an hour or so. They say, it is the starts that are harshest on the engines, due to no oil pressure while starting and wear on the starter for the big engines. That period is when most engine wear occurs. However, with the fewer starting cycles typical of rv's, don't worry.
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