How much to install 2nd AC?

SecretSquirrel · 07-13-2017, 06:35 PM

Have a new Crusader 5th. Already prepped for 2nd AC. In this 100degree heat the single 15k unit isn't cooling below 85. As the unit is already prepped about how much should I expect to pay for installation at Camping World?

raspivey · 07-13-2017, 06:41 PM

I'd find a shop that isn't Camping World, but where I'm at it's about $700-ish installed.

arpipeliner · 07-13-2017, 07:52 PM

Camping world gave me a quote of 1200 to 1300 for penguin 13 K. I put a 15 K for about $800. Took an hour maybe.

Skyliner · 07-13-2017, 09:31 PM

Expect pay 50% more for the job at camping world, expect it to take 2-3 times longer than they quoted you, and expect the job to be done shoddily.

Friends don't let friends use camping world. What were you thinking?

CaptnJohn · 07-14-2017, 01:01 PM

I paid $900 for a 15K ducted installed in the bedroom at CW. Including installing a separate thermostat.

Walholler · 07-14-2017, 01:37 PM

Go on YouTube and look for RV rooftop air conditioner installation. The are some good videos there that explains in detail how to install a AC unit. It is a very simple task, especially if it is prewired. I ordered a new 15K Dometic from Ebay for $549.00, it came with the ceiling control unit. I got the non ducted version. It came with free shipping and no tax. Dometic units come with a 2 year warranty free and you can purchase an additional 3 year warranty for around $165.00, which gives you 5 years of coverage.

Coolharts · 07-14-2017, 01:47 PM

I added a 13.5 unit to my rig, mounting it up top was the hardest part next to getting all of the sealer off where the vent was. A local farmer lifted it with his tractor for me.

Wiring is a bit tricky, make sure you order the parts for a ducted or not ducted system, I did ducted and added a thermostat, mine was prewired for it. The DC voltage ran off of the lighting circuit, A/C was not a problem from the junction box, I used some stock romex from the A/C to the box as not to stretch the wires. I bought some pink insulation and duct tape to seal any gaps.

My 13,500 and 15,000 work great together. When watching TV the 13,500 runs over the bedroom, at night the 15,000 is on to keep the bedroom quiet. During the day both run and the camper stays nice and cool.

whj77372 · 07-14-2017, 01:59 PM

A non ducked unit in the bedroom may be nosy. They are on or off and I didn't like the one that I had. I now have both ducked together each with their own thermostat.

CaptnJohn · 07-14-2017, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coolharts

I added a 13.5 unit to my rig, mounting it up top was the hardest part next to getting all of the sealer off where the vent was. A local farmer lifted it with his tractor for me.

Or a contractor with a LULL. No room at the marina so could not use their lifts. Since these old bones would take too long to heal and the old back was already broke once it seemed best to have CW do it.

SecretSquirrel · 07-14-2017, 04:41 PM

Thanks everyone for the answers! The new Crusader says it already prepped for a bedroom unit. The existing unit is a 15k ducted. When they say "prepped" would that include ducting this one too or would it just cool the bedroom? Myself, I don't think this 15K unit is working right. My 30ft Jayco TT had a 13.5 central/ducted unit and it cooled the trailer just fine in this same heat. I realize this unit has more "head room" but it's also a 1.5K larger AC.

CaptnJohn · 07-14-2017, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SecretSquirrel

Thanks everyone for the answers! The new Crusader says it already prepped for a bedroom unit. The existing unit is a 15k ducted. When they say "prepped" would that include ducting this one too or would it just cool the bedroom? Myself, I don't think this 15K unit is working right. My 30ft Jayco TT had a 13.5 central/ducted unit and it cooled the trailer just fine in this same heat. I realize this unit has more "head room" but it's also a 1.5K larger AC.

Most stating prepped means wired and has enough support for an additional NON-ducted unit. Really not that much difference in 1.5K but the extra space means a lot. Also, few campers are insulated well. My Montana states '4 season', 'full time', and 'tested to zero degrees'. The vented attic helps too but I'd not want to see how much propane used below freezing.

mrmurph · 07-14-2017, 05:31 PM

We have a 15k unit in our 333RETS and the bedroom is prepped for the second AC. We just came off 9 nights in 95 degree, 80 percent humidity weather. If we had not been in the shade, we would have been 80 degree inside. As it was, the unit didn't want to stop running. We had friends at the same campground that were in the sun and their AC's could not keep up. We will be adding the second AC unit to our camper.

wshelton1 · 07-14-2017, 10:41 PM

1 ducted AC in a Crusader cannot handle the heat load. I had a mechanic install a smaller non ducted unit in the pre wired bedroom roof vent. The good news is it cools the bedroom great. I paid 750.00 installed. The bad news is it gets too cold for such a small space. I think I would buy the ducted model next time. Still, 2 AC units are better than 1.

Coolharts · 07-17-2017, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrmurph

We have a 15k unit in our 333RETS and the bedroom is prepped for the second AC. We just came off 9 nights in 95 degree, 80 percent humidity weather. If we had not been in the shade, we would have been 80 degree inside. As it was, the unit didn't want to stop running. We had friends at the same campground that were in the sun and their AC's could not keep up. We will be adding the second AC unit to our camper.

You are right, our 15K could not keep up either, the 13.5 was the best decision we made for our camper. If you have any questions doing an install yourself on a 33RETS PM me.

Coolharts · 07-17-2017, 01:14 PM

MRMURPH had a question on what to buy and how to install an A/C in a 33RETS. I wanted to share with everybody, this is what I did:

I bought a matching Dometic 13.5 unit (looks like my 15K unit), controller/bolt kit, Dometic thermostat and a ducted frame.

Since you are prewired turn off the front a/c breaker.

You have to first remove the bedroom vent frame. Get on the roof and remove the sealer to get to the vent screws, remove the vent and clean the roof opening of the rest of the sealer.

Find someone with a tractor, fork lift or Bobcat and get the A/C on the roof (or be creative) it is about 100 lbs. Have a helper unbox the unit with you up there and set the unit into position, first verify the gasket is in position.

Below mount the ducted frame and align the frame to the bolt holes in the unit. Have the people on the roof carefully move unit while the bolts go into position. Once in place tighten bolts. You are done on the roof.

Inside the unit you will find a wire running down into the wall, there is a label on the wall next to the TV jacks telling you where the thermostat mounts. Drill a small hole in the wall and fish the wire out. Following the instructions hook up the thermostat. (If no instructions use the primary thermostat as a model.)

From a prior home project grab a leftover piece of 12 or 14 gauge romex about 2' -3' long and string it through the ceiling to the pre mounted electrical box. Do not stretch the wire in the box to the A/C unit, it is not long enough and could rub on something in the ceiling. Connect the wires together using wire nuts and securing the nuts with electrical tape.

That is your AC power and thermostat. Now your DC. See that white loop wire hanging that doesn't make any sense? That is your DC, and your bedroom light circuit. You will need to cut the wire and strip and pigtail the wires together.

For the controller. I don't remember the exact connections but the AC is clearly marked with ground. For the DC I used some automotive wire of a correct gauge and ran it over to the spliced wires, I pig tail connected the three wires together using wire nuts. You will have a total of 6 wires for the DC pigtailed with 2 wires from the pigtail to the controller harness. The thermostat has 3 wires. Mount the control box on the non ducted side of the unit (return side) and plug the harness connections in, making sure nothing rubs bare metal.

Now for the ducts. Go to the hardware store and buy duct tape (not duck tape). Connect the ducts and frame together and seal with the tape. I also bought a small roll of pink insulation to fill in the gaps in the ceiling.

Once complete turn on the power and test the unit. If it tests good, recheck bolt tension, put the ceiling cover up and go camping.

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