Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-18-2015, 01:34 PM   #11
Member
 
retiredguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Alberta
Posts: 62
Hi.. our electric stabilizers will take some weight of the trailer. Ok for overnighting or short stay. They will not level side to side. When they are at the max for lifting, there is a override.... it starts clicking. It takes 5 or so seconds to reset. We take some light oil (wd40) along, as ours tend to stick if left for awhile, or if at max extension.
__________________

__________________
2013 Windjammer 3025
2012 GMC 3500 6.6
2011 Razor 800
http://dougbevswanderings.blogspot.ca/
retiredguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 02:46 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Michigan/Florida
Posts: 59
As the owner of a 3029W I will give you one hint. Extend your slides before running the stabilizers down as the weight of the two slides on the street will overload the leg one the left rear I speak from experience! Aside from that we love the trailer.
__________________

__________________
walljammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 02:55 PM   #13
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,215
Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
I am taking possession of a 2016 3029W next week. The only thing about it that I'm not sure if I like or not are the electric stabilizers. I have never had them before and I have never spoken to anybody who has. To me, they seem a little excessive -- I have never wished that lowering my stabilizers would be easier than it is by cranking them down manually.

What are the pros and cons of electric stabilizers? Is there a certain way they should be deployed? What do you do when your battery is dead or the motor fails?

Do you love them or do you hate them?

Bruce
Love mine AFTER I removed them and reinforced the legs and replaced the strap braces with pipe braces. Have another modified set in front of the axles and between the landing jacks and these 2 sets, I believe I could lift the trailer off the wheels. I wouldn't for fear of bending the frame, but they are now extremely strong.
__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 03:27 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 218
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Love mine AFTER I removed them and reinforced the legs and replaced the strap braces with pipe braces. Have another modified set in front of the axles and between the landing jacks and these 2 sets, I believe I could lift the trailer off the wheels. I wouldn't for fear of bending the frame, but they are now extremely strong.
Old Coot have you got some good pictures of what you did to the stabilizers. I noticed that on the right rear of mine the inside strap has a bit of a bend to it.
I'm pretty sure it was there before I put the jacks in front of the tires last week.
I found since putting those jacks there that the stabilizers don't need to be as tight as they were before to stop the bounce.
__________________
Carrier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 04:35 PM   #15
Retired
 
MainelyUS's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Sunderland, MA
Posts: 425
Power Stabilizers for Windjammer

I spent a few weeks this spring in TX camping with my brother-in-law in a FR 31'Rockwood w/ power stablilizers...I thought they were the cat's meow until we bought our 2015 Windjammer with manual stabilizers and a 18v cordless drill.
Two things I noticed: 1/with the power stabilizers there were normally two people in involved with deploying the stabilizers and maintenance of the threaded rods (from a safety prospective that made sense), 2/with the manual system on our Windjammer deploying the stabilizers and maintaining them with the cordless drill can be done by one person. This also gives me the opportunity to inspect the stabilizers and the undercarriage plus it gives my DW the opportunity to continue finishing her part of the checkoff sheet. I would not spend the money for power stabilizers when an 18v cordless drill is more efficient, cost less, and is faster.
Bet your friend/neighbor who's TT has power stabilizers to a friendly competition of lowering and raising your stabilizers...the cordless will win hands down.

Happy Camping
__________________
2015 Windjammer 2618VS
GMC Sierra 3500HD Z71 6.6L Duramax/Allison
Reese Strait-Line WD
MainelyUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 05:17 PM   #16
Dazed & Confused
 
M&K Hoffman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: NW PA
Posts: 348
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcloud1 View Post
This is something I always thought I'd like to have on a trailer until we actually got them on our Windjammer. As far as stabilizing the trailer they are pretty much useless. If you want to take the rock and roll out of the trailer get a set of screw Jacks and X chocks . As one guy on the forum put it trying to stabilize the Windjammer 3008 is like trying to take the Bounce out of a diving board.
Yep, I believe I agree with that statement. I have heard of good results mounting scissor jacks near the axles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by walljammer View Post
As the owner of a 3029W I will give you one hint. Extend your slides before running the stabilizers down as the weight of the two slides on the street will overload the leg one the left rear I speak from experience! Aside from that we love the trailer.
I would agree with this also for the 3008W. I have learned with our 3008W I need to "level" with the slide side 1.5" high, then run out the slides and put down the stabs.

