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Old 09-09-2015, 07:17 AM   #1
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Good Battery, no power to RV

Just finished a two day trip in my 2016 Coachmen travel trailer. No problems on shore power, but when I unplugged, there was no power to the trailer. I took the battery in and it has a good charge. Any ideas?
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:23 AM   #2
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It's probably the Short-Stop (Circuit breaker) tripped and didn't reset. It's a common problem.

It's usually located near the battery under or behind the tongue. It looks like a small metal box with two bolts sticking out of it. Wires from the battery will be connected to it.
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:25 AM   #3
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Battery disconnect switch is in the correct position?
Reverse polarity fuses are OK?
Checked the reset-able breakers under the trailer?
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:31 AM   #4
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The mini circuit breaker close to battery area has a tiny button on the side of it. Try pressing it in and see what happens.
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:42 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllenH View Post
Just finished a two day trip in my 2016 Coachmen travel trailer. No problems on shore power, but when I unplugged, there was no power to the trailer. I took the battery in and it has a good charge. Any ideas?
When you say no power, is it just the 120 volt AC things, or 12 volt DC things.

Not knowing your level of expertise with RV's is the reason I asked. Nothing that works off of 120 volt AC power will operate when not connected to shore power. This will be anything plugged into an outlet, your microwave, your television, or your air conditioner.

Better explanation

http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformat...lectricity.asp
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:55 AM   #6
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If no power at all (no lights), as others have said, look to your overload current limiters.

They look like this and the one you are looking for is most likely below the frame near the umbilical box or for a 5th wheel (there are two) under the pin box umbilical and behind the battery box.
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Old 09-29-2015, 12:40 PM   #7
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Thanks everyone. I got to look into these options this weekend and found it was blown fuse. I replaced it and the battery worked just fine. Now, after a 3-day trip, when I unplugged shore power, there was no battery power again. I'm guessing it's the same fuse, though I haven't checked yet. So now my question is what would cause the fuse to blow when I disconnect from shore power?
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:22 PM   #8
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Did you run any high power equipment after unplugging from shore power (i.e. jacks, etc.)? If so, it could be a loose connection or bad device.
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:48 PM   #9
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Do you open the breaker on the pedestal when you connect and disconnect?

Hot plugging and unplugging causes arcing at the cord tips and high current loads in the converter.
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:51 PM   #10
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Not running anything but the fridge, clock and LP detector when I turned off shore power.
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:19 PM   #11
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My next thought is to (provided you are not adverse to working with electrics) open the metal umbilical box and examine the crimp connections.

Be aware there are A LOT of them jammed in that box. Perhaps you have a +12 volt wire strand outside the cap that intermittently hits the metal box or otherwise finds a ground.

That particular breaker's purpose is to prevent a short in the umbilical from damaging your battery and limit the charging current from the Tow Vehicle to the camper's battery.
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Old 09-30-2015, 05:31 AM   #12
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I have found that if I plug my TT into my truck while my truck is running, I will trip the circuit breaker every time.
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I have found that if I plug my TT into my truck while my truck is running, I will trip the circuit breaker every time.
If your battery was partially discharged and/or there was a big demand on the system 12 volts (like the heater or several lights - 921 bulbs draw 1.2 amps per bulb) this is certainly a potential outcome.

Additionally, since that current limiter is exposed to the elements, the terminals themselves can become corroded and have a high resistance that wastes current by converting it to heat. The hotter the device gets the lower the opening (trip) current.
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:25 AM   #14
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I found a loose connection on one of the terminals going to the landing gear that it caused high enough current draw that it would blow every time I'd operate it using the manual switch. So check all the connections for tightness and corrosion.
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