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Old 11-01-2015, 03:12 PM   #1
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How to Winterize. The Facts

First, blow it out with compressed air at 60 psi after bypassing your water heater. Run each plumbing fixture until all you have is a sputter of damp air from each fixture. Drain you water heater. If it is a Suburban, remove the anode rod. If it is an Atwood, remove the drain plug. Drain your water heater and leave the plug or anode rod out. Next, open your low point drains and wait until it stops dripping. Replace the caps when the dripping has stopped. Now, fill your water lines with antifreeze. If you have an external uptatake, great, use that. If not, work out a way to get the antifreeze to fill your water lines or use the hose provided by Forest River at your water pump. Be sure to fill the city connection with antifreeze, as well as your outside shower. To fill the city water inlet, just push in on the check valve,until antifreeze comes out. To winterize your shower, turn on the hot and cold until antifreeze comes out of the head. Now, go to the toilet and run water until the antifreeze starts filling the bowl -- you are done with the toilet. If you feel that you haven't already dumped enough antifreeze into your sink traps and toilet, add some more. You are done.

If you have any other questions, post here or send me a PM. I will answer your questions.

Bruce
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Old 11-01-2015, 03:20 PM   #2
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What about the on board water filter?
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Old 11-01-2015, 03:28 PM   #3
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How to Winterize. The Facts

Ok many list on here already. Not everyone agrees with blowing out and adding antifreeze.
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Old 11-02-2015, 01:46 AM   #4
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Given that no guide I've seen or heard recommends 60 psi but not going over 40 psi due to the probability of damaging your water system. I'm just going to go with the lists I've already found on the topic.

There are plenty here in this forum already, in nice well formatted step by step form that have been reviewed by other users as well as noting optional items depending on your area.

I wouldn't have said anything, but 60 psi can wreck someone's plumbing depending on their rig. Especially since they're rated for 40 nominal, with a 50 margin.

You may get away with it in your rig, but the list isn't just for your rig.
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Old 11-02-2015, 01:30 PM   #5
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Take the water filter out. On our 2109s it was a pain so I left the cartdrige out and us an in line filter on the intake hose. A lot easier to winterize and those cartdriges are costly
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Old 11-02-2015, 01:36 PM   #6
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I take issue with calling this "the facts" there are many ways of winterizing that all seem to work equally as well.

I put it to each R/V owner to know the different methods and to choose for themselves how best to winterize. Some people (myself included) abhor the pink antifreeze in their water lines. Some people think blowing out the lines first is a waste of time, some think that if you don't do both, you are setting yourself up for disaster.

The best way of winterizing is to do what is required to prepare your trailer that freezing weather does not ruin your plumbing. How to get there is up to personal preference.

Tim
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Old 11-02-2015, 02:04 PM   #7
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If you have a frige with ice maker, what about that? Yes, I agree. There is more to winterizing then what nomad297 stated. Also, 60 psi air pressure is more then any other info I have ever seen.
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Old 11-02-2015, 03:52 PM   #8
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winterizing your rv

Hi all , most years I first drain all lines leaving the taps etc open , then attach the air hose to the city supply and give it a couple of blasts of 30 lbs , then I checked the lines and thats when I found that the water filter container with the filter in had also drained well almost about an inch in the bottom . with the pressure off it ,I could unscrew it and take the cartridge out ..... no mess or water leaks . in our 2650 its under the bed .worked great .
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checkmate99 View Post
If you have a frige with ice maker, what about that? Yes, I agree. There is more to winterizing then what nomad297 stated. Also, 60 psi air pressure is more then any other info I have ever seen.
That`s the problem with many of the posts...you have to take everything with a grain of salt and see what makes most sense to you. Just because one person on a post said so doesn`t make it necessarily so!
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:34 AM   #10
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We did ours last month
didnt blow out the lines whereas RV antifreeze is a "pusher" and will displace water in lines.

for those of you that do blow out air 30 psi is the recommended amount starting with all taps being turned off and opening each one individually withthe WH bypassed.

dont forget the check valve in the city water connection.
Mine failed and needs to be replaced.
You ask how i know it failed...???

Ask my wife who got hit with the pink fluid while i was inside.

"NOT FUNNY" was her 2 words after slapping the side of the trailer.
I had moments earlier taken my VA hearing aids out so as not to possibly damage them.

Sorry my love...

I didn't do it on purpose
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