I also agree the power stabs are slow.
__________________
~Mike & Kim~
2014 Rockwood Windjammer 3008W Diamond Package
2012 Toyota Tundra Doublecab 5.7 4WD
M&K Hoffman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 05:32 PM   #17
Georgia Frog Rally 2018
 
aceinspp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: GA
Posts: 10,662
As one that has use this system for 5 years I've never encounter the issue of bending the stabilizer jacks. I've always put down before slides are out. Mind you I never over stress the jacks when deploying. This a key issue. (folks tend to abuse) Folks just have a tendency to think the more the hold the button the more its going to help. Yep bend city. I'm not recommending other folks do as I , as some one will abuse it. BTW I see no (haHa) warning stickers saying other wise. Later RJD
__________________
2015 35 FT V-Lite 30WRLIKS Diamond Package
2015 Chevy 2500 6.0 4:10 gearing.
Days camped in 2016 58
Days camped so far 2017 62
aceinspp is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 05:47 PM   #18
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrier View Post
Old Coot have you got some good pictures of what you did to the stabilizers. I noticed that on the right rear of mine the inside strap has a bit of a bend to it.
I'm pretty sure it was there before I put the jacks in front of the tires last week.
I found since putting those jacks there that the stabilizers don't need to be as tight as they were before to stop the bounce.
For the braces, I used 3/4" pipe and heated and smashed the ends and bent to match the strap braces. For the legs, I split 27" of 2-1/2" x 1/8" wall square tubing and tapered the ends and welded them to the bottom of the legs.
The bottom picture still shows the strap braces.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Stab Leg reinforcments ready to trim.JPG
Views:	90
Size:	138.2 KB
ID:	83291   Click image for larger version

Name:	Stab Leg reinforcments.JPG
Views:	109
Size:	170.2 KB
ID:	83292   Click image for larger version

Name:	Reinforced Stab Jack Leg.JPG
Views:	113
Size:	102.7 KB
ID:	83293   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00455.JPG
Views:	102
Size:	126.5 KB
ID:	83294  
__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 11:20 PM   #19
Retired
 
MainelyUS's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Sunderland, MA
Posts: 425
Great discussion on power vs manual stabilizers, over stressing them, deploying strategies (before or after extending sliders), etc. I have read manuals where one says deploy before and another says deploy after the TT is level,,,oh-well. Most of the manuals state the stabilizers are not to be used for leveling purposes. Whereas the slides are an integral part of the structural of the TT when retracted I prefer to level before deployment. I first level the TT L/R using a 4' level and leveling boards. A trick I discovered is when leveling L/R make sure the bubble touches the upper make of the leveling tube. This gives me the thickness needed under the wheels but more importantly when the slides are deployed the bubble in the leveling tube is dead-centered. Then I deploy the stabilizers using a 2"x12"x12" PPT as a landing pad. This technique works great.

The question no one has asked is the proper geometric shape of the stabilizer when deployed. Should it be a " tall narrow X" fully extended or a "more broad X"?

Any thoughts?
__________________
2015 Windjammer 2618VS
GMC Sierra 3500HD Z71 6.6L Duramax/Allison
Reese Strait-Line WD
MainelyUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2015, 11:45 PM   #20
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Louisville
Posts: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by MainelyUS View Post
Great discussion on power vs manual stabilizers, over stressing them, deploying strategies (before or after extending sliders), etc. I have read manuals where one says deploy before and another says deploy after the TT is level,,,oh-well. Most of the manuals state the stabilizers are not to be used for leveling purposes. Whereas the slides are an integral part of the structural of the TT when retracted I prefer to level before deployment. I first level the TT L/R using a 4' level and leveling boards. A trick I discovered is when leveling L/R make sure the bubble touches the upper make of the leveling tube. This gives me the thickness needed under the wheels but more importantly when the slides are deployed the bubble in the leveling tube is dead-centered. Then I deploy the stabilizers using a 2"x12"x12" PPT as a landing pad. This technique works great.



The question no one has asked is the proper geometric shape of the stabilizer when deployed. Should it be a " tall narrow X" fully extended or a "more broad X"?



Any thoughts?


I have been told both ways on how far to extend the jacks. In my experience, the farther you extend them, the more weight you can put on them. As they get longer, the distance traveled decreases with each revolution meaning you get more torque. On the flip side, if they are shorter, you spread the weight out more across the frame. I have not been able to tell much difference either way but it try to keep mine at about 1/2 extension. However, it's hard to do on my Sierra 32qbbs 5th wheel. It sits pretty high up and you need a lot of boards to under the pads.

To the original post, I've had manual (with a cordless drill) and power and I prefer the power ones. I do a lot of camping on grass and softer surfaces and you need to give them a little bump every day or 2. The power jacks are just easier to tighten up daily.


2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke
2015 Sierra Select 32QBBS
2015 nights camping = 20

Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
__________________

__________________
Maxhise is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
power, stabilizers, windjammer

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:08 PM.