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Old 07-08-2019, 08:36 PM   #1
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Leveling

Ok so I have a 29te gray wolf. I took a level to it. On the bumper, good.. mid floor good, trail hitch good. But the it door kitchen door and the door close to that are off. They require s little bit of force to close right. How can I fix this?
Thought about Over the Winter months when we finally closed the trailer up to remove all the bricks and just let it set back on the wheels and see how that works thoughts?
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Old 07-08-2019, 09:20 PM   #2
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Your frame is flexing. Mine does it (grey wolf 26dbh) from time to time when I am set up. I am sure I have a stab jack or a jack stand tighter than the others causing the twist. In my case I think a lot of it has to do with one side being higher than the other. While I try to feel the same pressure on the stabilizers it is next to impossible if they are different heights. The longer the travel on the stabilizer the easier it is to "lift" the frame as it takes less effort to turn to achieve the same results. I return to road travel conditions with weight back on the suspension and everything lines back up and doors close as normal.
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Old 07-09-2019, 09:13 AM   #3
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Your frame is flexing. Mine does it (grey wolf 26dbh) from time to time when I am set up. I am sure I have a stab jack or a jack stand tighter than the others causing the twist. In my case I think a lot of it has to do with one side being higher than the other. While I try to feel the same pressure on the stabilizers it is next to impossible if they are different heights. The longer the travel on the stabilizer the easier it is to "lift" the frame as it takes less effort to turn to achieve the same results. I return to road travel conditions with weight back on the suspension and everything lines back up and doors close as normal.
So what you're saying is go ahead and take it off the Smith blocks that I have it set up on because our trailer is at a campsite and that's where it's going to stay so if I take it off the cement blocks everything she'd settle back down is that correct?
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:16 AM   #4
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I agree with Procharger. You probably don't need to take it off the blocks just relax your stabilizers a bit. We found we were cranking them down with too much pressure and the entry door wouldn't close properly.
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:24 AM   #5
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Please excuse me for being ignorant but I think the stabilizers are the ones on all 4 corners which my trailer is actually up on concrete blocks. Any and all help is grateful thank you.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:12 PM   #6
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Yes you are correct. They support the corners and may be flexing the frame due to either to much downward pressure or uneven pressure. Try relaxing the pressure on them then try your door.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:17 PM   #7
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Yep, probably just have to change the pressure on one corner jack to fix the door fit. Problem is figuring out which corner
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:23 PM   #8
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He's said like 3 times that he's on blocks and not using the stabilizer jacks...


My suggestion would be getting underneath the trailer and putting a level on the frame itself to see if it's maybe off. If everything looks good, it's possible the doors weren't hung properly.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:51 PM   #9
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He's said like 3 times that he's on blocks and not using the stabilizer jacks...


My suggestion would be getting underneath the trailer and putting a level on the frame itself to see if it's maybe off. If everything looks good, it's possible the doors weren't hung properly.
Great, thank you. One last thing.
So the trailer is on blocks, and I am using the stability jacks as added support.
Now I will say that when I bought it 2 years ago.. new.. everything worked.
With that yes I will try Relieving some pressure off the stability jacks and seeing if the trailer stays level I appreciate any and all help on the matter thank you guys and gals.
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Old 07-09-2019, 02:08 PM   #10
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My TT is on a seasonal site year around and because of the blocks settling I have to make minor adjustments every 2 to 3 years. You may have to jack the tt up off all the blocks. Using a string and line levels make sure the tops of the blocks are all the same height.

The best, most solid way to build the pier is to use 2x 8x8x16 concrete blocks set side by side, if you need a second pair of blocks set them on top perpendicular to the first. Finish the top layer with solid blocks. Make sure the first block on the ground are solid without holes in them. Arrange the next block on top with the holes vertical like you are building a wall. Pics below are 2x8x16, 4x8x16 and 8x8x16 concrete blocks used to set up my TT. Make sure all blocks are set level. Have a pier in front and behind the axles and one at each corner. Be careful of LP pipes running along the frame.


You can find a mobile RV guy who sets up trailers and possibly get heavy duty wood wedges to use for minor shimming.
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:30 PM   #11
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My TT is on a seasonal site year around and because of the blocks settling I have to make minor adjustments every 2 to 3 years. You may have to jack the tt up off all the blocks. Using a string and line levels make sure the tops of the blocks are all the same height.

The best, most solid way to build the pier is to use 2x 8x8x16 concrete blocks set side by side, if you need a second pair of blocks set them on top perpendicular to the first. Finish the top layer with solid blocks. Make sure the first block on the ground are solid without holes in them. Arrange the next block on top with the holes vertical like you are building a wall. Pics below are 2x8x16, 4x8x16 and 8x8x16 concrete blocks used to set up my TT. Make sure all blocks are set level. Have a pier in front and behind the axles and one at each corner. Be careful of LP pipes running along the frame.


You can find a mobile RV guy who sets up trailers and possibly get heavy duty wood wedges to use for minor shimming.
Awesome, but will it for it self if I take it off the blocks and let it settle back? Or will it settle back by it self if I take it if blocks?
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:27 PM   #12
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In an RV, when you have a problem with your doors shutting, you must change something in the leveling (assuming the door hinges are good).
If I don't want to completely relevel, I will raise one jack/stabilizer at a time to see if it makes a difference. If your jacks /stabilizers are up, then put them down one at a time to see if it makes a difference. This will also tell you where you may need to add shims if you want to leave it on the blocks.
And yes, if you take your RV off the blocks and back on the tires, the doors should work properly again.
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:51 PM   #13
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Are your tires off the ground? My tires are on 4ft 2x6. 2 on passenger side, 1 on the drivers side. Unless your frame is bent once you get the top of the blocks level and at the same height everything should settle right in. Never use less than 6 piers, 8 piers are preferred. When I bought my latest TT the dealer had a crew deliver it to the site and level it side to side, front to back then set up the piers. Last summer I had to add another 2x6-4ft under the tires on the passenger side and use 4"x6" heavy duty hardwood shims on top the blocks.
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Old 07-09-2019, 08:13 PM   #14
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Are your tires off the ground? My tires are on 4ft 2x6. 2 on passenger side, 1 on the drivers side. Unless your frame is bent once you get the top of the blocks level and at the same height everything should settle right in. Never use less than 6 piers, 8 piers are preferred. When I bought my latest TT the dealer had a crew deliver it to the site and level it side to side, front to back then set up the piers. Last summer I had to add another 2x6-4ft under the tires on the passenger side and use 4"x6" heavy duty hardwood shims on top the blocks.
No tires are on the ground
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Old 07-09-2019, 08:37 PM   #15
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Though the attached pdf is the instructions for park models you can easily adapt them to trailers. You want to see pages 7 & 8.
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