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Old 06-23-2010, 02:23 PM   #1
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moving trailer sideways

I need to store my trailer in my barn. As you can see I have space on the opposite side (see crude drawing attachment) of the barn after I back it in but not enough room to maneuver it with a TV. I was wondering if those car dollies would help to move it sideways. It weighs about 6600 pounds. My thought is move it in jack up on dollies under all wheels and tongue push side ways with a few people do opposite when I need it out. I don’t want to use up the space in front of the door as I have other items that need access to the barn.
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:30 PM   #2
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it can be done that way but from experience moving cars with this technique, getting it in is 1 thing but you need to be able to get it out too. I had to use the lawn tractor lashed to the car on dollies to get that extra nudge to get enough room to push from the far side. that was only 3,000 lbs and a lot of grunting. Your going to need some big old boys to help move 6k lbs.
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:36 PM   #3
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Winch bolted to a wall?

Then a block and cable to pull it in. Direct connection to pull it out?

Sounds like way too much work even if the procedure is valid.

Might be a LOT easier to add a bay to the side of the barn.
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:39 PM   #4
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you have to be careful with the block & tackle as you can pull your wall down surprisingly easy if you attach to the wrong spot. Don't ask how I know that....
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:42 PM   #5
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Sorry...Have to ask....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jas View Post
you have to be careful with the block & tackle as you can pull your wall down surprisingly easy if you attach to the wrong spot. Don't ask how I know that....

How do you know that?
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:42 PM   #6
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Why not just add another door?
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:25 PM   #7
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Car dollies are made to work on a concrete floor. Can't tell from your drawing what kind of floor you have. Also can't tell how level your floor is, as most barns don't have a level floor. Be careful pulling on sideways, may collapse a dolly. Build a door, by an rv cover, build a lean-to on the the side of the barn, you may other options you haven't thought of yet. Besides 4 car dollies won't be cheap, plus a wheel for the tongue jack.

Also check the weight rating and overall size of car dollies. May not be able to fit two of them on the tandem axles.
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:34 PM   #8
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follow up

floor is concrete and level
the loft area has several supports going to the ground and is lower than trailer height so other door option is out without major overhual of barn.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:46 PM   #9
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the standard STEEL car dollies are made to pull sideways and are rated for that kind of load. these will do you....

Auto Dolly Heavy-Duty Steel Automotive Dollies — 16in.L x 12in.W, 2500-Lb. Capacity, 2-Pk. | Wheel Dollies | Northern Tool + Equipment

You might be able to shop around but be careful about anything much cheaper. Bigger wheels will help a lot also as the 3" wheels tend to bind up on little more than dust.
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:32 AM   #10
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You might find that it becomes too big of a hastle to park the trailer and will eventually inhibit those spur of the moment get out of town kind of trips, if it were me I would look at a different option for parking the trailer... that's my 2 cents
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:21 AM   #11
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You might want to have a back up plan. I used a set of 4 of the car dollies that I got from Harbor Frieght that I used to move a 1964 Chevy on a concrete floor and one of the wheels broke off at preciesly the wrong time.
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:52 AM   #12
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The easier it is to access the more likely you are to use it

I looked at your diagram and it would work if you were only going to store the rig and weren't planning on using it. Having to find hefty guys to help in addition to purchasing the dollies would seem to tip the scale in favor of another solution.

From your diagram with the top of the page being North, I'd build an addition along that North Wall the width of the the unit plus enough on either side so you can extend the sides and still walk around / work easily. I would probably also build enough length so that the tow vehicle also fits inside, just to make it easier to get everything hooked up and loaded while still protected from the weather. I don't know what kind of services you have run out to the barn already, but turning the area into a wash bay might save you additional time later - tile the walls, put in a drain pump system to the septic field etc. There may be an advantage to putting RV doors on either end - either for pull through or access.
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:48 AM   #13
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As mention it seems to be a lot of work, if you don't mine me asking why park it in the barn? I could see the reason if it was winter time. At work we have dollies that are used to move air craft around in the museum.
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:32 PM   #14
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adding next to the barn a bay would require some hefty tree moving as the woods start only small car witdth away. The south side of the barn when looking at the diagram is more or less cut into a slope so I can't go that way pull threw can't haooen as I am only a few feet from property line that is woods plus my budget is gone for awhile with the new trailer so adding on would not happen for awhile. The trailer would only be pushed sideways in the winter for long term storage unless it was easy to do than I could push it over and keep day to day stuff open tractor tools mower etc. . Ĥ As far as keeping it inside, the trailer will hold up better inside vs out since we are more weekend campers I don't need it every day. I have the barn so I might as well use it.
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Old 06-29-2010, 12:43 AM   #15
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Makes sense for seasonal storage and I agree with keeping it in the barn if possible, As I mentioned earlier it would hinder spur of the moment trips if it was kept in there all the time.
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