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Old 08-07-2016, 08:17 AM   #31
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Y Just wondering what you replaced your 12V connectors with? Short of soldering and heat shrinking each connection point I know of no better connection method.
In the space behind the converter and behind the control panel near the door, I used distribution terminal blocks for the most part where I could fit and access them. Everywhere else I soldered and used heat shrink. The ones underneath were done with 3M adhesive lined waterproof tubing.

We had a Keystone Hybrid and one of the few problems we ever had with it was some of those damn crimp connectors.

A lot of times its probably the idiot doing the crimping, but once they're done you have no way to tell. On this Rockwood, I was able to pull a few wires out of some of them easily, so I know it would be a future issue.

Underneath was generally a joke. All the 12VDC wires run from A frame to rear including the brake wiring was attached to the frame with maybe 3 zip ties. There were wires not attached and hanging down for 6' at least. One tree branch or something on the road and there go's the lights, the brakes, and who knows what else.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:46 AM   #32
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I work in industrial construction and we regularly install a.c. and dc. Wiring on conveyor. To make connections we no longer use wire nuts. We use wego connections. Strip insert and snap. Much safer. Use on both a.c. and dc. When I find wire nuts in my trailer they are immediately replaced with a wego. You can find them at HD and Lowe's.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:40 AM   #33
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I work in industrial construction and we regularly install a.c. and dc. Wiring on conveyor. To make connections we no longer use wire nuts. We use wego connections. Strip insert and snap. Much safer. Use on both a.c. and dc. When I find wire nuts in my trailer they are immediately replaced with a wego. You can find them at HD and Lowe's.
Thanks for that information. I've been wondering what those little things are called. I couldn't find wego but did find wago.

What is the difference in the five colors they come in? I assume it has a relation to the wire size?
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:04 AM   #34
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Yep wago. Different colors are used in junction boxes or panels,Push ins. Mostly what I use are the lever lock gray and orange for replacing wire nuts.Much more secure.
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:56 AM   #35
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Hot Days and Cooling the Camper

The AC works really hard to cool things down after setting up on a real hot day. We find that running the Fantastic ceiling exhaust fan helps a lot by pushing out hot air near the ceiling while the cool air from the AC drops to the floor. After about 5-10 minutes of running both, we turn off the exhaust fan and turn on the regular ceiling fan to mix the room air up a bit. This works well for us and it takes a lot less time to cool the unit down.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:22 PM   #36
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Best way is to twist the bare wires together, solder and then twist on the wire nut and tape.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:56 PM   #37
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I did away with all the wire nuts in my unit......I soldered all the connections and then taped them up........The 7 wire connector from the TV is a prime example of this needed mod...check the white wires!!!! j
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:06 PM   #38
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Just curious here. I have been all around in and under my 2015 Prime Time Sanibel 5th wheel and there is not a wire nut any were to be found. All of the connections inside are covered crimp on type connectors, all most the same type as used by some electricians in homes. All of the outside connectors are Scot lock type with a grease type filling so as to limit corrosion. Of course not every part of Forest River may use the same type of connector. Also and maybe more important I have never seen a wire nut on the main AC power cable connection. That wire should run directly from the outside main AC power cable connector to the main fuse box (converter) with no splices. My way of saying that if the dealer used wire nuts to connect the cable this was a major error and they should be told about this. Just my two cents worth here.

X2. I was thinking the same....but this was prolly more work.


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Old 08-07-2016, 09:40 PM   #39
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Loose connection from factory...you're extremely lucky. Another fine example of fine craftsmanship and quality control. I was reading another thread recently where the trailer side Furrion connection melted down on a new Coachmen TT due to loose connections at its screw terminals.

I hope you reported this properly to the NHTSA? Eventually someone is going to be killed because they are evidently using workers who are either unqualified or just don't care, then the units are pushed out the door with no inspections / quality control. This is not an example of a bad component supplied by some vendor which is inconsequential regardless.

A unit getting shipped with plumbing leaks is one thing as I don't think anyone has ever drowned from one. Sending it out with loose or improper electrical connections is something entirely different. This kind of stuff is downright life threatening.

On our 2017 Roo I changed my converter guts to a Powermax Boondocker. While doing so I discovered all the 12V main connections and grounds were loose including the large gauge feeds from the battery. 12V DC can overheat or arc and cause fires also. The 120V AC connections at the circuit breakers were all over tightened to the point that they smashed the actual conductors flat. They used a square drive bit in a screw-gun to tighten the breaker lugs, and tightened the lugs to the point of stripping the square recess on the screw out. Now you can't get them loose should a breaker go bad but when they smashed the wire flatter than paper, all you have to do is move it a little and it will break right off. I had to redress the entire power center, both the AC and DC sides.

Since the same line worker usually does the same job over and over, day after day, you can bet the farm if one is done wrong, so is every other one.
I noticed the same thing when adding a transfer switch to my 2017 roo. All the bus bar screws were so over tightened, I couldn't get them out. Except for that one on the metal neutral bus that want tighten at all and just fell out.

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Old 08-08-2016, 07:46 AM   #40
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I noticed the same thing when adding a transfer switch to my 2017 roo. All the bus bar screws were so over tightened, I couldn't get them out. Except for that one on the metal neutral bus that want tighten at all and just fell out.

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Since I discovered the issue on our 2017 I have taken a look at the power center in half a dozen different Rockwood products, ranging from 2015 models to 2017, and every one had over tightened and stripped screws/lugs at breakers and ground/neutral bars to some extent.

I replaced both the ground and neutral bars along with all the breakers in ours....every single one was stripped but one breaker. It was about $25 total in parts as I had a few compatible breakers laying around.
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