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Old 08-04-2017, 08:33 PM   #21
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I have figured out that periodic draining of the water system at the low point drains does a pretty good job of draining the water heater if you open the vent thing and some faucets.

When my son and his bride visit (which is fairly regular) they like to stay in the camper. That runs fresh water though the system so we've never had a problem with "bad" water.
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Old 08-05-2017, 04:35 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by NMWildcat View Post
Before we retired, and our fiver sat unused for long periods, we only drained ours once a year for winterization. Never had a problem with smell, scale, or anything else and we live where it is HOT. So I think it's just personal preference. Personally, I think taking the drain plug/anode rod in/out all the time has more potential for problems
X2...............NEVER had a problem with smell in water even when left in for months at a time. I only drained it to winterize the camper
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Old 08-05-2017, 06:39 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Atwood brand tanks are made of aluminum.
Suburban are made of steel, hence the anode rod.
Thank you for the information. All of the RV's that I have owned have had Atwood water heaters in them. I just assumed that all water heaters were aluminum like the Atwood.
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Old 08-05-2017, 06:48 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by jimmoore13 View Post
I'm not sure that there's an advantage to draining it or even bypassing it.
The water heater by-pass is used when winterizing an RV. It isolates the water heater from the rest of the water system so that you don't fill the it with 6 gallons or more of anti freeze.
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Old 08-05-2017, 07:45 AM   #25
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I always drain WH and water lines if TT will sit for more than 2 weeks. Only takes a few minutes extra and never had odors. In all fairness I have an Atwood WH and have replaced the drain plug with a 1/4 turn drain valve so draining is as simple as turning the valve. The campgrounds we use most often all have well water. As a good test, fill an opaque container with water from the water system. place a top on the container and let it sit on in the sink in your RV for a few weeks. Open it and decide if you want to use that for your water needs.
That's why I use a water filtering system
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:09 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Radio View Post
I have figured out that periodic draining of the water system at the low point drains does a pretty good job of draining the water heater if you open the vent thing and some faucets.
.

I don't recommend doing this as the water draining from the WH through the cold water line will carry with it crud from the bottom of the tank. Many times the crud only flows part of the way through the system and stops. When the water system is charged again for normal use the crud is then pushed thru the lines to the spigot strainers and clogs them up. it is best to drain the WH itself before opening the LP drains.
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:12 AM   #27
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Fill it before an outing (usually a week at a time, work permitting) or two week vacation trip but drain upon return. You do need to pay attention when removing and replacing the catholic protection rod so as not to cross thread it. I also use Teflon tape on the threads. I have a thin cleaning wand that attaches to the water hose for jetting any scale accumulation out of the bottom of the heater.
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Old 08-05-2017, 01:58 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
I don't recommend doing this as the water draining from the WH through the cold water line will carry with it crud from the bottom of the tank. Many times the crud only flows part of the way through the system and stops. When the water system is charged again for normal use the crud is then pushed thru the lines to the spigot strainers and clogs them up. it is best to drain the WH itself before opening the LP drains.
X2
I believe this is where most faucet/toilet debris clogs come from.
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