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Old 11-03-2015, 08:40 AM   #11
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How to winterize: definitely NOT the facts.

60 psi is way too much pressure and will damage many trailer water systems. Half that will do the job without damage.

Dot
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Old 11-03-2015, 12:42 PM   #12
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If you have a cloths washer be sure to flowing the directions on winterizing it. Even if you don't have a washer installed be sure to winterizing the lines that would hook up to the washer also pour some anti freeze down the washer drain.

If you do you winterize then tow it to storage BE SURE to check the fresh drains and check them one more time for water. Mine a have 3/8 hose about 3 foot long from the fresh tank to the drain valve that was full of water after towing to storage.

Next tip that wasn't cover in the OPs post.
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:47 PM   #13
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I love my winterizing method. Put the toy hauler in the shop and set the thermostat in the shop to 50 degrees. Empty the hot water tank, open the low point drains, empty the fresh water tank and done.


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Old 11-04-2015, 07:33 PM   #14
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:52 PM   #15
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As long as one faucet is open there is no way you can put 30 PSI or even 60 PSI in the water system. I just use the air compressor and do not reduce the pressure for short bursts................ with a faucet open.......


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Old 11-04-2015, 07:59 PM   #16
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Forest River says do not exceed 30 psi. (Class C Motorhome Owner's Manual (09/14) p. 43.
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:41 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prestonj12 View Post
I love my winterizing method. Put the toy hauler in the shop and set the thermostat in the shop to 50 degrees. Empty the hot water tank, open the low point drains, empty the fresh water tank and done.


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thats called the 50 to 75 Grand method
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Old 11-05-2015, 08:19 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Forest River says do not exceed 30 psi. (Class C Motorhome Owner's Manual (09/14) p. 43.

This pressure refers to someone with an unregulated compressed air supply.

In real life most all water systems have a single control/safety device to regulate the system beyond the supply pressure. That of course is the heater relief valve normally set for 125psi. Usually that happens after the heater operates and no water is drawn from any tap. Most everyone has seen the valve drool or spitz for a short time, system pressure has been reached, the entire system @125 psi withstands the pressure. I.E. Is required to by plumbing codes. 30 psi is way too anemic.
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Old 11-05-2015, 08:46 AM   #19
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I went quite a few years never blowing out my lines, just sucking antifreeze through everything, so blowing out the lines isn't mandatory. (But you will discover that you will need about half as much antifreeze when you do blow the lines.)

The PSI of blowing out the lines isn't really a factor if you just open up a faucet before starting the compressor. Then, you just work your way around to all the fixtures. Letting the pressure build up without opening anything, of course, could cause problems. (Assuming you have a small compressor, 3 gallons or less...if you have a huge one then you will want to keep the pressure lower.)

Since some folks don't live in very cold areas, the best thing you can do is to ask your RV dealer what they do in the winter. If they don't winterize anything then you probably don't have to either. (RV dealers usually have a LOT of money sitting out on the lot so they won't risk freeze damage unless they are idiots.) Getting down to 30 degrees for a few hours at night isn't going to do any serious damage. (And remember that wind chill only effects humans...if it's 33 degrees but 15 with the wind chill it's only 33 on the pipes.)
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:33 AM   #20
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Quote:
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thats called the 50 to 75 Grand method

Thats also called the "Man, I hope I don't have a power failure while I am away" method as well.

Tim
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