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Old 06-25-2016, 08:27 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
The sites we choose are usually grass or leaves and hardly ever gravel or paving. I have even had to dig a few inches out under the opposite tires or under the front jack and A frame to get level once in a blue moon.

I'll stick with 2X10 and lynx blocks.
Murelene and I like using state federal campgrounds when we travel. I am just finishing up a 12 night trip that includes a 4 night stop in Nashville in mid October. Most sites are pull-through, every site has electric, some have water, and a few have full hook-ups but all have showers and flush toilets. Some have concrete pads, some gravel, while others have grass. We have a Sunseeker MBS2400WS and pull a motorcycle transport trailer.

What I have done is make up 12" x 36" x 3/4" plywood float boards with a cleat on one end. If the ground is soft. I put a board under each tire and one under the stabelizers. If the site is not level, I put leveling blocks on the boards as necessary to bring the motorhome to a near level position. I always try and keep the drivers side a little high because the full side slide-out makes the motorhome rock to that side a bit when in the full extended position. As far as a level goes. I have a free bubble app on my cell phone that works just fine.

I pull or back most of the way into a site, put the phone with the level app running in the middle of the cabin floor so I can determine what I need to do as far as leveling. Then I will set up the boards and Lego blocks as necessary. Then I pull forward or back up 18" to center on the blocks. By using the board, then a 4-3-2 block layer, I can get almost 4". Unless we are spending a week at a site, one attempt at leveling is good enough..

We are using state/federal campgrounds, not $60 a night RV Parks.

BTW Total camping cost for this 12 night trip $310 including all taxes and online reservation fees. Highest night is 45 at a Full hook-up pull-through RV Resort near Indianapolis. Lowest night is $11 for an Electric/water pull through at a Army Corps of Engineers site near Nashville (no sewer hookup available there but Dump station). Granted, I do get half price there because of my America The Beautiful Senior Pass ( best $10 I ever spent) and senior discounts at most state campgrounds but I can live with having to level my RV when cutting the nightly cost in half over the price of a KOA site.

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Old 06-25-2016, 09:14 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
If you need to raise one side 4" to be level, how far do you drive up one ramp to get the trailer to "settle" at the needed 4"?
This is my question also. I didn't word mine very well.

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Old 06-25-2016, 12:58 PM   #53
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My TT is 8' (96") wide when closed and I assume most are. Based on that width, every 0.6 degrees of slant will require 1 inch of lift on the downward side to make it level again. There's a phone app you can get for free on the Google app store called Clinometer. Open the app and place your phone on the bumper and it will tell you the slant angle and direction. Simple math will calculate how far to raise it.

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Old 06-25-2016, 01:24 PM   #54
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I Just use 2x10 planks that extend a foot on each end to accommodate the $5 plastic chocks and homemade wooden X-Chocks with stainless steel hardware between the tires.

I carry the planks from the truck bed to the tires and my DW or DS place them as needed.

Andersen Levelers are $80 EACH up here in Canada so there's no way I'll fork out $160 for a set.
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:06 PM   #55
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We had one of our leveling boards also tip up when tire first touched it, damaged the sewer line.

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