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Old 02-27-2015, 05:30 PM   #21
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Call me lazy or weak but several shorter boards work too. Mostly 8" x 12" in dimensional 2"... But a few 1" by ( 8" x 12) in case 1-1/2" is too much. The Anderson lifts the tire a variable amount and / but might require plywood if the ground is soft. It would take mucho dollaro in those plastic blocks to bring one side up 8" let's say ( I've seen worse)... Then more for the stabs. Most sites aren't level. Still can't see why boards would be under tires on both sides..stabs yes of course.
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Old 02-28-2015, 10:49 AM   #22
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I had to put boards under both sides to raise the trailer to get it level from front to rear because of the slope(there was no other place to park the trailer without moving to another area about 3 miles away )I was the last one there and had no other choice.
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:15 AM   #23
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We usually bring 4 - 2"x8"x4'.. Depending on the site we may put one under one side and whatever it takes to level it up under the other side, if the ground is soft.. Otherwise just under the low side to make it as close to level as you can.. Corner jacks to stabilize, with 6x6 pwf post pieces under them (1 or 3 per corner - depending on height) and X-Blocks on both sides... Under the jack we either use one or 3 blocks again to keep our jack extended to a minimum length..
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:22 AM   #24
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I just cut up a sheet of 3/4" treated plywood into 1' squares. I use them for leveling , landing gear and jack support.


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Old 02-28-2015, 11:26 AM   #25
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Has anyone tried the Anderson levelers?
Yes. If your trailer has the torsion axles, the space between the tires prohibits the use of the Andersons unless you cut and trim a considerable amount off one of the levelers. I went back to my Lynx levelers and chalked the expense up to "oh well."
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:27 AM   #26
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I put a 2X6 under both sides to make sure trailer doesn't sink if we get a lot of rain also if it's out of level I keep a third 2X6 and a 1X6 to level usually the third 2X6 on the side that is low will make everything level. In my case I need the 2X6 to be 4 ft long to cover the area between tires and the third one is 5 ft so the tires go up a step. The x chocks and regular chocks on both sides. Steps have a support also. Found that hooking a ratchet strap between the lower area of the stabilizers once they are down helps get rid of some of the wiggle when you walk in the trailer (just snug don't over tighten the strap). Back to the boards all it usually will take is a piece under one tire to level but I like everything to spread the weight out evenly.
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:33 AM   #27
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Well I'm new at this and I know last year at one place I had to place some boards under both sides of my camper to get it right. And I would like to just use the leaving blocks I seen at camping world. That would be better than hauling around 3-4 boards 6foot or so long. Not every camping spot is level. I was told by my dealer the only way to leavel my camper is by putting stuff under the tires. Not to use jacks at all. I am going to use xchocks this year too. The guy beside me was camping for 15 years and said they tried to give him the spot I was in. But he has a lot of trouble with it the year before. So he didn't want it.
Correct. My buddy leveled his Weekend Warrior Superlite with the stabilizer jacks, and it must have twisted it enough to cause the roof to leak above the bed. After awhile and $8000 later, he has a new roof and a learned lesson.
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Old 02-28-2015, 01:04 PM   #28
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OK I get the reasoning for boards both sides. I have had to take the tongue jack all the way down a couple of times and almost all the way up once. I take it very high sometimes for loading the bike, often. I like the plywood idea as well. I keep splitting the tongue PT 2x8s. I have the Anderson, which has plenty of clearance, but started thinking about possibly too much weight on that one tire... Easily overloaded. Wonder if i should be concerned?
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Old 02-28-2015, 01:04 PM   #29
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Yes. If your trailer has the torsion axles, the space between the tires prohibits the use of the Andersons unless you cut and trim a considerable amount off one of the levelers. I went back to my Lynx levelers and chalked the expense up to "oh well."
Thanks for this info. We were wondering about that, and now we won't spend the $ on the Andersons. X-chocks, though, pretty sure we will.
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Old 02-28-2015, 01:16 PM   #30
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I think it's always a good idea to put something down between the ground (dirt & Gravel) and your tires if your going to be there for any length of time. But that's just me, just gives you a bigger foot print.
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:59 PM   #31
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I have been using the Andersen Levelers for a while now(I am the one that signed up with them as a distributor to buy them cheaper) I did have to cut one just a little to fit between my axles. It was quick and easy. I find them very easy and quick to level my rig. I will never go back to anything else. Takes up almost no space and now I never have to pull on boards/blocks only to find out that I am not level.....and pull off/on again. I pull on once until level and set....
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:14 PM   #32
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...but started thinking about possibly too much weight on that one tire... Easily overloaded. Wonder if i should be concerned?
With a tandem axle, you are supposed to use 2 Andersons, one on each tire on the same side. Am I missing something in your setup?
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:16 PM   #33
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With a tandem axle, you are supposed to use 2 Andersons, one on each tire on the same side. Am I missing something in your setup?
What about with duallies on a MH?

Thanks.

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Old 03-20-2015, 02:16 PM   #34
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I think it's always a good idea to put something down between the ground (dirt & Gravel) and your tires if your going to be there for any length of time. But that's just me, just gives you a bigger foot print.
The Anderson's give you a pretty good size footprint, much larger than the tire.
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:22 PM   #35
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What about with duallies on a MH?

Thanks.

Don't think they are designed for motor homes, they are much too narrow and too small a radius to fit the large tires.
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:27 PM   #36
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Thank you Mr. OC. Used to own a Prowler TT 19' about 20 years ago. Got away from using it and sold it due to medical issues. Now I'm retired and wife is getting ready to, just purchased a "previously owned" MH and there's much that is familiar to me and much that is not. Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread. Thanks for your response.
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:36 PM   #37
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I swear by my X-chocks... and I use them on both sides. It took 2 tries to get them bought though, on my grey wolf the wheels are spaced apart wider than normal, so I had to return 1st purchase and get a different set... but now I'm good.

I carry lots of blocking with me and some 2X10 chunks about 5' long
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:28 PM   #38
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Don't like carrying all that wood. Just too heavy & takes up too much space, but to each his own. That's why they make so much stuff to do the same job.
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:19 PM   #39
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:30 PM   #40
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Yes and with a sharp knife tooth picks and shish kabob sticks can be had....
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