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Old 05-27-2018, 05:00 PM   #1
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No hot water in 2400W rig

Hi - newby here. I have a 2400W MBS (class C). Last month I had my rig professionally de-winterized. Now I'm on my first trip...connected to full hookup site. Fresh water tank is full, but I don't have any hot water. I've been told the hot water tank doesn't need to be filled separately. Is there a valve that may have been missed during de-winterizing? Where is the tank (and valve) located? I've searched online but can't find any description of how to access the tank/valve, etc. Many thanks.
Rob
Canandaigua, NY
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Old 05-27-2018, 05:05 PM   #2
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Make sure the bypass on the hot water tank is closed. Make sure the outside shower/faucet are closed.

Ensure that drain and pressure relief valve are closed with no leaks.

Turn on electric pump and turn on faucet hot water only to fill hot water tank and expel all air out of the hot water heater tank.

Once hot water heater tank is full, turn it on either propane or electric for an hour and then check to ensure you have hot water.

Please consider doing all of your own maintenance such as winterization and dewinterization as it will save your money and allow you to trouble shoot stuff like this on your own. This forum is a great start to get to know your camper.

Good luck!
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Old 05-27-2018, 05:22 PM   #3
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Note that the manufacturers have developed a number of ways to bypass the water heater using 1, 2 or 3 valves that you must manipulate. See page 2 of the attached generic plumbing pic. Option #1 is most common.
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File Type: pdf RV Plumbing pic.pdf (125.9 KB, 27 views)
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Old 05-27-2018, 06:38 PM   #4
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when it was winterized the water heater was drained and bypassed. dewinterizing just flushes the antifreeze out of the plumbing lines. there is no reason for the person doing the dewinterizing to touch the water heater bypass valve(s). so you are most likely still bypassing the water heater and it does not have any water in it. if you tried to heat the water using the electric heater element without water in the tank you have probably now burnt out the electric heating element. it should still work on gas once you get water to it.
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:55 PM   #5
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thanks for replying...so, where do I find the bypass valve?
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hovey View Post
thanks for replying...so, where do I find the bypass valve?
It will be behind the water heater. You may have to remove a panel that could be screwed in, or lift a dinette bench; who knows. (Looking online, it appears to be under your stove.

If you have looked at the bypass options in the attachment I attached to Post #3, the more common 3 valve arrangement (Option #1), it will look like this:

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Option 2a looks like this:

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Option 3 looks like this:

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Option 4 looks like this (the fitting where it says "HOT" is a check valve):

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Old 05-28-2018, 01:15 PM   #7
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No hot water

Hello - thanks again for your help. Unless I’m missing something...the valves seem to be in the correct position (see attached photo). Where would I find the drain plug?
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:20 PM   #8
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Yes, your valves are in the correct position.

On Suburbans, the drain plug is actually the anode rod. It is the large "bolt" head in the pic below. You'll need a 1-1/16 inch socket to remove it.

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The anode is sacrificial, meaning it slowly is eaten away (instead of the hot water tank). Below is a pic of how it typically is eaten away, and when you might need to replace it. Note that there's a steel rod down the middle of it, so even if it looks like there's a lot on the end and not much near the threaded plug, it's still OK.

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Old 05-28-2018, 02:39 PM   #9
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EDIT: Nevermind, it's a shadow
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
Yes, Cavie posted as I was looking at this. It seems the crossover line valve is open...which allows cold water over into the hot water line.


It's explained here:


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html


Make sure the crossover valve is fully closed (handle perpendicular with the line)
I deleted while you were typing. I can't be sure it is open. Very deceiving. Oh! hell, I stand by my first choice.
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie View Post
I deleted while you were typing. I can't be sure it is open. Very deceiving. Oh! hell, I stand by my first choice.

I deleted it all, once I got to a full computer and looked at it, as it's a shadow. The valve is correct.
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hovey View Post
Hello - thanks again for your help. Unless I’m missing something...the valves seem to be in the correct position (see attached photo). Where would I find the drain plug?

