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Old 05-12-2015, 06:25 PM   #1
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Reese Revolution Pin Box

I read several post about not being able to keep the wedge bolts tight on the Reese Revolution Pin box.
My question is, is there some reason not to use lock tite to keep the bolts tight?
I don't see one, but maybe I am missing something.

Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:25 PM   #2
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I've never had an issue with the bolts coming loose. I actually had to move my pin box up 2 holes in order to get into my storage unit and I did use lock tite on the bolts. You actually have to use some in order to get the correct torque. I'd be interested to know why anyone would say not to use it...
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:34 PM   #3
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I read several post about not being able to keep the wedge bolts tight on the Reese Revolution Pin box.
My question is, is there some reason not to use lock tite to keep the bolts tight? I don't see one, but maybe I am missing something. Thanks.
IMO, the reason is the bolts & lock washers are over 2 slots on the stock wedge and the wedge moves due to the fact that the lock washers are not capable of holding the bolts due to the slots. I made a custom wedge and drilled holes 3 years ago and torqued the bolts and they have not loosened. IMO, if you want to use the stock wedge, you must tighten the wedge and at least one bolt, then measure in front and back of the other bolt and cut and weld a pc in front and back of the bolt the same thickness of the recessed slot. Then install and tighten this bolt and repeat the process for the remaining bolt. Then you can torque the bolts and the lock washers will do the job.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:38 PM   #4
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IMO, the reason is the bolts & lock washers are over 2 slots on the stock wedge and the wedge moves due to the fact that the lock washers are not capable of holding the bolts due to the slots. I made a custom wedge and drilled holes 3 years ago and torqued the bolts and they have not loosened. IMO, if you want to use the stock wedge, you must tighten the wedge and at least one bolt, then measure in front and back of the other bolt and cut and weld a pc in front and back of the bolt the same thickness of the recessed slot. Then install and tighten this bolt and repeat the process for the remaining bolt. Then you can torque the bolts and the lock washers will do the job.
I appreciate the input, but why won't green lock tite hold it?
Yes, I understand you SHOULD never get them loose without heat, but why would I want to loosen them?
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:43 PM   #5
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The wedge will move under the bolts even if you locktite them. The only way you can make sure the wedge never moves without filling the slot is to tack weld the bolt head to the wedge, which for obvious reasons is not advisable. Slots under lock washers just will not work regardless of what you do to the bolt.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:49 PM   #6
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...You actually have to use some in order to get the correct torque...
Can you explain why you have to use locktite to obtain the torque of only 150lb/ft?
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:00 PM   #7
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I understand about lock washer's but if you put green locktite on them, they are NOT MOVING unless you put heat on them.
So my original question again, why not use locktite on them and not worry about it.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:05 PM   #8
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I understand about lock washer's but if you put green locktite on them, they are NOT MOVING unless you put heat on them.
So my original question again, why not use locktite on them and not worry about it.
Naturally you can do as you want, it's your trailer, I was just sharing the experience of a career as a design engineer. It may hold for a while, but the stock wedge will still move.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:06 PM   #9
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I think a lot has to do with the hitch as well. The stock wedge was not installed correctly by my dealer. I bought a higher capable torque wrench, reset the wedge, torqued to spec. It has not moved in 3 seasons, I checked the torque each season. I have a Reese hitch and the wedge is specified to work with my hitch. Also grease is your friend. Make sure everything is well lubed.

Personally if my does move I will do what OC has stated. I would not use loctite of any strength in this case. You have to be able to restore normal operation should a tow be required. Make sure the lockout bolts are availible.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:57 PM   #10
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I think a lot has to do with the hitch as well. The stock wedge was not installed correctly by my dealer. I bought a higher capable torque wrench, reset the wedge, torqued to spec. It has not moved in 3 seasons, I checked the torque each season. I have a Reese hitch and the wedge is specified to work with my hitch. Also grease is your friend. Make sure everything is well lubed.

Personally if my does move I will do what OC has stated. I would not use loctite of any strength in this case. You have to be able to restore normal operation should a tow be required. Make sure the lockout bolts are availible.
You are the only one I've known that hasn't had problems with the stock factory wedge. I watched them torque mine and in less than 25 miles it had moved which is the only reason why I made my own without slots.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:31 PM   #11
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You are the only one I've known that hasn't had problems with the stock factory wedge. I watched them torque mine and in less than 25 miles it had moved which is the only reason why I made my own without slots.
Would it be possible to add another, or 2, bolts in a proper hole without the slots?
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:51 PM   #12
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Would it be possible to add another, or 2, bolts in a proper hole without the slots?
Just easier to make or buy a wedge made specifically for the hitch. The factory wedge is a laminated design tack welded together. IMO a pretty shoddy design. The factory wedge doesn't even fit very good in a Reese hitch which I have. It is a 2 point contact on a circular design fitting in straight sided chute. Mine is full contact on both sides. The load on a stock wedge is to turn the wedge and with the excessive clearance of the slot, the wedge is forced to the sides and at the same time being forced rearward. Check the stock wedge and the one I made. Video shows the laminated factory universal wedge.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:56 PM   #13
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I'll have to look at your in Nashville. Just interested in different set-ups.
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:49 PM   #14
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Ordered my wedge from Carid, under $40.
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:07 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the replies.
Another question for those of you that have this pin box.
Do you ever unhook when you are not straight on. Meaning the pin box is turned some?
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:11 PM   #16
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All the time. Even here at home most of the time it's turned some.I have to set a little crooked with the truck to put it where it needs to be on the driveway. My pin box will turn by hand if you give a heck of a pull.
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:14 PM   #17
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Practically every time, but I can't move my pinbox and it never fails to hook up. The pinbox will move, just not by hand.
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:15 PM   #18
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THANKS!!!!
Exactly what I wanted to hear. LOL
I am in the same situation, next to impossible to get my trailer where I want it at home and have the truck straight on it.
I can back into it straight to hook up, just can't get the trailer there backing it in and have the truck straight without an hour of going back and forth. LOL
Thanks again!
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Old 05-16-2015, 08:56 PM   #19
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Installed the new wedge today. Huge difference and very easy to install. Thanks for the recommendation!
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:56 PM   #20
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I had a weird thing happen today leaving for the Hoedown in Blyth Ontario. Left home and at the first turn it looked like the wedge had moved, went back home to check. Unhindered a pushed t
It forward. After the usual trial and error I ended exactly were I started it did not move and was tight. I continued on our trip. I noted when making a right turn it seems to grab at some point then just turn. Going to record the action on the return trip home. I have no logical explanation, maybe Reese visit at Goshen to have a look.


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