Portable In Room A/C ?

[Waterops1]

Originally Posted by Ejs4029

This looks pretty high tech

Never saw a set up for camping tents. That’s a lot smaller unit than the ECUs that cooled our TEMPER tents when I was in the desert.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by Ejs4029

Thanks for all the input....I can vent the exhaust out of the TT via a window in the dinette slide out or from the storage area underneath the dinette accessed by a cabinet inside then thru an outside exterior door so that wouldn't be a problem.

My thought was that because it only 8,000 btu's it wouldn't draw as many amps as my 15K TT A/C unit anyway I think I have given up on the idea considering I will spend $200-$400 on the portable A/C unit when I can just use that money and ramp up the install of the 50AMP plug and be done with it.

Wise choice.

[rlh1957]

Home made tent adapter for AC. This one is far advanced to the duct tape and razor knife version we had.

[kc5mhb]

Your money would be better spent on running a 30 or 50 amp service out to your camper. I have a 10000 BTU portable A/C unit that I took with me in my former 2015 Cherokee Limited 274DBH. By itself it struggled to cool the camper down. Campers are not built with the insulation a house nor the space between the ceiling and the peak of a house roof. I ran both the roof air and the portable A/C, venting it out the stove top vent and together they kept the camper comfortable in this Louisiana heat but not enough to warrant spending the extra money for. I keep the portable unit for hurricanes and house A/C issues but nothing more.

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by Ejs4029

Thanks for all the input....I can vent the exhaust out of the TT via a window in the dinette slide out or from the storage area underneath the dinette accessed by a cabinet inside then thru an outside exterior door so that wouldn't be a problem.

My thought was that because it only 8,000 btu's it wouldn't draw as many amps as my 15K TT A/C unit anyway I think I have given up on the idea considering I will spend $200-$400 on the portable A/C unit when I can just use that money and ramp up the install of the 50AMP plug and be done with it.

Best move. Later RJD

[5picker]

Originally Posted by mikel68

I'm not electrical genius by any stretch, but from what I'm reading you can plug them into your TT, so it has electricity?



I'd plug into the garage.



In running a 50 amp plug make sure you understanding the wiring. It's not the same as wiring for a dryer or other appliance.

Good Luck.

Not to derail the OP but a 50 amp R/V service is in fact, wired exactly like any 50 amp 240v appliance outlet.

It is the 30 amp R/V outlet where people get confused and wire it up incorrectly.

[rlh1957]

But none of your RV accessories or equipment are running off of both L1 & L2 at 220-240 Volts. All your devices on a normal RV wiring coming from the breakers are on either 110V L1 or 110V L2 both of which are essentially two 25-30A feeds.
In a house the L1 and L2 have to be a different phase from the other and because of load balance in the shore power is the way it is wired. But if you ran both leads from the Shore House breaker panel from the same side 2 110V leads the RV won't know it because these never combine or touch. If you have two AC's in your RV both are 110V. and both are on a separate 110V breaker. They aren't 220/240 like a house AC.
The 30A is where people get messed up, fry their campers. Many licensed electricians don't know that an RV electrical service is just 110V and they wire it like a dryer or stove plug.
I have pulled the cables and wired them up for RV's so it is familiar ground.

[myxkp]

A portable in room a/c can be ducted to dump the heat outside, they're usually sold with kits to do just this HOWEVER, all the air that gets dumped outside has to be made up for so you'll end up pulling warm air in. Better to locate the unit outside the trailer push cool air in, leaving a vent open to maintain air flow. (think of blowing up a balloon - if your trailer is fairly air tight). 25 yrs HVAC.

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by rlh1957

But none of your RV accessories or equipment are running off of both L1 & L2 at 220-240 Volts. All your devices on a normal RV wiring coming from the breakers are on either 110V L1 or 110V L2 both of which are essentially two 25-30A feeds.
In a house the L1 and L2 have to be a different phase from the other and because of load balance in the shore power is the way it is wired. But if you ran both leads from the Shore House breaker panel from the same side 2 110V leads the RV won't know it because these never combine or touch. If you have two AC's in your RV both are 110V. and both are on a separate 110V breaker. They aren't 220/240 like a house AC.
The 30A is where people get messed up, fry their campers. Many licensed electricians don't know that an RV electrical service is just 110V and they wire it like a dryer or stove plug.
I have pulled the cables and wired them up for RV's so it is familiar ground.

Yes, nothing in the RV runs on 220, however they still need to be on different phases because they share a common neutral. If they were on the same phase the neutral would run up to 220v.

It’s the because of the neutral why we recommend double checking the work of the electrician. There have been some stories of ‘electricians’ not connecting neutrals in the plugs, assuming it’s unused.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by rlh1957

But none of your RV accessories or equipment are running off of both L1 & L2 at 220-240 Volts. All your devices on a normal RV wiring coming from the breakers are on either 110V L1 or 110V L2 both of which are essentially two 25-30A feeds.
In a house the L1 and L2 have to be a different phase from the other and because of load balance in the shore power is the way it is wired. But if you ran both leads from the Shore House breaker panel from the same side 2 110V leads the RV won't know it because these never combine or touch. If you have two AC's in your RV both are 110V. and both are on a separate 110V breaker. They aren't 220/240 like a house AC.
The 30A is where people get messed up, fry their campers. Many licensed electricians don't know that an RV electrical service is just 110V and they wire it like a dryer or stove plug.
I have pulled the cables and wired them up for RV's so it is familiar ground.

