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Old 04-29-2012, 11:03 PM   #11
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I cut mine off and went with 3/16" tube. I pull my 4,000# bass boat with 400# of tongue weight..........






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Old 04-29-2012, 11:37 PM   #12
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Very nice what does that 3/16 tube attach to?
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:46 PM   #13
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JFM, if you are only talking a max of 200 pounds, I wouldn't think you would have to get carried away. Your main frame I-beams look plenty hefty, much larger and with thicker metal than our lightweights. And I wouldn't think you would have to go too far forward, maybe past that vertical weld a ways, but not that much more.
If you made up a subframe assembly out of 2x4 rectangular tubing, 1/8 wall, and slid it over and tied it into your bumper assembly, I think you would have no worries at all.
But as a precaution, I might add one more crossmember, tying the bottom webs of the main I-beams together, maybe 1/2 way to the axles. That would remove any chance of them flexing under the added load.

My old fifth wheel had similar sized I-beams, and I also pulled a boat with only minor modifications to the frame. As transamz9 didn't show how he connected his heavier bumper, its hard to say if his is adeqaute or not.
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:53 PM   #14
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If you pick up some 2x4, look for some .188 wall. It'll be a whole lot lighter than .25 wall and still be plenty strong.

Oh, I see Crocus said .125 wall.
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:04 AM   #15
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.125, .188, whatever is available in that range.
I agree that .250 is probably heavier than necessary, as you don't want to add too much extra weight, and no need for the reinforcement to weigh more than the added load!

But I know adding a hitch to the back of my lightweight Flagstaff is going to be a lot more involved, as the main frame I-beams are sure small and slender.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:30 AM   #16
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Quote:
My old fifth wheel had similar sized I-beams, and I also pulled a boat with only minor modifications to the frame. As transamz9 didn't show how he connected his heavier bumper, its hard to say if his is adeqaute or not.
I know , didn't take a picture of the way I mounted it. I used the existing lightweight tube that was factory because it was welded on the inside of the web of the frame. Then I added 3/16" on the outside of the frame I-beam. Sorry for not having the pix. I have been working as a welder for 20 years so believe me when I say that if it comes off it will take the frame rail with it.
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:32 AM   #17
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"if it comes off it will take the frame rail with it."
==============================
That is why I was asking, as with the lightweight frames, if you just welded the tube to the rear of the I-beams, it could very well rip the end of the beams right off. I have seen it happen. The I-beams are simply too thin.
Gussets and reinforcement patches over the top and bottom welds need to be used to distribute the stress over a larger footprint on the I-beams.
Of course, for those with "normal" camper frames, it is not so critical.
Yours is probably a heavier frame.
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:09 PM   #18
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When in doubt, add more triangulation.

You can even box in a section of that I frame...

Not that I would consider myself a mechanical engineer or a great welder, but these trailers have some pretty crappy looking welds. But, then again, I look at what Detroit was putting out 30 or 40 years ago as state of the art automobiles, and many of those are still around and kicking.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:34 PM   #19
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FYI,

I placed a similar thread titled "Receiver for Bike Rack on TT" on 3/22/12. You might want to read the responses... consensus was mostly NO don't do it b/c of potential damage toTT frame.

Since I have a MiniLite TT, I just didn't think it was worth the risk. Since then, I have stored my bikes inside the TT and now that I have truck, plan to put the bikes in the truck bed. Neither of which are probably good options for your purpose...

I have a local welding shop that I contacted with this question. He said that the forces from the add'l weight are multiplied kinda like a person boucing at the end of a diving board. He claimed he could build a receiver that would handle this, but would have to start by replacing the current back bumper with one made of heavier gage steel.
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