Research, Research, and then do more Research

[CNYCamper]

Maybe you could network with some local RV seasonal campers to see if anyone wants to work out a swap?

[Kenny kustom]

I would swap. Looking at doing a res fridge this summer.

Although, I'm probably the furthest away from you. ( Manitoba )

2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

[rzrnaz]

Originally Posted by Kenny kustom

You have the solar, wouldn't going to lithium batteries really help?

Right now, you can even use half of your ah.

Lithium can be taken down to 80% without and harm.


2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

When I need new ones I'll get AGMs so I can push the full converter current in them, but the basic equation of watts needed vs watts generated isn't favorable to a residential fridge.

[abomb]

Originally Posted by CNYCamper

Maybe you could network with some local RV seasonal campers to see if anyone wants to work out a swap?

That's a good idea. I have been trying to get him to reach out to the dealer before doing anything, and see what they have to say. