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Old 03-23-2015, 05:58 PM   #21
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Your trailer currently loaded is 8,180# (7060# + 1120#) of that, it's the 1120# on the tongue for 13.7% on the total trailer weight. Prudence looks for 10% to 15% in my opinion you are ok from that perspective.

If trailer weight stayed the same but you were able to reduce tongue weight to 950 the percentage drops to 11.6% and I still think you're ok. To accomplish the reduction, you could add a receiver hitch on the back plus something like a bike rack or such. Move some chairs or stuff from the front onto that back storage. Most trays are designed to carry 300#, and you only need to move 170# or so. This would take care of your tongue weight issue.

As to the drive axle, based on my 3 years with the Andersen, moving 140# forward is about all you will ever get, even if you move weight back to the trailer. However, if you level out with airbags or something like the Roadmaster (Roadmaster Active Suspension Kits | Helper Springs | Overload Springs) that will shift additional weight forward (and probably level out your headlights if you are towing at night).

Having said all this, I think you're so close that if it's towing ok, just do nothing. My old tow vehicle (Mercedes GL450) had a tongue weight of only 600# and I constantly kept agonizing over staying there (I did add a rear storage and that helped). The car had factory autolevel and the few times I let the tongue creep up to 800#, I never noticed any difference. Good Luck.
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:12 PM   #22
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Lower the truck
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:09 AM   #23
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For the basic question of "lower my tongue weight", the easiest is to repack the trailer with more weight in the back/rear, this will "lift up" the front end essentially getting weight off the tongue. There are drawbacks to this that others have mentioned in the form of sway and/or steering problems. But, being that you only need 140 pounds this should be negligible due to you WDH.

Maybe I missed it but why are you trying to get the weight off? Are you over payload spec? Over GCWR?

Depending on your weights you could just add dead weight/ballast to the back for towing purposes. I WOULD NOT do this by adding a rack to the bumper!
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:40 AM   #24
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As a whole the rig tows pretty well. I'm know I'm not really stressing the truck terribly. Perfection with be the death of me. In the future I would like to have a rack on the back but a frame mounted hitch. I know I can't do it to the bumper. I really thinking i would get a really "nifty" idea, if I posted this, on shifting weights.
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:42 PM   #25
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If you decide to do the rear hitch thing (which is what I did), I have some comments that may be of interest.

I researched to death, which hitch I should get (Curt or others). Should it be bolted to the frame? Could I do it myself? Is etrailer.com really the best price to order from? (Yes on this one). Then after figuring out which hitch, I started looking for who could install it.

I started with Campingworld in Denton, TX near me. They said they don't install hitches but referred me to a machine shop in Denton that does all their welding jobs. I called them and they told me to forget about buying any hitch since they would fabricate a custom hitch welded to the frame for about the same price as I was going to order the part from eTrailer. Based on Campingworld's recommend, I took it there.

Turns out they do the receiver jobs for Campingworld plus about 3 or 4 different RV stores in the area. Their work was excellent. Not only did the guy build and attach a perfect 500# capable hitch receiver, he went ahead and added some welds to the factory bumper because he thought it could use better support. In total, the job cost me $315 and I ended up with a better hitch then I could have bought and installed myself.
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:30 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hbillsmith View Post
If you decide to do the rear hitch thing (which is what I did), I have some comments that may be of interest.

I researched to death, which hitch I should get (Curt or others). Should it be bolted to the frame? Could I do it myself? Is etrailer.com really the best price to order from? (Yes on this one). Then after figuring out which hitch, I started looking for who could install it.

I started with Campingworld in Denton, TX near me. They said they don't install hitches but referred me to a machine shop in Denton that does all their welding jobs. I called them and they told me to forget about buying any hitch since they would fabricate a custom hitch welded to the frame for about the same price as I was going to order the part from eTrailer. Based on Campingworld's recommend, I took it there.

Turns out they do the receiver jobs for Campingworld plus about 3 or 4 different RV stores in the area. Their work was excellent. Not only did the guy build and attach a perfect 500# capable hitch receiver, he went ahead and added some welds to the factory bumper because he thought it could use better support. In total, the job cost me $315 and I ended up with a better hitch then I could have bought and installed myself.
Yeah I will be going that route. As a certified welder and 15 yrs working in a metal fab shop, this is a piece of cake. My only problem is Lippert will void my warranty if I do this. I have been lurking around the forum long enough to know that is the last thing I should do is void warranty.
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:12 PM   #27
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I think Lippert's frame warranty is only 1 year. By the time this message thread finishes, your warranty will probably be a non-issue. ;-)
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:44 PM   #28
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Yeah it's one year. So that won't take long. This tread may out live the warranty.
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