Observations after swapping out the China bombs

[DanKellar]

Originally Posted by BigH

I know there is a ton of threads related to this topic but I have a couple questions and some observations on the tires I swapped out yesterday.

My trailer came with Castle Rock 225 75 R15's load D and after researching on the internet I decided I wasn't willing to travel without swapping them out. I went with the Goodyear Endurance and upped to load E.

Observations first:

The rims/tires were not balanced.

The tires were just barely rated for the max trailer gross. I knew this from checking before our first trip last year and it bugged me.

I noticed on the trailer that the tire's contact patch had a curve to them leaving the center depressed somewhat. Off the trailer with the tire still inflated on the rim you could see the center was considerably recessed when compared with the edges. Surprisingly the flashing on the center of the tire was still visible with the edges showing normal use on all four tires. Considering the tires have always had max pressure and the camper was near max load...I found this a little disturbing.

I had planned to sell the Castle Rocks on CL but I couldn't do it after inspecting them close up.

The Questions:

I've gone through some tires in my days and it never crossed my mind not to balance anything that was going to do highway speeds. Is not balancing a normal or accepted practice with RV's?

Anyone else seeing tires that the center is not making hard contact with the road?

BTW I sleep better last night...

I swapped my Castle Rocks for the same Goodyear Endurance tire you did, "E" rated as well. I had the same experience too, with out-of-balance rims. I replaced the tires before I left on my first trip. I noticed that the tires kinda looked all "googly" on the rims too. Hard to explain how they looked. I gave the old tires to a friend, whose rig sits on an RV site in Myrtle Beach and is stored there off season.

[allenb12]

I have mine balanced including the new endurance that are almost a year old.

[primo20]

Originally Posted by BigH

I know there is a ton of threads related to this topic but I have a couple questions and some observations on the tires I swapped out yesterday.

My trailer came with Castle Rock 225 75 R15's load D and after researching on the internet I decided I wasn't willing to travel without swapping them out. I went with the Goodyear Endurance and upped to load E.

Observations first:

The rims/tires were not balanced.

The tires were just barely rated for the max trailer gross. I knew this from checking before our first trip last year and it bugged me.

I noticed on the trailer that the tire's contact patch had a curve to them leaving the center depressed somewhat. Off the trailer with the tire still inflated on the rim you could see the center was considerably recessed when compared with the edges. Surprisingly the flashing on the center of the tire was still visible with the edges showing normal use on all four tires. Considering the tires have always had max pressure and the camper was near max load...I found this a little disturbing.

I had planned to sell the Castle Rocks on CL but I couldn't do it after inspecting them close up.

The Questions:

I've gone through some tires in my days and it never crossed my mind not to balance anything that was going to do highway speeds. Is not balancing a normal or accepted practice with RV's?

Anyone else seeing tires that the center is not making hard contact with the road?

BTW I sleep better last night...

question since it came up in another thread. were your rims rated fora max psi? I'm still trying to get my head around it, but apparently the wheel has a max psi rating. id also like to go to load range E as i have the same castle rock tires you had, but haven't had a chance to look yet if the wheel is stamped with a max psi?

thanks,

[DavidBo]

Add me to the better safe than sorry club. I too swapped out my barely used overseas explosives with a brace of new GY Endurance tires. It's always a good idea to check the manufacture date of "new" tires, I was pleased to see that mine were a mere 3 months old.
I too had mine balanced, it only makes sense to me. Considering the amount of fresh lead that got tacked on tells me it was the right call. I did make a mistake however. I plan on investing in a TPMS and steel valve stems in the near future, it would have been wise to have acquired that first so the wheels could have been balanced with the new stems and sensors in place. Guess that means another trip to the tire shop!

[My17Ram]

Originally Posted by DavidBo

Add me to the better safe than sorry club. I too swapped out my barely used overseas explosives with a brace of new GY Endurance tires. It's always a good idea to check the manufacture date of "new" tires, I was pleased to see that mine were a mere 3 months old.
I too had mine balanced, it only makes sense to me. Considering the amount of fresh lead that got tacked on tells me it was the right call. I did make a mistake however. I plan on investing in a TPMS and steel valve stems in the near future, it would have been wise to have acquired that first so the wheels could have been balanced with the new stems and sensors in place. Guess that means another trip to the tire shop!

My new Endurances all required a good amount of weights to balance too. Much more than any car/truck tire I have ever had.
IMHO the addition of TPMS sensors on an already well balanced wheel/tire would make an insignificant difference in the balance.

[Shadowchaser]

i have my trailer tires balanced. Any vibration at that point tells me I have a problem. Blown too many tires on 5ers to toads and horse trailers. I have 16” rims and after several blowouts I told my shop I was sick and tired of them. He put on 14 ply tires and all is well. Same tires that go on the lowboy haulers. I run them at 80psi instead of recommended 110 psi. Smoother ride and no heat buildup. And road stability is great especially with a tri axel 5er.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by My17Ram

I just installed new Endurance tires on my 233s, replacing the original Constancy China bombs and can offer my observations:
The original tires were not balanced. I own my own tire mounting/spin balancing machines and the new Endurance tires were far more difficult to balance than any passenger car tire I have ever balanced, requiring more weights and multiple spins. However they all ultimately balanced out to zero. I spun two of the china bombs before dismounting and they would have required a similar amount of weight. There were balanced with a lug centric adapter by the way. I attribute the amount of weights to them being a heavy tire and not manufactured to as exacting balance specs as a car tire.

Test drive: WAY better feel than the originals. Seems to be less rolling resistance and sway/side to side movement is all but gone. Very smokth and vibration free.

Balance and uniformity ("Roundness") are not the same thing. You can "balance" a cinder block but I would not want to ride on a set

[youroo]

Originally Posted by youroo

If it Rotates it should be balanced,BUT remember a" Square Block" can be balanced but it will NOT rotate very smooth going down the road! Youroo!!

Hey quit using my lines!^^ Youroo!!

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by youroo

Hey quit using my lines!^^ Youroo!!

Saw a video once in pre-youtube days. Wish someone would make a video. Maybe your wooden block would be safer.
I would not want to be near a cinder block on a modern spin balancer.


I do have an old bubble balancer. Maybe when I get back from the RVillagerally in Elkhart this weekend I will see what i can work out.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by BigH

I know there is a ton of threads related to this topic but I have a couple questions and some observations on the tires I swapped out yesterday.

My trailer came with Castle Rock 225 75 R15's load D and after researching on the internet I decided I wasn't willing to travel without swapping them out. I went with the Goodyear Endurance and upped to load E.

Observations first:

The rims/tires were not balanced. To save FR $

The tires were just barely rated for the max trailer gross. I knew this from checking before our first trip last year and it bugged me. To save FR $. Do your tire load capacity exceed the GAWR by 10%? That is the new RVIA requirement. I guess that some RV assemblers will simply cut the capacity of the RV so they don't have to put larger tires on so they don't have to spend $

I noticed on the trailer that the tire's contact patch had a curve to them leaving the center depressed somewhat. Not good. Could mean the belts on the tires don't have sufficient strength to get the contact patch in the more desirable slight rounded shape as seen on your passenger and LT tires from major tire companies. Off the trailer with the tire still inflated on the rim you could see the center was considerably recessed when compared with the edges. Surprisingly the flashing on the center of the tire was still visible with the edges showing normal use on all four tires. Considering the tires have always had max pressure and the camper was near max load...I found this a little disturbing. Might put more strain and load on the tire shoulder.

I had planned to sell the Castle Rocks on CL but I couldn't do it after inspecting them close up.

The Questions:

I've gone through some tires in my days and it never crossed my mind not to balance anything that was going to do highway speeds. Is not balancing a normal or accepted practice with RV's? Not if it costs the RV assembler money. Tire/wheel supplier would probably charge more for balanced assemblies.

Anyone else seeing tires that the center is not making hard contact with the road?

BTW I sleep better last night...

Opinions in RED

[Comanchecreek]

First, I always balance my trailer tires. Any vibration is causing strain on everything from bearings to microwaves, to circuit boards to mounting bolts. My spin balancer is hub centric. My bet is the corner cutting manufacturers would never spend the money on lug centric wheels for a travel trailer. I've done thousands and have never seen them, but would think from the video it would be pretty obvious during the balancing process. We're not dealing with Ferrari's here. I also am of the club that eliminated the "foreign explosive" tires upon delivery. Too many horror stories here not to, and the damage caused with tread separation can be huge. Wheel rating is a big deal when you increase load carrying capacity. A load range E is usually run at 80 psi, a load range G is usually run at 110 psi. That's a big difference. Sure it's the same with wheels rated at 45 psi to wheels rated to 80 psi.
So in the end, buy quality tires, get them balanced, be sure the wheels are up to the task, put on metal valve stems for your TPMS, and have a great trip.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Comanchecreek