See the statement I made bold above...

L1 and L2 are not two 25-30 amp feeds, they are two 50a feeds (hence the name 50a service) fed and protected by a 50a breaker for a COMBINED availability of 100a of power.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by 5picker

See the statement I made bold above...

L1 and L2 are not two 25-30 amp feeds, they are two 50a feeds (hence the name 50a service) fed and protected by a 50a breaker for a COMBINED availability of 100a of power.

To add to Picker. what makes them different is you can't plug in a 2 pole breaker in your trailer and get 220 volts. There is one in a 50 amp panel. it is in the middle of the panel. 50 AMP MAIN L1 to the left and L2 to the right. To get 220 you need L1 and L2 side by side. In your house it's MAIN L1/L2/L1/L2/L1/L2 and so on. In your trailer, it's L1/L1/L1/L1/L1/MAIN/L2/L2/L2/L2

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by 5picker

See the statement I made bold above...

L1 and L2 are not two 25-30 amp feeds, they are two 50a feeds (hence the name 50a service) fed and protected by a 50a breaker for a COMBINED availability of 100a of power.

Not 100 total. 50 and 50 and if either side goes over 50 then pop. So theoretically you could pull 51 amps on one side and 5 on the other and you pop the breaker.

Just saying since we are getting so retentive here and the OP already solve his issue. LOL

[5picker]

Originally Posted by garbonz

Not 100 total. 50 and 50 and if either side goes over 50 then pop. So theoretically you could pull 51 amps on one side and 5 on the other and you pop the breaker.

Just saying since we are getting so retentive here and the OP already solve his issue. LOL

I never said 100a total. I said total COMBINED. You are correct in that if either leg pulls more than 50a it kicks the breaker but both legs can pull 50a for a total COMBINED power availability of 100a.

A 30 amp service can only provide 30a so you have 70a more power available to your R/V on a 50a service.

[XenoRev]

I run my ac, none in the house, to cool off. It's been in the 90s here in MI.
12g 75ft cord off 30a breaker in house.
Fridge is on, both in outdoor kitchen and inside.
Only problem I had was trying to run electric water heater. Duh!
Switched over to propane and no issues.

[Rookiewood]

Originally Posted by dbledan

I only have a 30A trailer but I have successfully run my 15k btu colman mach III off a dedicated 15A outlet. That one single outlet has it's own breaker in the box as mentioned above. It was there already if I had done it then I would have put in a 30A but no easy way now.

I ran the trailer cord in and used a dogbone to 110. I have a hard start capacitor on the AC so I can even have the converter going without tripping because I am only at 14A with ac starting and converter on. It runs steady at about 9-10A. If you have trouble you can always flip off all the breakers except the AC in the trailer. Then no AC to buy.

An important note is get a good large gauge dogbone. DO NOT use a small gauge cord or it will overheat and melt.

I don't run anything else except for the converter and AC when I do it and I have watched usage closely.

Best of luck and stay cool.

We do the exact same thing with no problems what so ever and we don't have to flip any breakers. Just make sure the hot water tank is not on.

[cmalberto]

You might also think about a slightly larger unit. We have a 10K - slightly different use case for which I will explain below - but the larger unit can always be repurposed in the home if your AC went out or have to run in the home on a generator.

We are currently having to live in our Motorhome(36 foot) and it runs in the low to mid 90s(already this year). The 2 ACs don't keep up well during the heat of the day so the portable offsets. During the evenings(no sun) we run the portable in solo mode as it keeps the front of the rig comfortably cool and is much quieter. Our 50 amp service handles the load just fine running off a 110v 20amp plug. I usually clean the filter and drain water every couple of weeks. This unit dehumidifies as well. It is a LG 10K unit bought at (the)Home Depot.

Hope some of this helps.

[kcmusa]

Originally Posted by rlh1957

Or you could do the old fashioned way before AC was common in travel trailers, popups even seen in tents before... Cut a hole in side high or low or in a window, put that little window air conditioner in, brace it, duct tape the places where the light comes in and you are old school ready with the comforts of home. Ask me how I know it can be done in the side of a 4 man tent?

if you have ever seen the big military tents in the desert with the AC to them, what a site.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Ejs4029

Thanks for all the input....I can vent the exhaust out of the TT via a window in the dinette slide out or from the storage area underneath the dinette accessed by a cabinet inside then thru an outside exterior door so that wouldn't be a problem.

My thought was that because it only 8,000 btu's it wouldn't draw as many amps as my 15K TT A/C unit anyway I think I have given up on the idea considering I will spend $200-$400 on the portable A/C unit when I can just use that money and ramp up the install of the 50AMP plug and be done with it.

Sounds like a better plan. Just remember that 50A is NOT 240V.