How many WH electric elements...

[ryand]

So I'm on my 3rd electric water heater element over the last 2 seasons. I have about given up. Who else is a dumb idiot like me???


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[SidecarFlip]

The trick, if you want to call it that, to get long life out of a Cal-Rod heating element in an RV water heater is making sure at all times there is no air space in the tank.

[bikendan]

I still have the original one in my 2007 HTT.
Probably helps that we rarely camp with hookups so the WH runs on propane 90% of the time.

[SidecarFlip]

It's just like a residential electric HWH (we have one) and the Cal Rods stay submerged all the time so they last a long time. All it takes is a fraction of a second exposure to air and it's toast...

Great thing about an RV heater is you have the propane option. My residential HWH has no option except a cold shower and an unhappy wife.

[kcmusa]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

It's just like a residential electric HWH (we have one) and the Cal Rods stay submerged all the time so they last a long time. All it takes is a fraction of a second exposure to air and it's toast...

Great thing about an RV heater is you have the propane option. My residential HWH has no option except a cold shower and an unhappy wife.

So you saying when I winterize, and remove the rod, I am hurting it.
I am on my second season, so far so good.

[dmchapman]

Originally Posted by ryand

So I'm on my 3rd electric water heater element over the last 2 seasons. I have about given up. Who else is a dumb idiot like me???


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I might suggest a large red hang tag on the access door (or electric panel if the ON/Off is inside) indicating the element is turned on, to remind you to turn it off when packing to leave. This in addition to staring the water pump or city service and burping the tank before firing it up or plugging in the shore power. This is what some folks do to remind them to retract the television antenna when packing, also.

[fella10]

Originally Posted by dmchapman

I might suggest a large red hang tag on the access door (or electric panel if the ON/Off is inside) indicating the element is turned on, to remind you to turn it off when packing to leave. This in addition to staring the water pump or city service and burping the tank before firing it up or plugging in the shore power. This is what some folks do to remind them to retract the television antenna when packing, also.

the tag is always there to remind me, I attached it to the end of my power cord..... when I'm un-hooking it's there to remind me(if I haven't thought of it before then) to open the outside door and flip off the rocker switch,

[bikendan]

A simple paper Departure check list by the door is what we use.
Check the WH electric switch is on the list.

[KMP44]

Originally Posted by kcmusa

So you saying when I winterize, and remove the rod, I am hurting it.
I am on my second season, so far so good.

No - assuming the power switch is off. If the element is on and exposed to air it will burn out.

No harm in pulling it when the power is off. And with the Suburban water heaters pulling the anode is the only way to drain it for winter.

[fonzie]

Use a check list or put a tag on the end of your power supply cord label "water heater off?" ......

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

It's just like a residential electric HWH (we have one) and the Cal Rods stay submerged all the time so they last a long time. All it takes is a fraction of a second exposure to air and it's toast...

Great thing about an RV heater is you have the propane option. My residential HWH has no option except a cold shower and an unhappy wife.

Originally Posted by kcmusa

So you saying when I winterize, and remove the rod, I am hurting it.
I am on my second season, so far so good.

I think there is just a hair confusion here with the terminology. When SidecarFlip said CalRod (it's a type of heating element) and should not be confused with the anode rod...even though both had "rod" in their name.

SCF is talking about not having the "electric heating element" exposed to air ONLY when it's energized....... and this has nothing to do with your anode rod, that you remove to drain the tank. Two separate things.

You actually want a small air pocket at the very top of your water heater (but this is good distance away from either your electric heating element or anode rod).

As per Suburbans website:

http://www.airxcel.com/suburban/service-support/faqs#

You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater's pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping does not mean that the P&T valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational vehicle is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P&T valve, the valve will relieve the excess pressure.

One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design - however, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket:

1. Turn off the water heater.
2. Turn off the cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out the handle of the pressure relief (P&T) valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release the handle on the P&T valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close the faucet and turn on the cold water supply. As the tank fills, the air pocket will develop. Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping P&T valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to have your dealer install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion.

[Jim in Halifax]

I always turn off rocker switch when I disconnect the water hose.......I never drain the HW tank during camping season...The only time you can really burn out the heating element is at the beginning and end of the season and the tank is empty and switch is "ON"!!!!!

[ProfChuck]

My Windjammer has a circuit breaker labeled "water heater" on the breaker panel, in addition to the on/off switch on the heater itself. I flip that off as well before draining the tank for the winter (and only after filling it for the summer). It is a great double-check/reminder if you have to flip both switches.

[KyDan]

FWIW- changing the electric element is a PIA but not expensive.
Check your local Home Depot or Lowes before the RV parts desk.
You're looking for a 120V ac 1400 or 1500 watt screw in heater.
They are typically under $10 at the home store and could be in the
$30 range at a dealer.
I suppose there might be full timers with park model rigs that are 240 volt
so be SURE and check the old heater when you remove it. It's usually
stamped on there somewhere.
BE SURE AND UNPLUG YOUR RIG AND SHUT OFF THE 12V AND LP GAS when
attempting this repair!

[youroo]

Originally Posted by KMP44

No - assuming the power switch is off. If the element is on and exposed to air it will burn out.

No harm in pulling it when the power is off. And with the Suburban water heaters pulling the anode is the only way to drain it for winter.

Not really,some Members just open the LP drains and their W/H will Drain! Not the proper way to drain the W/H but they do it anyway! Youroo!!

[ProfChuck]

Amen to KyDan. You don't want to electrocute yourself doing a simple repair and replacement.

[SidecarFlip]

Originally Posted by kcmusa

So you saying when I winterize, and remove the rod, I am hurting it.
I am on my second season, so far so good.

I didn't say or imply that. When I said Cal Rod I meant the HWH resistance element, not the anode rod (on a Suburban heater). I believe Atwood Heaters don't have an anode rod.

2 different animals, sorry for the confusion. I'm use to calling a electric HWH resistance element a Cal Rod.