Lippert Electric stabilizer jacks - manual override

[GLBCamper]

Originally Posted by babock

As far as the tongue jack backfeeding(assuming a permanent magnet motor)it doesn't have any electronic controls to worry about. I am assuming your stabilizer jacks have electronic controls of some type? If they don't and its just a mechanical switch, it shouldn't matter.

Tongue jack goes directly to positive battery terminal and is grounded to the frame. I could pull the in line fuse if necessary. But I’m lazy and prefer not to.

Stabilizers (and awning) go to their own panel which also functions the remote control to those two things. So I suspect there is a lot more to damage with those.

Honestly, I have stopped using the stabilizer jacks when boondocking. They just don’t seem to stop the rocking. I got a set of four Camco stack jacks for under $40 and they work much better.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Then I would think you could, AFTER disconnecting your hitch from the truck, keep the truck running and the cable to the TT connected so the 12 V supply will keep the battery charged while you are using the leveling jacks.

A portable solar charger might also be a good idea if you plan on boondocking often to keep your battery charged up for extended periods of time without the need for a generator or connecting your running truck periodically

You should still fill out yoru signature, it is located in the "User CP" section at the top of the page.

I agree here. It doesn't matter if you have a TT or a 5th wheel. Just be sure you have the trailer tires chocked so the trailer doesn't roll once you disconnect the hitch and boards or blocks under the low side if you need to use them to level side to side. With a 5'er you will need to be sure not to pull so far away to pull the umbilical cord. Keep the umbilical cord connected and the TV running until your completely stabilized then disconnect the cord and shut off the TV.

Work smart, not harder. Why overthink the task and make it any harder than you need to?

[GLBCamper]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

I agree here. It doesn't matter if you have a TT or a 5th wheel. Just be sure you have the trailer tires chocked so the trailer doesn't roll once you disconnect the hitch and boards or blocks under the low side if you need to use them to level side to side. With a 5'er you will need to be sure not to pull so far away to pull the umbilical cord. Keep the umbilical cord connected and the TV running until your completely stabilized then disconnect the cord and shut off the TV.

Work smart, not harder. Why overthink the task and make it any harder than you need to?

I thought that both the tongue jack and stabilizers draw directly from the TT batteries and that even if I left the umbilical plugged in and TV running, it is just trickle charging the TT batteries. Which means the charge the TT batteries are getting during setup is not nearly enough to compensate for the relatively large (albeit short duration) draw those items take. Am I wrong?

[babock]

Originally Posted by GLBCamper

Which means the charge the TT batteries are getting during setup is not nearly enough to compensate for the relatively large (albeit short duration) draw those items take. Am I wrong?

There is definitely a voltage drop through the trailer tow vehicle connector and that does affect charging since the voltage is lower than what is needed to charge the battery but will help you with the trailer jack draw. The amount you are using to raise the trailer off the hitch and them level is such a tiny amount, it's hardly worth worrying about.

If you are worried about the power a tongue jack takes, what are you doing about your slide which is WAY more draw.

[GLBCamper]

Originally Posted by babock

There is definitely a voltage drop through the trailer tow vehicle connector and that does affect charging since the voltage is lower than what is needed to charge the battery but will help you with the trailer jack draw. The amount you are using to raise the trailer off the hitch and them level is such a tiny amount, it's hardly worth worrying about.

If you are worried about the power a tongue jack takes, what are you doing about your slide which is WAY more draw.

Thanks for all of your good advice.

I had actually been counting every amp because I had a phantom draw that meant I was dropping to 80% (12.4v) in less than 24 hours of VERY conservative battery usage. But I believe I have now isolated it to two issues with the fridge electronics, the non-led light was sometimes staying on (confirmed by putting my phone inside and recording video) and the heat strip fix found on these boards.

So now I should actually have enough power to use the jack and stabilizers for setup!

[babock]

One of the first thing I did with my trailer was to remove the wire for the Dometic heat strip. That was 0.5A. I also put in a switch to turn the stereo off completely since it draws close to 300mA in standby. I found a couple bulbs that were not LED.... The one for the porch light and the one for the stove hood. I am down to a 200mA draw which I believe is the CO/propane detector.

I have also installed 200AH of BattleBorn batteries and 700W of solar so I won't ever have an issue!

[2Evil4U]

Confused on this one. The power is disconnected if the switch is on the off position. Even if it did generate some slight amount of power, where would it go. It won't override am open switch. I've cranked mine several times without disconnecting anything to no ill effects. Like others have said, to save power, Pull the fuse and don't worry about it.

[GLBCamper]

Originally Posted by babock

I also put in a switch to turn the stereo off completely since it draws close to 300mA in standby.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but 300mA comes out to 7.2amps in 24 hours. Right? If so, that alone would take my 230ah batteries down to 80% in just over three days. Small amp loads add up. I do have a 100w solar panel but I’m in the Pacific NW where it’s often either cloudy or the site has lots of trees. I do have a genny but like to avoid bringing it if I can.

How did you install your switch?

[babock]

Originally Posted by GLBCamper

Correct me if I’m wrong, but 300mA comes out to 7.2amps in 24 hours. Right? If so, that alone would take my 230ah batteries down to 80% in just over three days. Small amp loads add up. I do have a 100w solar panel but I’m in the Pacific NW where it’s often either cloudy or the site has lots of trees. I do have a genny but like to avoid bringing it if I can.

How did you install your switch?

21.6Ah over 3 days. That's 9.3% or 18% of your usable. Yes, even small draws like that add up.

I just went into the wall and cut the wires and had them go through a switch. I also branched it off to power some quality USB outlets. The switch turns them all off.

Even with my 700W of solar, I will be bringing a 2000W Harbor Freight Inverter genny for times like what you are mentioning. I likely will hardly use it.

[GLBCamper]

Originally Posted by babock

21.6Ah over 3 days. That's 9.3% or 18% of your usable. Yes, even small draws like that add up.

I just went into the wall and cut the wires and had them go through a switch. I also branched it off to power some quality USB outlets. The switch turns them all off.

Even with my 700W of solar, I will be bringing a 2000W Harbor Freight Inverter genny for times like what you are mentioning. I likely will hardly use it.

One last question

My Jensen radio/DVD doesn’t show a clock (or anything) in the off position. I know how to test for amp draw, but since you are knowledgeable about this, do you think just the radio memory is drawing that much?

[babock]

Originally Posted by GLBCamper

One last question

My Jensen radio/DVD doesn’t show a clock (or anything) in the off position. I know how to test for amp draw, but since you are knowledgeable about this, do you think just the radio memory is drawing that much?

I have a jensen and it has an LCD display. Yours might be ok but its very easy to measure the draw with a meter. You can pull the fuse at the breaker box and put a meter across it measuring current.

I have a Victrom BMV-712 meter installed on my trailer so I can see current for any device on the trailer. Just have my phone connected to it with bluetooth and switch things on and see what the current is.

[ghkain]

I didn't realize the Lippert Electric Stabilizer Jacks could be manually operated. How is this done? The dealer did not explain any such procedure. Thanks.

[GLBCamper]

Originally Posted by ghkain

I didn't realize the Lippert Electric Stabilizer Jacks could be manually operated. How is this done? The dealer did not explain any such procedure. Thanks.

On the side on the stabilizer that doesn’t have the motor housing there is a hex nut that is operated by a long handle. My handle came hanging in the front storage compartment.