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Old 02-08-2015, 10:22 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the replies! I'm not playing on using it anytime some, I just want to make sure it works when / if I do ever need it. We bought it new, just have never operated it! So far, this looks to be at least a three beer project....lol!
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjones12 View Post
I really do not think you will hear the water pump when you switch it on. In every unit I've had, the pump operates "on demand." It will come on when you turn on a tap or flush the toilet. Maybe others are different, but that has been my experience.
When my system is completely drained as in the OP scenario and I fill the fresh water tank and flip the pump switch on, the pump starts and runs until the system is pressured up. Then it shuts off until a tap is opened or toilet is flushed.
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:13 PM   #13
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Does anyone ever do this procedure and bypass the hot water tank. My thought is that since the hot water tank only holds 6 gal of fresh water, will it be difficult to flush it enough to get rid of any residual bleach solution, and given the temperature that water reaches when heated, is it really necessary to sanitize the hot water tank. Seems like the same idea as avoiding putting RV antifreeze in the hot water tank?
No need to sanitize the hot water tank. Think about it. What survives at those temperatures. Leave it in bypass mode, do the prodecure recommended, and your good to go.
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:50 PM   #14
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There are actually quite a few different bacteria that survive and multiply at the temperature inside a water heater.
The standard temp setting for water heaters is 120 degrees and anaerobic bacteria (smelly water) thrive in water heaters at that temp. The worse case scenario is Legionella pneumophila which also thrive in 120 degree water.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:00 PM   #15
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Hmmmmm...I've heard the pro's and con's re sanitizing the WT also. I've heard that those systems with an anode rod "could" have a chem reaction (depending on your ratio of bleach to water) and screw it up. It makes sense that the heat within an operating WH would very much help to kill offending bacteria. When in storage you shud pull the rod anyway for complete drainage and then plug with screening to keep the bugs ( or...?) out. This "shud" drain it completely after it's bypassed during winterizing. Interesting thought to ponder tho and probably depends on your particular unit?
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:05 PM   #16
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Hate to act stupid bit how do you add the bleach solution to the tank as mine has a garden hose connection?
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:50 PM   #17
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The garden hose connection sounds like it could be the city water connection. If it actually is the connection for the fresh water tank you can pour the bleach into the hose then connect it and apply water.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:14 PM   #18
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Most of the openings into the water tank are at least BIG enough to insert at least a flex funnel so that one can add the DILUTED solution of necessary water&bleach, then hook up the hose and let it rip until full. Oh, it's ok...that's how we learn! ;]
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