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02-07-2015, 12:28 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Central, Fl.
Posts: 1,330
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First time water pump
We have never dry camped or used water without hookups. The weather here has been great (central Fl) and I've been out cleaning the pool deck and other yard stuff. My TT is sitting over there in its garage and I'm going to pull it out tomorrow.
Having never used the water pump, is it as easy as putting water in the fresh water tank (do I need to fill it) or just five gallons or so? Turn on the rocker switch for the pump, and open the valve(s) ? Will I hear the pump run when I turn it on ?
Anyway, back outside I go! Any info would be great.
Thank you, enjoy your day!
__________________
2018 Forester 3011DS (Purchased 04/26/17)
2010 Flagstaff 26 RLSS (Sold 05/16)
2012 Ford F-150 Ecoboost, Screw, H/D, 3.73
1930 lbs CCC
2014 Jeep Rubicon JK
Going where the weather suits my clothes.
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02-07-2015, 12:32 PM
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#2
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Done with this
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: KY
Posts: 698
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You need to sanitize the tank.
__________________
I'm a little too truthful, I guess.
Y'all have fun in "Fantasy Land".
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02-07-2015, 12:53 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Central, Fl.
Posts: 1,330
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I will do so! Charged battery, five gallons of water, pump switch on, good to go ? Will I, should I hear the water pump run when switch is turned on ??
__________________
2018 Forester 3011DS (Purchased 04/26/17)
2010 Flagstaff 26 RLSS (Sold 05/16)
2012 Ford F-150 Ecoboost, Screw, H/D, 3.73
1930 lbs CCC
2014 Jeep Rubicon JK
Going where the weather suits my clothes.
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02-07-2015, 01:15 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 230
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Let me help! Yes! You "should" hear the pump running unless they REALLY have it insulated, which I doubt! In my previous TT (now have a motorhome) which was an Airstream I could always hear it as now with the MH. So, not to worry. Sounds like you have the sequence correct. I did see the suggestion for sanitizing the water tank which always is a good idea. Call your local dealer, or Google it, for the correct bleach to water ratio. I think all you need is around a 1\20 amount bleach to the holding cap. in gallons of your tank. After a few hrs, then drain that and perhaps put about a gallon of white vinegar into the tank and fill all the way again with water. Let sit for an hour or two and pump it out. If you can drag the trailer around a bit to let both solutions slosh that probably would be more thorough. Always dilute the bleach , or vinegar, INTO a water-filled tank as you don't want to screw the pump up with straight chemical by chance,,,savvy? Good luck and have fun. Enjoy that weather down there...only about one more healthy month before I can "de-winterize" my Solera and get out! :[
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02-07-2015, 01:28 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta
Posts: 2,004
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Yes, you should hear the pump when you flip on the rocker switch.
This is the way I sanitize my system.
Use 1/4 cup of unscented household bleach for every 15 gals of water. Fill fresh water tank full with the bleach/water solution and then turn on each faucett individually until you get a stream of water. Leave solution sit for at least 3-4 hours then drain the fresh water tank and hot water tank. Refill fresh water tank with straight water and open each faucett again to get rid of bleach solution. Drain tank and water heater once more.
Then refill fresh tank and you are good to go.
__________________
2007 Surveyor SV230 - 200 Watts Solar/MPPT Controller - 220 AH Battery Bank (Two-GC2) - 600 watt PSW Inverter - (2) 2000 watt Inverter Generators - LED Lighting
2009 F150 - 5.4 Litre with Tow Package
Boon Docking 99% of the time.
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02-07-2015, 11:22 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boondocking
Yes, you should hear the pump when you flip on the rocker switch.
This is the way I sanitize my system.
Use 1/4 cup of unscented household bleach for every 15 gals of water. Fill fresh water tank full with the bleach/water solution and then turn on each faucett individually until you get a stream of water. Leave solution sit for at least 3-4 hours then drain the fresh water tank and hot water tank. Refill fresh water tank with straight water and open each faucett again to get rid of bleach solution. Drain tank and water heater once more.
Then refill fresh tank and you are good to go.
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Does anyone ever do this procedure and bypass the hot water tank. My thought is that since the hot water tank only holds 6 gal of fresh water, will it be difficult to flush it enough to get rid of any residual bleach solution, and given the temperature that water reaches when heated, is it really necessary to sanitize the hot water tank. Seems like the same idea as avoiding putting RV antifreeze in the hot water tank?
__________________
2016 Chevy Silverado 2500 Duramax
2016 Rockwood 8289WS, Diamond Pkg.
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02-08-2015, 01:53 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta
Posts: 2,004
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Once the HWT is drained and refilled with fresh water there is no residual bleach smell. It may not be necessary to sanitize the HWT seeing as a person does not drink the water from it, but some people have experienced smelly hot water from bacteria growth. I sanitize mine just so I never have to experience that issue.
__________________
2007 Surveyor SV230 - 200 Watts Solar/MPPT Controller - 220 AH Battery Bank (Two-GC2) - 600 watt PSW Inverter - (2) 2000 watt Inverter Generators - LED Lighting
2009 F150 - 5.4 Litre with Tow Package
Boon Docking 99% of the time.
