Help its cold!!! - Page 2

Harve · 12-15-2007, 12:04 AM

Opps - this is true for butane, but not likely if you are actually using propane. Butane vaporizes at about 32 degrees F, propane at about -40 degrees F.

LESLIEandVIC · 12-19-2007, 11:16 AM

Ahh it dont get quite that cold here (san diego)

But ok check this so i got it working then it stops working when i change to a full tank or switch over to a full tank.

It starts working when the tank is not quite full.

Is it a chance that the tanks could be too full for the heater to work?

Stove works and all but i donno its strange.

so its like this...... for the last 4 days it worked untill the tank was empty, i put a full tank in and its not working. What i will try is fill a tank only with 5 gals instead of 7 and see what happens. I will let you guys know.

Im still having trouble finding a mobile service tech =(.

aintgotnun · 12-19-2007, 12:11 PM

kinda sounds like my gas grill

when I put a new tank on and open the valve fast it doesn't work, pressure is really low

but I open the valve slowly it works

dunno, maybe something else to try?

greg

LESLIEandVIC · 12-19-2007, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aintgotnun

kinda sounds like my gas grill

when I put a new tank on and open the valve fast it doesn't work, pressure is really low

but I open the valve slowly it works

dunno, maybe something else to try?

greg

I will give that a try for sure,

Another thing, the starter is what does not work when its not working. Is there a sensor for the gas going in?

NDJollyMon · 12-19-2007, 01:26 PM

Is it possible that when you run the tank empty, it won't relight because the line has no propane? After a few attempts, does it relight after the new tank is installed?

I've always been told to open the cylinder valve VERY SLOWLY as well.

There should be a flame sensor that detects whether there is flame or not. It stops the flow of propane if it does not light right away.

Check out this furnace link:
http://www.rverscorner.com/furnace1.html

LESLIEandVIC · 12-19-2007, 01:38 PM

Il try that slow valve open and see if it changes anything.

I tried for about 2 hours last night taking the thing apart, trying and trying again. It does not work.

Im going to do a test today tho for sure. fill second tank 5 gal instead of the 7 and see if any changes and that will give me the answer to the thought. haha

welshman599 · 12-21-2007, 11:40 PM

Not an expert at all, but two things just in case.... are you opening your propane tank valves fully? They need to be. And how about your hot water heater... are you getting a good full flame from it when the furnace isn't working? The stove doesn't take much pressure to light and run quite well, while the furnace and water heater need a good full pressure to operate and won't fire well without proper pressure.

Just a couple of thoughts Vic... I hope you get it resolved soon.

rockwood06 · 12-22-2007, 10:51 PM

Vic, I am sorry to here that you are still having problems with your Heat, I didn't think It was going to go away on it's Owen. It doesnt matter whether the fuel thanks are at 7lbs or 5lbs, the heat should still work. Yes you should ALL WAYS open your tanks slowly and completely. Open the tanks slowly because you may damage your gas regulator just out side of the tanks. Now If I understand correctly, you said that the electronic starter will not make a clicking sound on a second try? then there is possibility that the transformer that generates the power for the electronic starter may be starting to show signs that it is getting weak or It may have been bad from the start. As far as the proper fuel pressure for the furnace there is a component called an orifice that is connected to the end of the fuel line inside of the furnace, this orifice has a set value to allow a certain amount of fuel in at a steady rate, and will not change unless it becomes clogged up with dirt then it will restrict fuel flow. I hope you find the problem soon. I am sorry you are so far away because I would be happy to come help you trouble shoot and get it straight.

welshman599 · 12-26-2007, 10:29 PM

Any update on the problem Vic?

DXSMac · 12-29-2007, 03:03 PM

Actually, I had that same problem in my sunseeker. Turns out it was the thermostat. Cost me $150 to replace the thermostat (I had a dealer do it).

Check the thermostat.

JJ

LESLIEandVIC · 01-10-2008, 02:24 PM

been a while haha, i finally found a mobile RV tech that comes out my direction and hes coming in today.

I will give an update on what was found when i find out more. Thanks for all the info.

welshman599 · 01-11-2008, 08:03 PM

Whew, thank goodness you replied Les... we figured you two froze to death in the harsh San Diego tundra. Looking forward to hearing the results.

rockwood06 · 01-14-2008, 04:47 AM

Yes, happy to hear from both of you. Can't wait to hear what the tech finds.

NDJollyMon · 01-14-2008, 11:44 PM

Hey Vic...it's -10 with a -26 wind chill here right now. Feeling any warmer?

j2detroit · 01-20-2008, 07:46 PM

We have got to be nuts -31 this morning at 6am high for the day -11 at around 3pm now its 7pm and -13 again damm gonna be cold going to work tommarow

LESLIEandVIC · 01-27-2008, 12:18 PM

heater is fixed!!

The mobile RV tech came in and replaced the circuit board I guess what ever controls the starter went out.
Apparently also the circuit board in the 2007+ suburban heaters have a brand new board that had to be ordered from the company.

but i got heat now!! thanks everyone.

rockwood06 · 01-28-2008, 05:30 AM

Vic, I am happy you both are warm now. There are many variables to trouble shooting heating and cooling systems. Depends on the size of the unit and it's application, about 90% of all problems are electrical, you happen to have a control problem, a component that went bad on the PC board. It's cheaper to replace the board then to replace the component.

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