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Old 08-09-2018, 04:44 PM   #21
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A simple way to tell if separated spots are at the same level is by using a long piece of clear tubing. Fill the tube with colored water (easier to see). Water level at both ends of the tube will be the same. Establishing a starting reference point, you can put in a stake and attach one end of the tube to the stake. Going to other spots with the other end of the tube will let you put in stakes and mark the point level with the original spot. You may need two people to do this - make sure the water level remains at the same level at the reference point.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:11 PM   #22
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The problem with this is if for some reason the blocks give way and you have to jack the whole thing back up. It's not going to be easy without the tires on the trailer. Remember you are not anchoring the trailer to the ground like a mobile home or house. Pressure treated lumber last quite a long time even when wet.
The chance of all 4 or 6 or 8 cinder blocks and concrete pads to fail are non-existent. Sure, some will sink and settle over time but that can be remedied with shims. A trainer is not a huge very heavy object. Most times they are 10 to 12,000 pounds. One should raise the tires enough to at least take the weight off them. If not, one may experience the suspension allowing movement.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:31 PM   #23
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In Virginia...

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I would jack high enough to get tires off the ground. If too high to do so I would remove and restore them or buy some cheap metal supports to place under the spring pack. Not to support your rig but enough to lift tires off the ground. No wood in contact with the ground.
In Virginia, if you remove the tires, it puts the trailer into an entirely different (and more expensive) tax class, probably from mobile home to modular fixed housing.

It's actually one of the questions the assessor asks. Our tires are soft--one is flat because the valve stem dried up and broke off--and there are jacks at the spring supports, but by gosh, the wheels and tires have stayed on. (Trailer is permanently sited.)

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Old 08-09-2018, 08:40 PM   #24
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So you dont think the tires should be touching the ground at all?
you don't need to get the tires off the ground. Put blocks in front and rear of the axels. use 2 x 8 pt lumber on the ground. stack the blocks with the holes up and down. they are stronger that way. Jack up the trailer a little to take some weight off the springs. No need to get tires of the ground. Get it level then let some air out of the tires. Not all of it keeps them on the rims. The trailer will stop moving around.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:46 PM   #25
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First of all, leave your tires on the ground. They should support the majority of the weight of the trailer. The blocks are more for stabilization than anything. If your really worried about it, put your tires on some 2x8 planks of wood.

Second, I'd place the holes horizontal rather than vertical. The blocks will sink but they sink a little less when there is more surface touching the ground.

Third, you don't need a jack. Just put the blocks under and tighten them up to the frame with wooden shims. If they start to settle over the years, just push the shims in more.
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:03 PM   #26
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Quote; "The chance of all 4 or 6 or 8 cinder blocks and concrete pads to fail are non-existent."

Tell that to the guy on the last seasonal lot next next to some weekend lots. Weekender couldn't get his trailer where he was satisfied. After yelling at his DW and 2 boys he jump into his truck, pulled out swinging around and caught the seasonal's tongue with the rear of his trailer. Not only did he damage his trailer, he pushed the front of the seasonal's trailer enough that all 8 sets of blocks toppled, ripping the LP pipe loose and damaged the hitch jack and steps. The seasonal wasn't there at the time but he wasn't happy when he and his DW returned later in the late afternoon. A bunch of us other seasonals got together and had him taken care by 11p.m. The CG owner had some 1/2" black pipe and pipe wrenches. He charged the pipe to the weekender's cc.
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