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02-08-2015, 02:48 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,255
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Unless your are keeping your WH in "bypass" and don't plan on using it, you should sanitize it. You may not drink from it, but potentially harmful contaminates still pass through the same water fixtures as your cold. You risk cross contamination.
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02-08-2015, 08:56 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lexington, NC
Posts: 2,621
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I really do not think you will hear the water pump when you switch it on. In every unit I've had, the pump operates "on demand." It will come on when you turn on a tap or flush the toilet. Maybe others are different, but that has been my experience.
__________________
2018 Coachmen Apex 249 RBS
2010 Silverado LT 5.3 V8
The world is a great book, of which those who never stir from home
read only a page. - St. Augustine
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02-08-2015, 09:48 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Gaylord, MI
Posts: 161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjones12
I really do not think you will hear the water pump when you switch it on. In every unit I've had, the pump operates "on demand." It will come on when you turn on a tap or flush the toilet. Maybe others are different, but that has been my experience.
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X2.
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02-08-2015, 10:22 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Central, Fl.
Posts: 1,330
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Thanks for all the replies! I'm not playing on using it anytime some, I just want to make sure it works when / if I do ever need it. We bought it new, just have never operated it! So far, this looks to be at least a three beer project....lol!
__________________
2018 Forester 3011DS (Purchased 04/26/17)
2010 Flagstaff 26 RLSS (Sold 05/16)
2012 Ford F-150 Ecoboost, Screw, H/D, 3.73
1930 lbs CCC
2014 Jeep Rubicon JK
Going where the weather suits my clothes.
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02-08-2015, 12:05 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta
Posts: 2,004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjones12
I really do not think you will hear the water pump when you switch it on. In every unit I've had, the pump operates "on demand." It will come on when you turn on a tap or flush the toilet. Maybe others are different, but that has been my experience.
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When my system is completely drained as in the OP scenario and I fill the fresh water tank and flip the pump switch on, the pump starts and runs until the system is pressured up. Then it shuts off until a tap is opened or toilet is flushed.
__________________
2007 Surveyor SV230 - 200 Watts Solar/MPPT Controller - 220 AH Battery Bank (Two-GC2) - 600 watt PSW Inverter - (2) 2000 watt Inverter Generators - LED Lighting
2009 F150 - 5.4 Litre with Tow Package
Boon Docking 99% of the time.
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02-08-2015, 12:13 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WFD
Does anyone ever do this procedure and bypass the hot water tank. My thought is that since the hot water tank only holds 6 gal of fresh water, will it be difficult to flush it enough to get rid of any residual bleach solution, and given the temperature that water reaches when heated, is it really necessary to sanitize the hot water tank. Seems like the same idea as avoiding putting RV antifreeze in the hot water tank?
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No need to sanitize the hot water tank. Think about it. What survives at those temperatures. Leave it in bypass mode, do the prodecure recommended, and your good to go.
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02-08-2015, 12:50 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta
Posts: 2,004
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There are actually quite a few different bacteria that survive and multiply at the temperature inside a water heater.
The standard temp setting for water heaters is 120 degrees and anaerobic bacteria (smelly water) thrive in water heaters at that temp. The worse case scenario is Legionella pneumophila which also thrive in 120 degree water.
__________________
2007 Surveyor SV230 - 200 Watts Solar/MPPT Controller - 220 AH Battery Bank (Two-GC2) - 600 watt PSW Inverter - (2) 2000 watt Inverter Generators - LED Lighting
2009 F150 - 5.4 Litre with Tow Package
Boon Docking 99% of the time.
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02-08-2015, 08:00 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 230
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Hmmmmm...I've heard the pro's and con's re sanitizing the WT also. I've heard that those systems with an anode rod "could" have a chem reaction (depending on your ratio of bleach to water) and screw it up. It makes sense that the heat within an operating WH would very much help to kill offending bacteria. When in storage you shud pull the rod anyway for complete drainage and then plug with screening to keep the bugs ( or...?) out. This "shud" drain it completely after it's bypassed during winterizing. Interesting thought to ponder tho and probably depends on your particular unit?
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02-08-2015, 10:05 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 20
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Hate to act stupid bit how do you add the bleach solution to the tank as mine has a garden hose connection?
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02-08-2015, 11:50 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta
Posts: 2,004
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The garden hose connection sounds like it could be the city water connection. If it actually is the connection for the fresh water tank you can pour the bleach into the hose then connect it and apply water.
__________________
2007 Surveyor SV230 - 200 Watts Solar/MPPT Controller - 220 AH Battery Bank (Two-GC2) - 600 watt PSW Inverter - (2) 2000 watt Inverter Generators - LED Lighting
2009 F150 - 5.4 Litre with Tow Package
Boon Docking 99% of the time.
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02-09-2015, 01:14 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 230
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Most of the openings into the water tank are at least BIG enough to insert at least a flex funnel so that one can add the DILUTED solution of necessary water&bleach, then hook up the hose and let it rip until full. Oh, it's ok...that's how we learn! ;]
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