help, no battery power to camper

[SOONERSALT]

so I took my 2014 XLR Hyperlite to Colorado for 10 days. I had no issues with dc power from the battery all week until I parked it at my sisters toward the end of my 10 day stay. The only thing I did differently was to pull the emergency cable to the unit, hoping to engage the brakes of the trailer after disconnecting the pickup. I had to park it on a significant grade and after scotching the wheels, I thought, engaging the brakes, might help. Prob a mistake. Anyway shortly after parking it, I noticed the propane detector blinking and then noticed no lights would come on. My battery tender was blinking red, and I assumed that meant very low voltage, so I ran the generator for several hours to charge, but no improvement. I took the 5 month old Interstate battery to a Interstate dealer, he verified voltage of 2, but would not trade the battery for a new one for me. So I bought a brand new battery and installed the emergency brake plug back in the trailer. All was good for the lights, but returning 4 hours later, everything was totally dead again. I ran my generator all night to charge, but no change and then drove home today (12 hours), still no batter power to my dc lights or anything. (the dc disconnect is in the active mode). So, any thoughts to what is going on. You think the charging system is bad. I just can't figure why the power is draining so quickly. Maybe something to do with my activating the emerge brake system. Help would be appreciated.

[raspivey]

Your breakaway activation killed your battery. As to why you have no power after four hours with a new battery...not sure. I wonder if you didn't get the breakaway cable seated well. That would have killed the new battery in short order and prevented it from charging. A completely dead battery wouldn't have enough power to drag your trailer brakes enough for you to notice it on the way home.

[SOONERSALT]

Is there any tricks or concerns when reseating these plugs I was hesitant to mess w this plug. Sure wish I had not.


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[raspivey]

Not really. Mine's a little hard to get to, but that's about it. You should just be able to make sure it's pushed all the way in. It should click in pretty obviously.

[RhoZeta]

Originally Posted by SOONERSALT

Is there any tricks or concerns when reseating these plugs I was hesitant to mess w this plug. Sure wish I had not.


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Should be straight forward push it back in and it resets. Check mine by pulling it out every few trips and doing a quick pull check, it always resets easily.
I would get a meter out and start probing downstream of the switch and see what is happening. Should be zero voltage coming out of it when plug is in.

[indybp57]

I've had mine in and out several times with no issues. When the brakes are active you can usually hear a slight humming if you are close to the wheels. I would disconnect the battery from the TT and see if it will charge back up. As far as charging from the TV I would check the fuse. Our Ram is fused at 10 amps and if we connect the TT with a dead battery the current draw is enough to pop it. Also I don't mean to lecture, but our owners manual says to not use the breakaway feature as a parking brake. Just say'in.

[wmtire]

You may have melted the breakaway switch internally, so it's not disengaging when the pin is reinserted. As others stated, the breakaway switch is for emergency use, and not long term. Good thing is, they are fairly cheap ($20), and easy to replace. No need to knock yourself up over this. It's one of those live and learn things.

Now, if something in the electric brakes has burned up from being constantly energized, is another matter.

http://www.tekonsha.com/products/bra...BvV||mfCHi!Bk=

"Completely sealed breakaway switches to automatically set trailer brakes in case of accidental trailer breakaway. Required by law in some states. Emergency use only, not to be used to lock brakes when parked or stored."

Here is a similar thread with a lot more details and pics:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...box-40303.html

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by SOONERSALT

so I took my 2014 XLR Hyperlite to Colorado for 10 days. I had no issues with dc power from the battery all week until I parked it at my sisters toward the end of my 10 day stay. The only thing I did differently was to pull the emergency cable to the unit, hoping to engage the brakes of the trailer after disconnecting the pickup. I had to park it on a significant grade and after scotching the wheels, I thought, engaging the brakes, might help. Prob a mistake. Anyway shortly after parking it, I noticed the propane detector blinking and then noticed no lights would come on. My battery tender was blinking red, and I assumed that meant very low voltage, so I ran the generator for several hours to charge, but no improvement. I took the 5 month old Interstate battery to a Interstate dealer, he verified voltage of 2, but would not trade the battery for a new one for me. So I bought a brand new battery and installed the emergency brake plug back in the trailer. All was good for the lights, but returning 4 hours later, everything was totally dead again. I ran my generator all night to charge, but no change and then drove home today (12 hours), still no batter power to my dc lights or anything. (the dc disconnect is in the active mode). So, any thoughts to what is going on. You think the charging system is bad. I just can't figure why the power is draining so quickly. Maybe something to do with my activating the emerge brake system. Help would be appreciated.

Soonersalt, just to check on something else (converter related), when you parked it at your sisters, did you plug into an electrical power source there? I notice you said you were using a generator, but wanted to make sure and also make sure you are using 120 volt from the generator if that is your only power source.

The reason I'm asking is to make sure you didn't possibly wrongly plug into a 240 volt outlet at her house, which would fry the converter (the converter is what converts 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC as well as recharges the battery).

You said you replaced the battery. Are you absolutely certain you hooked it back up correct? If you crossed the wires (even for a second), you most likely blow what is called the reverse polarity fuses to the converter (which remember powers the 12 volt stuff like lights, as well as recharges the battery when hooked to shore power). It is real common to cross the wires, since the black is the hot wire (and the white is negative) on many RV's. The wire color code is more similar to a house than a vehicle many times.

Also, when you say the DC disconnect is in the active mode, do you mean it's allowing power from the battery into the RV...or is is it cutting off power from the battery? If cutting off power, then the converter cannot charge the battery (the circuit is disconnected at the disconnect), or the generator unless you hook a battery charger directly to the battery.

There is a possibility, you have a few other things going on here....outside of the electric brakes breakaway switch.

[SOONERSALT]

thanks for all the input. The charger I was using was only a Battery Tender at the time then I went to my generator to see if it would charge. It was all 120 volt. and i did double check the connection to the battery. In this case my wires are red and black, making it simple to reconnect to the battery. So today and went a bought a quality battery charger and disconnected all travel trailer connections to the battery. Tomorrow ( after work) Ill reconnect and watch the draw. I may cut and join the leads of the box if it appears the big draw is coming. And for the deserved reprimand, Ill know not to do this again. While I had second thoughts of trying this, the thought of the trailer rolling down the hill through the neighborhood, overrode my thinking LOL. The scotches actually worked fine, but I was nervous about it. any my manual was about 800 miles away. Anyway thanks again I ll let you know what I find.

[JlpLhp]

I'd check my converter.



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[SOONERSALT]

So i bought a charger and put a full charge on the battery. Still no dc power. Checked inside fuses and breakers, nothing. Saw a fuse on the exterior, near the battery and it was blown, replaced and all appears ok. I have had a battery tender on it for two days and it is holding charge. Obviously the large draw is gone. I assume this fuse must have blown somewhere w the second battery and must have kept the battery from charging w the converter when the generator was running. Anyway all seems ok. Will not be messing w the emergency trailer brake again.


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[Davidceder]

Why would you keep your manual 800 miles away instead of on-board. Just ask'n!

[SOONERSALT]

I didnt really get a manual w mine Yes numerous books on particular equipment on the trailer, but nothing pertaining to this part of the trailer. There is not even a desciption of the different switches in the trailer. Has been a try it and see learning experience.


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