Hovey, have you actually verified there is water in the water heater tank by flipping up the lever on the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve on the face of the tank itself?


It's explained here in this link, as well as other things to make sure you are operating the heater correct as to what switches you may or may not be using? I haven't seen that aspect fully discussed yet.


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by hovey View Post
Now I'm on my first trip...connected to full hookup site. Fresh water tank is full, but I don't have any hot water. I've been told the hot water tank doesn't need to be filled separately.

I'm not sure i'm following here, as you say you at a full hookup site in red (which is water, electric and sewer)... but in blue state the fresh water tank is full.


Is there a reason you are using the freshwater tank and/or pump, instead of the city water connection? Or is this possibly just a misunderstanding?
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:47 PM   #14
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No hot water

I checked the model, and it’s actually an Atwood (see photo) And I’m now back home, plugged into 30amp service but not city water. What should I do at this point to continue troubleshooting? Thanks so much for all the help so far, especially on a holiday. I sincerely appreciate it!
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:49 PM   #15
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Valves for the hot water heater

Quote:
Originally Posted by hovey View Post
Hi - newby here. I have a 2400W MBS (class C). Last month I had my rig professionally de-winterized. Now I'm on my first trip...connected to full hookup site. Fresh water tank is full, but I don't have any hot water. I've been told the hot water tank doesn't need to be filled separately. Is there a valve that may have been missed during de-winterizing? Where is the tank (and valve) located? I've searched online but can't find any description of how to access the tank/valve, etc. Many thanks.
Rob
Canandaigua, NY
Hi Rob,
I just went out and took a look at my 2017 2400W MBS and here's what I see:
The hot water heater is under the stove. If you remove the drawer under the stove, you can access the valves that way, otherwise there is a trim panel that needs to come off. If yours is plumbed like mine, when you look in there, you'll see the water heater in it's styrofoam shell and in front of that you'll see it's plumbing.

-There is an upper red hose with a valve in it. Orient (open) the valve handle so it is parallel (inline) with the hose.
-There is a bottom Blue hose with a valve in it. Orient (open) that valve handle so it is also inline with the hose.
-There is a vertical hose that connects the aforementioned red and blue hoses. The vertical hose also has a valve in it and that valve must be closed, so orient that valve handle so it is perpendicular to the hose.

That should do it!
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Old 05-28-2018, 06:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hovey View Post
I checked the model, and it’s actually an Atwood (see photo) And I’m now back home, plugged into 30amp service but not city water. What should I do at this point to continue troubleshooting? Thanks so much for all the help so far, especially on a holiday. I sincerely appreciate it!
Turn your water pump on and run hot water spigot to make sure there is water in the tank. Then turn the propane water heater button and listen to hear if the burner ignites. Pretty loud, should be easy to hear. If not, you gots a problem.

This all presumes that your 12 volt lt system is operating ok.

Then try the 110 volt water heater, after letting the water cool off. If that doesn't work, it may be the heating element, easy fix.

Report back here.

Make sure you batteries are charging but checking voltage.
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Old 05-28-2018, 06:30 PM   #17
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Do you have cold water coming out at the shower, bath and kitchen sink but no hot at all 3 faucets? If it is only one faucet it can be a clogged aerator that can be removed, disassembled and cleaned.
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:36 PM   #18
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1. Verify there is water in the water heater tank by flipping up the lever on the temperature and pressure relief valve on the face of the heater. Both the Atwood and Suburban have this. If you don't get water coming out of the T&P, then stop until we can figure out why. You could have a valve stuck or not opening, as we have seen this, where the handle turns on the bypass/crossover valves, but it's not actually turning anything inside the valve.

2. The Atwood should have both a propane and electric heating element mode, according to the specs on the FR website for your RV. You will have two separate switches for these modes on your control panel. Have you tried both modes..or just one? Need a lot more details on what exactly YOU have done, switches (Or touchscreen buttons if applicable), etc.

3. Has your water heater ever worked, or is this something you are trying out for the very first time...as you said you were a newbie?
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