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12-07-2015, 01:27 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 138
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How to empty the hot water tank
We have a 2013 Rockwood 2608 ws and need some help on how to drain the hot water tank for storage tried to drain using bypass valve. The tank still won't empty. Can someone please tell me the steps to accomplish this task. Thanks
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12-07-2015, 01:33 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 11,069
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Hello and welcome to the forum. Make sure water us cool first. Go to the outside panel and remove it. (This will likely be a metal square panel on the side wall of your trailer) There will be an overflow valve to flip to bleed off the pressure. Once the pressure has bled off, then remove the drain plug/anode rod. Leave the overflow valve open while draining.
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2014 Sabre 34REQS-6
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12-07-2015, 01:35 AM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 11,069
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Also you will find lots useful info in our forum library
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2014 Crew Cab Chevy Silverado 3500 4wd Duramax/Allison
2014 Sabre 34REQS-6
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12-07-2015, 01:42 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 138
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You don't use bypass to empty tank? The only way to drain is to remove anode is this correct?
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12-07-2015, 01:46 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe-Barb
We have a 2013 Rockwood 2608 ws and need some help on how to drain the hot water tank for storage tried to drain using bypass valve. The tank still won't empty. Can someone please tell me the steps to accomplish this task. Thanks
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Not sure what you mean when you stated you tried to drain via the bypass valve, which cannot be accomplished. There may be some terminology confusion.
If you have either a Suburban or Atwood water heater, you drain them in similar fashion.
For the Suburban brand, you pull the anode rod, which drains the heater:
For the Atwood, you just remove the plastic/nylon drain plug:
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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12-07-2015, 01:50 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 138
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Thanks. Will remove anode to drain tank.
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12-07-2015, 01:51 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,933
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Now as far as bypass valves are concerned, these are usually located on the backside of the water heater, which you will have to gain access to from inside the RV. You may have to go thru a false cabinet, panel, etc to gain access. If you have the 3 valve system, then this is how you want them set, either for normal use or for winterization:
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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12-07-2015, 02:00 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,933
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One more thing, VERY IMPORTANT. You stated you have a Suburban brand. if you have the dual powered source one (propane and electric heating element)...make doubly sure you have the electric heating element switch turned off before draining. If it is on and you are hooked (or later connect) to any form of shore power, it will burn up the element without water in the tank.
This pic below is what you want to avoid. You can see how the anode rod is removed, yet the electric switch is in the on position. You need to make sure yours is OFF, if so equipped, just to avoid the possibility of burning the element up.
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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12-07-2015, 02:08 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 138
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Thanks for all the tips. And yes the electric switch is turned off
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12-07-2015, 02:10 AM
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#10
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 11,069
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Some rv's have the bypass valves on an outside storage compartment (they were locked away as wmtire described on my old zinger tt but are in my basement compartment on my sabre fiver). As he said, no you can't drain the tank by using the bypass valves. Also, if you are winterizing, make sure you drain your fresh water tank using the low point drains. Keep your water pump off while doing this do you don't burn the pump out (contrast me how I know that I've).
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2014 Crew Cab Chevy Silverado 3500 4wd Duramax/Allison
2014 Sabre 34REQS-6
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12-07-2015, 06:50 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe-Barb
We have a 2013 Rockwood 2608 ws and need some help on how to drain the hot water tank for storage tried to drain using bypass valve. The tank still won't empty. Can someone please tell me the steps to accomplish this task. Thanks
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Disconnect City Water feed,turn off Fresh Water Pump! Now Open a Hot and Cold Faucet,now remove the A-Rod pipe plug! After the Heater Tank has drained,NOW place the Bypass Valves in (Winter Location) and Open your H & C Low Point Drains,now Open ALL of your Faucets,Showers,Depress your Flush valve on Toilet,and Remove screen at City Water Entrance and Depress Small Check valve! Now you can (Blow the Lines and/or Pump RV Antifreeze thru your system! This Sequence Prevents Hot Water Tank White Crud from Leaving the Tank and Going Downstream to be found later in Faucets and Valves! Youroo!! PS Turn OFF Both Elect sources ( Switch behind O/S Door and also the Breaker at your Main Control Panel)! Better Safe than Sorry!
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12-07-2015, 12:58 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 593
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Also helps to open hot water faucet.
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12-07-2015, 05:50 PM
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#13
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Retired
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Sundeland, MA
Posts: 700
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Joe-Barb
wmtire has it peg.IF your Hotter Heater is like most of ours follow wmtire's thread. Great visuals.
asquared are those a pair of FRIESIANS?
Happy Trails
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2017 Columbus 340RK
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12-07-2015, 06:06 PM
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#14
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Georgia Rally Coordinator
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: GA
Posts: 24,474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asquared
Hello and welcome to the forum. Make sure water us cool first. Go to the outside panel and remove it. (This will likely be a metal square panel on the side wall of your trailer) There will be an overflow valve to flip to bleed off the pressure. Once the pressure has bled off, then remove the drain plug/anode rod. Leave the overflow valve open while draining.
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Make sure that the pressure switch is closed before removing anode and do not stand if front while removing as you will get a bath once you open pressure relive valve. Also complete draining of hot water tank will not occurr as I took a syringe with long flexible hose and drew out almost 3/4 gal of water. Later RJD
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Days camped 2019 62
Days camped 2020 49 days camped 2021-74 2022-40 days 2023 5 days
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12-08-2015, 10:35 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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If you have a storage compartment below the W/H,,,
Make sure the door is closed tight,,,
And make sure it is dry when you get done !!!
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12-08-2015, 11:29 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Midway, NC
Posts: 124
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I always seem to have a little water left in the tank after draining so I take a small siphon hose and get most of it out before I add just a little antifreeze to it.
It works for me.
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12-08-2015, 11:39 AM
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#17
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrinkard
I always seem to have a little water left in the tank after draining so I take a small siphon hose and get most of it out before I add just a little antifreeze to it.
It works for me.
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It's typically not recommended to put AF in your water heater. That's the whole point of the bypassing system.
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12-08-2015, 11:47 AM
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#18
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwritecode
It's typically not recommended to put AF in your water heater. That's the whole point of the bypassing system.
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^^X2^^
No need for antifreeze in the tank.
You've already drained and siphoned any remaining water in there.
Nothing to freeze, nothing that needs protected by antifreeze.
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12-08-2015, 12:22 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lexington, NC
Posts: 2,621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
^^X2^^
No need for antifreeze in the tank.
You've already drained and siphoned any remaining water in there.
Nothing to freeze, nothing that needs protected by antifreeze.
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Even if some remaining water in the tank DOES freeze, what's the harm as long as there is room for expansion? For many winters I have just drained the water heater, replaced the anode rod and forgot about it. Never a problem. If water has room to expand when it freezes, it won't hurt anything.
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read only a page. - St. Augustine
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12-08-2015, 01:23 PM
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#20
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjones12
Even if some remaining water in the tank DOES freeze, what's the harm as long as there is room for expansion? For many winters I have just drained the water heater, replaced the anode rod and forgot about it. Never a problem. If water has room to expand when it freezes, it won't hurt anything.
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No harm whatsoever.
Many folks don't siphon the remaining small amount of water from the tank after pulling the tank plug or anode rod. Just like you said, if that little bit of water freezes it won't hurt a thing. Same as if the dog's water bowl sits outside on a cold night, the water will freeze but not hurt the bowl. I believe most do siphon just to keep from having a small amount of stagnate water sitting in the tank for several months or to simply get it as clean as possible.
I was merely replying to the post where the guy said he drained, siphoned and then added a little antifreeze to the tank. No need for that.
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