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Old 11-18-2010, 08:30 AM   #1
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Talking moving Sissor Jacks???

On my 2702ss where the sissor jacks are installed is the low spots on my TT when backing into my driveway. I have ordered some quality skid wheels and plan to mount them where the jacks are now and thinking about (room allowing) mounting the jacks on the rear bumper.

Oh coarse I will loose a little jack capcity, but the fact that these are only stabalizing jacks and not actually lifting the TT off the ground should I be alright with this plan?

any other ideas............. I am not a welder and not too easy to take a 30+ trailer to a welding shop.

thanks all
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:15 AM   #2
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Just an FYI. I have been warned not to have skid wheels installed on my trailer by several camping buddies.

If they really make contact at the end of the frame rails at the back where I believe you will put them, they are almost guaranteed to bend your frame upward as the frame is not really designed to take force upward at the end.

My SV-291 has skid plates from the factory but they are pretty inside right next to the sewer/waste water gates, and are barely long enough to protect the valves.

There might be a rising kit for your trailer from FR. What I did with mine is, I lowered the height of the hitch ball by one hole on the Equalizar hitch and that raised the rear of the trailer a notch and I never scraped it anymore. I am still VERY VERY careful when I tow it though.
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:55 AM   #3
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If the only time it drags is when you are backing in to your drive, why not get some 2x8 boards and put down to back over and prevent the dragging. Got to be cheaper than skids, jacks/welding, etc. Just a thought.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:14 AM   #4
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Those bumpers are not real stong, I would not try using it for even the stabilizers. I think Goomph hit it on the nail head about the issues of dragging the frame.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:22 PM   #5
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Thanks for input, the dragging in minimal but on jacks, so I figure if the wheels take the place of a draging jack that is better.

Yes boards are easy in a perfect world....... but my approach which I had repoured I might add is still somewhat steep on the passengerside. It requires more then one board , several like at least three and moved often or additional boards just on the one side not to say what I need on low side.... and the best part is DW is moving the boards, she can not back anything. As well my driveway is midblock going up a hill. So unless you bright stars want to come here to help me I have got to find something easier. And no I don't live in a perfect world.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:30 PM   #6
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I have a VERY steep approach to my driveway as well. My 2901SS will scrape slightly on the rear unless I release the tension from my WDH. This is the same approach I used on the Trailmanor I had before the Rockwood. Might be worth a try for you?
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:07 PM   #7
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I always remove my Dual cam setup before backing into the driveway, the clicking and popping noises it makes when turning that sharply would wake the whole neighborhood! Also, it's recommended by the manufacturer to do so. That puts the rear up, and the tongue down some, possibly enough for you to back in without scraping?? Just a thought. Randy
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:09 PM   #8
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"So unless you bright stars want to come here to help me I have got to find something easier"

Threegr8katz,
Never been called a "Bright Star" before. Not sure if I should be elated or upset. One thing I am sure of though. Sarcasm will not get you much help on any forum. There are quite a few very talented people here, and one or more of them may have what you need.

I understand your frustration with this problem as I have a steep approach to my driveway as well. Yet ridiculing the answers that good meaning folks post, will not endear you to the rest. Chill out, have a beer, and see what others have to say.

Goomph's comment about a bent frame is right on. Once bent, the crooked frame will be the least of your problems. Leaks and wall separations won't be far behind. Adjusting the angle of approach (by boards or ramp) or lifting the rear (by lowering the nose/ball adjustment or a lift kit on the axles) may be your only options.
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:05 PM   #9
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point noted herk7769,

sorry for any sarcasm that was suggested. Thanks o8flaglite(randy) and hoffkm, yes my TT was making those noises and had no idea what they were. I think I well give that all a try. If I can get DW to help me I think I will unhook the wdh and see it that clears. I might go ahead and put the casters on just in case and if they clear then I well take them off and send back.... just a little inurance.

I am very thinkful for these USEFULL comments and suggestions. Sometimes a person has a thought and or question that later brings on another question, so in this case I posted them seperate. Sorry for being to wordy.
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:13 PM   #10
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My 2702ss's low point one at a time, is the bottom of the leveling jacks.

1st I tried with jacks in place and boards used, one jack inadvertently got bent. (sorry about spelling)

2nd removed back leveling jacks and only one board and went in.

I have caster ordered and thought since they would be shorter (not as tall as closed jacks mounted) then the jacks were that it would work out fine..... then just relocate jacks.

hmmmmmmmm
any thoughts, if taken slow as always wouldn't I be fine with the casters.

again it would only be minimal contact with the drive way, one wheel at a time .

I am also going to unhook my wdh to help with raising the rear. If all goes well with wdh undone, casers will not even do anything, if they do touch it well just be a little additional push to ease the TT in the drive?
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2009 F150 SCREW4x4 Prodigy P3 and tow package Valley WDH and dual anti sway
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2011 RockWood 2702 SS arrived 11.10.2010
nights camped 2010 6
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