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Old 11-16-2015, 06:51 PM   #1
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GOOD battery still discharging- Cruise Lite

2015 Cruise Lite : A GOOD load tested (at the Exide factory) Interstate battery as good. They would not sell me another battery! Towing vehicle confirmed is sending current while towing. I pulled the fuses for the radio and the LP detector. The refrigerator is not on. The inverter brings the battery up OK. Disconnect shore power and the lights are dim in 48 hours. Even traveling (with all fuses back in place), the battery seems to be only 3/4, per the wall meter, after stopping after a few hours. I have owned a FAN, a Layton and a Shasta and camped since 1988. No trailer ever drained a battery like this. WHAT could possibly be doing this??????????
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:02 PM   #2
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You can pull each fuse one at a time and place an ammeter across the empty fuse slot. This should show the current flow at each one.

You don't have a 3 way power refrigerator do you??? I don't know if they still make those any more. I had one years ago and it was a power hog!!
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:34 PM   #3
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Newer RVs have more parasitic power drains than older ones.
You should install a battery disconnect switch.

And you have a CONVERTER, not an inverter.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:01 AM   #4
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Do the -missing fuse- ammeter test as I suggested in post 2!!
Possible drains are a light bulb in a forgotten place left on.
Do you have lights in the storage area?
Even a defective converter might drain when off shore power...
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:08 PM   #5
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May I suggest that you confirm for yourself what is going on with fully charged bvttery and a clamp on amp meter as follows.
REMOVE the battery from the trailer and charge it with a normal battery charger overnight. Then let it sit for a full 24 hours. Measure the voltage with a voltmeter and it should be 12.6 or 12.7 volts. If is is less than 12.4 Volts you have a loss of capacity. If it is 12.2 or less you have a battery on its' last legs.

If you get a good reading it is time to find out what is draining the battery. With the battery reinstalled...and a clamp meter... clamp on to any wires leading to the positive terminal of the battery one at a time (with everything in the coach turned off.) Suggest you try any small wires first as these are likely parasitic drain sources. If you see any current....that is a culprit. If not..move on to the big positive wires and look for any current. If you find some...start pulling fuses one at a time till the current disappears.
Here's a reasonably priced meter that will do all of the above accurately:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...55011&sr=8-143


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Old 11-17-2015, 05:57 PM   #6
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Clamp on ammeters work on AC or pulsating DC. They don't work on pure DC.
Many multimeters have amps ranges that will allow the fuseholder test I suggest.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushbunch View Post
! Towing vehicle confirmed is sending current while towing.this??????????

You don't say how much current. The wire gauge in most TV's is not large enough to eliminate a significant voltage drop. This will result in less than optimum battery charging while towing. Check the voltage at the Bargman and at the Battery when TV is running at higher RPM, I think you will be surprised at how low the voltage is.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:17 PM   #8
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Thats funny...I just measured my converter putting 16amps into my battery bank a few days ago. I also measured a .004 amp draw when everything was turned off. Here's the instruction manual from a similar Sears branded ac/dc clamp ammeter and apparently they've not heard about this either. http://c.shld.net/assets/own/03482369e.pdf
Perhaps you are remembering ac clamp meters which are widely used if HVaC & other 120V situations. ac/DC clamp meters in this price range are a relatively new development. From Fluke:

"
Clamp meters measure any combination of alternating and direct current. This includes static dc and charging dc as well as ac.Clamp meters measure dc current using Hall effect sensors. A Hall effect sensor, basically a kind ofmagnetometer, can sense the strength of an applied magnetic flux. Unlike a simple inductive sensor, the Hall effect sensor will work when the applied magnetic flux is static, not changing. It will work for alternating magneticfields as well.
A clamp meter contains a toroidal iron core that clamps together with a Hall effect chip in the gap between the two halves, so that the induced

magnetic flux from the current-carrying wire is channeled through it"
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
You don't say how much current. The wire gauge in most TV's is not large enough to eliminate a significant voltage drop. This will result in less than optimum battery charging while towing. Check the voltage at the Bargman and at the Battery when TV is running at higher RPM, I think you will be surprised at how low the voltage is.
+1 Yup...that's exactly why I wanted him to remove the battery and charge it on a regular charger. I suspect it's been murdered by undercharging and subsequent over depletion.
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
May I suggest that you confirm for yourself what is going on with fully charged bvttery and a clamp on amp meter as follows.
REMOVE the battery from the trailer and charge it with a normal battery charger overnight. Then let it sit for a full 24 hours. Measure the voltage with a voltmeter and it should be 12.6 or 12.7 volts. If is is less than 12.4 Volts you have a loss of capacity. If it is 12.2 or less you have a battery on its' last legs.

If you get a good reading it is time to find out what is draining the battery. With the battery reinstalled...and a clamp meter... clamp on to any wires leading to the positive terminal of the battery one at a time (with everything in the coach turned off.) Suggest you try any small wires first as these are likely parasitic drain sources. If you see any current....that is a culprit. If not..move on to the big positive wires and look for any current. If you find some...start pulling fuses one at a time till the current disappears.
Here's a reasonably priced meter that will do all of the above accurately:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...55011&sr=8-143


Pardon me but a fully charged battery should be 13+ volts. ALSO put a DIGITAL volt meter on the battery and just watch for voltage leak. That is see if the voltage drops noticeably. If your battery isn't holding a charge you will see the volt meter dropping. Set the meter to at least 2 decimal places and see if the voltage drops.
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