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Old 08-07-2016, 12:49 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by KatanaPilot View Post
Guess we would be best served by bringing home our new MH/TT, completely disassembling it and then putting it back together making sure it's done properly. Sure can't depend on the QC folks on the assembly line.

But then again, I'm supposed to enjoy rebuilding what I paid all those dollars to buy.
Maybe not in a perfect world, but sometimes you have to take safety issues into your own hands, especially critical systems like electricity. The simple fact that people have discovered problems that can jeopardize your well being in the long term means that a little investigation on your own is time well spent.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:31 AM   #22
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Just wanted to get back and thank everyone for their feedback and comments. Day 3 now and we are plugging along fine. I'm keeping an eye on the wires and wire nuts and they are cool with AC and fridge running on the 110.
I point the finger at General RV for this one. Someone commented why the trailer is 3 years old and it's just now happening. It's because this happened after General replaced our shore cord last year and obviously left wire nuts loose. The combination of that and the heat from the AC unit issue we had earlier on the trip (compressor constantly trying to fire pulling tons of amps) melted everything is my guess.
Last year the other end of the shore cord melted from pulling 30amps in 114 degrees for 4 days straight.
Anyway, I guess this is another one of those we got lucky situations, having found this before we left the trailer for the day. Or we might have come back to the fire dept toasting smores over the coals.
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:10 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by JCamper View Post
I point the finger at General RV for this one. Someone commented why the trailer is 3 years old and it's just now happening. It's because this happened after General replaced our shore cord last year and obviously left wire nuts loose. The combination of that and the heat from the AC unit issue we had earlier on the trip (compressor constantly trying to fire pulling tons of amps) melted everything is my guess.
Last year the other end of the shore cord melted from pulling 30amps in 114 degrees for 4 days straight.
Thank You JCamper for reporting back on this thread, and letting everyone know that this problem was not due to the manufacturer.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:37 AM   #24
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I don't like the way an RV wire nut is designed, I don't think the traditional wire nut is designed to bounce down the road, here is how I think they should be designed, and should at least be used on high amp draw items like A/C and hot water heaters etc.

Just my thoughts
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:04 AM   #25
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I don't think the traditional wire nut is designed to bounce down the road,
Just my thoughts
Here is something to consider...bouncing down the road. It can cause problems. As a former electrician and electronics engineer, I don't trust a connection to just a twist of a wire nut. ALL of my wire splices are made by twisting the clean bare wires tightly together with a pair of pliers. Then, I trim the end so it is blunt (wire ends are together). Next the wire nut is twisted on and I add a bit more twist with the pliers for a good tight connection. As wires carry current, they will heat. Heat causes expansion, cooling causes contraction. A pair of wires side by side in a wire nut will do a lot of wiggling over time and can loosen. Screw terminals experience the same expansion and contraction plus the vibration of road travel. Things can loosen over time, but proper connections can help prevent or minimize that effect. While working as a contractor for the US Navy, I saw their preventative maintenance program in action. Once a year, they shut down buildings for PM. The electricians would remove breaker box covers and inspect for burnt wires and put a screwdriver on every screw to ensure they were all tight. And, this is on a building that does not travel down the road! I periodically do this on my own breaker panels in the house and the camper.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:45 AM   #26
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The question I have for the OP is was the wire nut connection there from the factory, and General RV left the connection loose when they replaced the cord?.......Or was some other type of connection there before and General RV replaced it with the wire nut connection? The third question is could you tell if the conductors were twisted together or were they relying on the wire nut to be the connection?

Its still a good idea to go over, or have someone who knows electrical if you do not, go over your electrical system. What was done to ours when it was installed by over tightening and stripping all the screws on the breakers and ground / neutral bars was an absolute joke.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:16 AM   #27
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Just curious here. I have been all around in and under my 2015 Prime Time Sanibel 5th wheel and there is not a wire nut any were to be found. All of the connections inside are covered crimp on type connectors, all most the same type as used by some electricians in homes. All of the outside connectors are Scot lock type with a grease type filling so as to limit corrosion. Of course not every part of Forest River may use the same type of connector. Also and maybe more important I have never seen a wire nut on the main AC power cable connection. That wire should run directly from the outside main AC power cable connector to the main fuse box (converter) with no splices. My way of saying that if the dealer used wire nuts to connect the cable this was a major error and they should be told about this. Just my two cents worth here.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:29 AM   #28
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J That wire should run directly from the outside main AC power cable connector to the main fuse box (converter) with no splices.
Not all trailers have a connectable/ removable shore power cord. What some have is a cable hatch that you pop open and pull the cord out. The cord stores inside a cavity on the inside of the wall and in a lot of cases they build a plywood box the cord piles into in a storage area. The correct way to make those connections from the flexible cord to the Romex is in inside a metal or plastic junction box with the conductors twisted. Then a crimp cap is used followed by a wire nut only for its insulation value, then they should also be taped.

But they should be done in a j box with box connectors so pulling the cable in and out does not put strain on or move the connection.

I hope you do not have 3M crimp connectors on your 120V AC wiring in your Sanibel? Rockwood has them everywhere on the 12V DC connections but all the 120V AC connections connect at devices. I don't even trust those crimp connectors for the 12VDC including the "supposed" weather proof ones used under the trailer. I replaced every one I could get to.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:58 AM   #29
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Might just be the answer to whatever the question was :-)

30 AMP Product -
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:59 AM   #30
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You are correct the 120v wiring is a direct run with no connections per the code. The crimp type connections are only used in the 12V circuits. The 3M scot lock connections are used by telephone companies now for many years with very good results so I have no problem with there use in a camper. Just wondering what you replaced your 12V connectors with? Short of soldering and heat shrinking each connection point I know of no better connection method.
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