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Old 08-06-2016, 03:05 PM   #11
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Loose electrical connection will build you a fire. Start with a clean plug and receptacle and make sure the screw collar is not cross threaded and tight. Came close to building a fire on our boat years back, not fun.
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Old 08-06-2016, 03:28 PM   #12
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Already lots of input that bad connection leads to this kind of problem.

As some background... electricity follows rules: E = I * R and P = I * E.

So a 110V 30 Amp service at the limit is pulling 3300 Watts. I like to think of that as you power budget and the closer you get to it the more stressed out the system will be.

Now for the really scary part: if P = I * E and E = I * R then we can also say that P = I * I * R. So that 30 Amps turns into a 900x multiplier on ANY resistance in the circuit. What if you had 0.1 Ohms of resistance in a connection? That is 90 Watts of power dissipated as heat and the wires will work as radiators to carry heat away from the connection and into the air. Have you ever touched a 90 Watt light bulb? That can be a significant amount of heat. Also note this 90 Watts comes out of your power budget too so 3300 turned into 3210 Watts (and thus lowers the voltage to everything downstream in the circuit).

Note that wires are rated for max current based on how well they can lose the heat generated by the current flow. Putting lots of wires together in a bundle will reduce the max rating (or should...). Putting lots of wires together in one connection reduces the safety factor in the connection too.

When making electrical connections my preference is to use terminals which I can crimp and then solder. The solder serves to seal the connection against corrosion. For a high power wire nut connection... I would twist them up good and tight with plenty of bare wire length and then solder. I would use the wire nut merely as insulation.
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Old 08-06-2016, 03:35 PM   #13
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Nothing pessimistic about stating facts.

Its not as dangerous after I checked every electrical connection. Have you ever checked yours? especially the ones you can not see?
x2....That's not being pessimistic at all.....When I opened up my breaker panel I found they (Forest River) tightened the ground lugs so tight I couldn't back them off and one of the lugs actually cut the ground wire, yes it's a good idea to check your wiring.
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:38 PM   #14
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X2 to check wiring. When I first took out my present trailer, it blew the 30Amp incoming breaker, whenever I turned on the AC and hot water heater. The breaker kept getting hot. Each tome we took it out, it got worse. I also began noticing a slight smell of burning insulation. So, I unplugged the camper from the pedestal and took out the breaker. I immediately found the problem. The hot wire was just laying in the metal area, where it should have been connected with a lug. The wire was corroded already and the last 4 inches of insulation was charred. I went to Lowe's and picked up a new breaker, cut off the bad wire, inserted the wire, tightened the lug, hooked it back up, plugged it in, and it has been working wonderfully ever since.
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:56 PM   #15
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Nothing pessimistic about stating facts.

Its not as dangerous after I checked every electrical connection. Have you ever checked yours? especially the ones you can not see?
My only question to you if it is a manufacturing defect as you think, why did not it not show up for 3-4 years. They show their unit as being a 2013.

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Old 08-06-2016, 07:00 PM   #16
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This is what happens when you have a connection work loose. It shut down my progressive unit before a fire could start. This was an FNL fuse.
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:07 PM   #17
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My only question to you if it is a manufacturing defect as you think, why did not it not show up for 3-4 years. They show their unit as being a 2013.

Who knows why it took 3 or 4 years to show up, why does that matter? If the factory connection can work its way loose on a 3 year old trailer, its certainly a manufacturing defect. It should not be able to work its way loose for any reason in any amount of time. That's how electrical fires start and people are killed.

Oh but wait,.....maybe its the ever popular "component failure" that is not made by F.R. excuse? They did not make the OP's wire nuts or the wire itself.
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Old 08-06-2016, 09:29 PM   #18
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Who knows why it took 3 or 4 years to show up, why does that matter? If the factory connection can work its way loose on a 3 year old trailer, its certainly a manufacturing defect. It should not be able to work its way loose for any reason in any amount of time. That's how electrical fires start and people are killed.

Oh but wait,.....maybe its the ever popular "component failure" that is not made by F.R. excuse? They did not make the OP's wire nuts or the wire itself.
Guess we would be best served by bringing home our new MH/TT, completely disassembling it and then putting it back together making sure it's done properly. Sure can't depend on the QC folks on the assembly line.

But then again, I'm supposed to enjoy rebuilding what I paid all those dollars to buy.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:03 PM   #19
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I do a fair amount of electrical work during my working hours. My 2015 Georgetown had so many loose wires I would have refused the purchase had I known. There is no place in life for faulty electrical skills, I.E a good screwdriver, a strong wrist and the ability to understand "Electricity". Everyone should have their unit checked early on. If you need to ask some of the questions I see on the forum please get qualified help before attempting a FIX. Safety First. Just my 220 volts.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:42 PM   #20
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x2....That's not being pessimistic at all.....When I opened up my breaker panel I found they (Forest River) tightened the ground lugs so tight I couldn't back them off and one of the lugs actually cut the ground wire, yes it's a good idea to check your wiring.

A pessimist is just an optimist with more information.
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