First, I always balance my trailer tires. Any vibration is causing strain on everything from bearings to microwaves, to circuit boards to mounting bolts. My spin balancer is hub centric. My bet is the corner cutting manufacturers would never spend the money on lug centric wheels for a travel trailer. I've done thousands and have never seen them, but would think from the video it would be pretty obvious during the balancing process. We're not dealing with Ferrari's here. I also am of the club that eliminated the "foreign explosive" tires upon delivery. Too many horror stories here not to, and the damage caused with tread separation can be huge. Wheel rating is a big deal when you increase load carrying capacity. A load range E is usually run at 80 psi, a load range G is usually run at 110 psi. That's a big difference. Sure it's the same with wheels rated at 45 psi to wheels rated to 80 psi.
So in the end, buy quality tires, get them balanced, be sure the wheels are up to the task, put on metal valve stems for your TPMS, and have a great trip.

IMO all RVs should be running bolt in metal valves. Standard passenger "snap-in" valves like TR413 or similar (number should be molded on air chamber side) are only rated for 65 psi)
Also whenever you get new tires because the rubber has "aged out" don't forget the rubber parts of the valves also can "age out". Sometinesyou might be able to get just the rubber parts replaced but Uou might find it easier to just get new valves. I would start shopping for the replacement valves about a year before you are getting new tires. This will allow you to get the correct size (length) and maybe also find a place with a good price.

[Okie Dokie 2]

Went from china crap to Goodyear Endurance best move I ever made.
Now have you ever road in a car with unbalanced tires or even badly unbalanced? Why would you want to vibrate and shake your many thousand of dollars home? No brainer for sure. I don’t need everything in my trailer shook to pieces!

[uhduh camping]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Saw a video once in pre-youtube days. Wish someone would make a video. Maybe your wooden block would be safer.
I would not want to be near a cinder block on a modern spin balancer.


I do have an old bubble balancer. Maybe when I get back from the RVillagerally in Elkhart this weekend I will see what i can work out.

Check out this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIN8Q_4iaxU&t=209s

[Slow Moon]

Originally Posted by Okie Dokie 2

Went from china crap to Goodyear Endurance best move I ever made.

In what way?

[My17Ram]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Balance and uniformity ("Roundness") are not the same thing. You can "balance" a cinder block but I would not want to ride on a set

Could you expand on this statement in a way that makes some sense to the discussion at hand, “Tireman”?

[Okie Dokie 2]

Originally Posted by Slow Moon

In what way?

Heavier side walls better performance and I also am getting better mileage.

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by BigH

The tires were just barely rated for the max trailer gross. I knew this from checking before our first trip last year and it bugged me.

Keep in mind the combined capacity of the tires doesn't need to meet or exceed the trailer GVWR, tires are part of GAWR. Your trailer could have a 7,700lb GVWR but the combined capacity of your tires or axles may be less. Why? The trailer tires/axles don't carry 100% of the weight, at least 10% goes on your hitch.

Simply put, GVWR is not the sum of GAWR. GVWR and GAWR are parallel weight capacities meaning you have to ensure you're under both ratings. You cannot assume you're under GAWR as long as you're under GVWR, you can exceed GAWR and be under GVWR due to improper cargo loading or weight distribution.

[BigH]

Originally Posted by DieselDrax

Keep in mind the combined capacity of the tires doesn't need to meet or exceed the trailer GVWR, tires are part of GAWR. Your trailer could have a 7,700lb GVWR but the combined capacity of your tires or axles may be less. Why? The trailer tires/axles don't carry 100% of the weight, at least 10% goes on your hitch.

Simply put, GVWR is not the sum of GAWR. GVWR and GAWR are parallel weight capacities meaning you have to ensure you're under both ratings. You cannot assume you're under GAWR as long as you're under GVWR, you can exceed GAWR and be under GVWR due to improper cargo loading or weight distribution.

I knew this and that knowledge didn't keep it from bugging me knowing the tires were junk. I would have felt somewhat better if the tires were rated for some number well above gvwr but I don't think it would have stopped me from buying new tires.

[BigH]

Originally Posted by primo20

question since it came up in another thread. were your rims rated fora max psi? I'm still trying to get my head around it, but apparently the wheel has a max psi rating. id also like to go to load range E as i have the same castle rock tires you had, but haven't had a chance to look yet if the wheel is stamped with a max psi?

thanks,

I didn't find a psi rating...the tire store I had mount the new tires said the rims were good for the max psi of the tire I put on...80psi. There was a weight rating and while I don't remember the exact number I do remember it was not as high as the tire I put on.

I checked on a chart from Goodyear that showed the new tires were above the weight rating I needed at 65psi. That psi is the maximum of my old tires so I know I'm good there.

https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf