fridge operation

[dretired]

I thought the fridge should operate just with having the power cord plugged in (the one that comes out the back of the trailer.I turned the on button on and the check light came on after a while. i called a friend ,he said try turning onthe propane tank , light a burner on the stove to get air out of the line. then try the fridge on auto. It seems to be working fine but is it running on propane now or electricity ??

[tmmar]

It sounds like it is running on propane. There should be a switch on the front, top of the fridge that allows you to select the mode (electric or gas) that it will operate in.

[DF5.4]

The switch may say "Auto" too.

[dretired]

Yes, the fridge is working in Auto..

[DF5.4]

Did you try turning the propane off and see if the check light comes back on?

[Herk7769]

The fridge will ALWAYS work on 120VAC if it is plugged in; regardless of the availability of Propane if the "on/off - auto" switch is on.

The check light will ONLY come on if there is no AC AND there is 12VDC available; the fridge is calling for cold; and the propane fails to ignite to ignite. (Propane off; control board failure; control board fuse failure).

If both are available, the AC is Primary. The Propane will light and the fridge will stay cold IF you leave the bottle on and the campground power fails.

[jackhartjr]

It took me a while reading the instructions on the freezer door to 'get it' so to speak.
As I remember when you push the left button 'in' and the right button is in the 'out' position the light will say 'Auto' and you are running on electricity.
Then, when you push the right button 'in' the 'auto light goes out and it will try to go to propane. After three or four times trying to 'start' the flame...if it has not igited...then it stops trying and the 'Check' light comes on. You then have to put both buttons in the 'out' position and start over.
It sometimes take two or three times doing this to get it started on propane...not a problem. As your friend said....you are 'purging the gas from the lines when you do the lines by doing the burner thing.
I usually get mine running on propane for a day or so before a trip to get it cold, then run it on propane going down the road. And no I don't worry about turning it off as gas staions when I fuel. Then at the campground I simply put the right switch in the 'out' position so it is running on electricity again.
Jack

[08flagvlite]

My suburban fridge may be different, but it has two buttons; one is on/off, and the other is gas; on when out, off when in, and THEN the electric mode works. There is a light that illuminates when on, that says auto., and another light for check. I have had the outside control board fuse blow on the 120v AC side three times; my dealer said it was a bad ground connection on the board. Fixed now. Randy

[Herk7769]

Yes, you can "Force Gas" with the gas button. I neglected to mention that. If the "gas" button is "in", it will force gas ignition, regardless of AC power available.

If the gas is turned off at the bottle, you will get a "check" light, since the gas did not light.

Normal operation of the fridge is "Auto" - On "gas" - Off

That way it will default to AC if available and auto switch to gas if needed.

[dretired]

Thanks every body !!! For the help , next,( Probably Monday ) i will try and fire -up the furnace & hot water heater, which i already have 2 questions.. #1 How do you know ..when to replace the sacrifical anedode rod ,for the hot water tank ?? #2 Some hot weater tanks are both electric and gas .. How does one tell ,if you have one of these ,or Propane only ??

[Herk7769]

Some folks replace the anode rod every year regardless of condition as part of "de-winterizing.

Others, when the anode rod has about 50% of the material still on the steel wire. (My camp)

Others wait till its almost all gone.

Ac to the AC water heater. Look outside under the drop down cover and look in the lower left hand corner (if Dometic) for a small black rocker switch. It may or may not have a safety clip through it. If it does, it is AC capable.

Note: The Interior switch with the "ON" light is for water heat on Propane only. For faster water heat recovery you CAN use both.
Never run the water heater without water in it. ALWAYS turn the element off when you do not plan on using AC for water heat.

[dretired]

Thanks for the reply and info about the water heater anode and rocker switch.I will get another anode and have it for the 1/2 way replacement point. and look in the morning for that switch.. Thank you

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by dretired

Thanks for the reply and info about the water heater anode and rocker switch.I will get another anode and have it for the 1/2 way replacement point. and look in the morning for that switch.. Thank you

I would not buy it till you were ready to replace it. We have 2 years of heavy use on ours and have about 75% of the anode left.

[dretired]

Herk, I am glad you described the condition of you anode rod .. 2 years of heavy use... and still have 75% left... Mine is pitted all over and one spot , 2 inchs away from the thread at 50 % gone, Our trailer was a "Slightly Used " 1 year old at the time we found it. But maybe someone swiched rods at the dealer ???

[Herk7769]

Pitted all over and less diameter is normal use.
I am talking about the center wire exposure.

As long as there is material covering the central wire, the sacrificial anode is "Good". I don't wait till its all gone, (wire bare) because the last bits could fall off before you get around to looking at it again.

The wire starts appearing at the cap end and becomes more exposed from that direction.

[jackhartjr]

dretired, there are a lot of factors that cause the anode rod to 'go away'.
Jack

[MtnGuy]

Mine still has a lot of life left in it after 2 camping seasons.