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Old 11-18-2010, 04:14 PM   #11
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Caper................ you are too much!! glad to hear you only buy local.........

I still have that ocean front property in Arizona any takers?
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2009 F150 SCREW4x4 Prodigy P3 and tow package Valley WDH and dual anti sway
2006 Party Barge 21 90 Merc Optimax
2011 RockWood 2702 SS arrived 11.10.2010
nights camped 2010 6
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:30 PM   #12
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You are ignoring what I said. Put the casters and they will apply upward force and they will bend your frame in a short amount of time when you think you found a solution. I believe you should really invest in the rising kit for your trailer. Should cost around 300-500 dollars and is a good investment if you really have a "hostile" driveway, to your trailer that is

Nope, I won't mention it again as you seem to be set on the casters and ignoring the advice you seeked, which is your right by all means.
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:45 PM   #13
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not sure what I will do Goomph..... it would be nice to know by unhooking wdh that I would gain the needed clearance. I just can't see how with my plan it well bend anything.... I do hear your suggestions... thanks


Lots of rain yesterday checked and re checked TT bone dry.
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2009 F150 SCREW4x4 Prodigy P3 and tow package Valley WDH and dual anti sway
2006 Party Barge 21 90 Merc Optimax
2011 RockWood 2702 SS arrived 11.10.2010
nights camped 2010 6
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:58 PM   #14
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I am glad your trailer is bone dry ! sigh ... I am in touch with a bunch of people about mine.

If unhooking the WDH does not work, rising kit is the only solution you should be considering. People who has it swear by it, and it also does not change the tow characteristics of the trailer they state. Our trailers are really low, and actually I love mine for that
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:35 PM   #15
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The torsion flex axles on our Rockwoods are the same as what I had on the Trailmanor I had previously. It to dragged something fierce on my driveway (the entry still has scratches in the concrete). The issue with that trailer was even with the WDH disconnected it would drag front and rear. Being a mechanical engineer and working at a machine shop I made my own lift kit out of billet aluminum. It is not difficult to install but you will have to cut some short welds between the torsion tube brackets and trailer frame. You then jack up the trailer and install the kit between the frame and torsion tube brackets with longer bolts.

I would try removing the WDH first and if you drag front and back install the lift kit. If you only drag slightly on the rear go with the casters (just be careful not to load the frame with too much interference).
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:27 PM   #16
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Hoffkm, Where do you live ? I am coming with a few cases of beer and some scotch and my trailer in tow

Just kidding ! I saw pictures of the kit sent by FR and they look flimsy, was yours any sturdier looking ? Do you have any pictures you can share with us =?

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Originally Posted by hoffkm View Post
Being a mechanical engineer and working at a machine shop I made my own lift kit out of billet aluminum. It is not difficult to install but you will have to cut some short welds between the torsion tube brackets and trailer frame. You then jack up the trailer and install the kit between the frame and torsion tube brackets with longer bolts.

I would try removing th
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:50 PM   #17
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Just another possibility worth a mention is the tires/rims. I know on mine I have 205/75/14's, which are a bit small-ish I.M.O. The new 2011's just like mine have 15's on them. That would also give you some added lift, with easy bolt on stuff. Just an afterthought!! Also, I have seen several motorhome coaches with those casters on them, but I'm not saying to do it or not, just that they did it. Randy
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:29 PM   #18
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Sorry, no pictures of the installation on my Trailmanor. I just went out and looked at the axle mounts on my Rockwood 2901SS and it is a little different than what my Trailmanor was but I think it could still be lifted the same way. Good thing is there are no welds to cut. Below is a very fuzzy picture I took of the brackets to help explain how the lift would work (sorry for quality, it's dark out right now).

If you unbolt the axle from the bracket on the frame and jack up the trailer you can insert a piece of aluminum or steel the proper thickness to get the desired lift. There are slotted holes in the bracket on the axle to use to bolt thru the axle bracket and trailer frame. You would then re-drill the bolt hole in the trailer frame bracket thru axle bracket and re-bolt that connection. (reference the notes on the picture in the attached .pdf file)

If this makes no sense let me know and I will try to sketch up something and scan it in to attach.

I am located in Wauseon, OH (30 miles west of Toledo right off of 80/90) if you want to arrange a trailer "modding" weekend.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:35 PM   #19
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Thanks for the picture. I was curious about the thickness/flimseness/strongness of the one you manufactured. Obviously that was in a previous trailer.

Thanks for the offer to mod my trailer I seem to be doing ok with the slightly lowered hitch ball. If thinks get dicey I will keep your offer in mind
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:11 PM   #20
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Thanks Randy, Goomph and hoffkm.

I really think my drag is minimal and at the rear. I think with unhooking wdh after front clears or before rear hits and the wheel casters well just help glide the trailer on in the drive.... I think we may try and use some boards too to ease the weight on the casters. DW pointed out that we don't want the entire TT weight on caster, which I pointed out that the axles are on on the drive and holding the majority of weight.
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2009 F150 SCREW4x4 Prodigy P3 and tow package Valley WDH and dual anti sway
2006 Party Barge 21 90 Merc Optimax
2011 RockWood 2702 SS arrived 11.10.2010
nights camped 2010 6
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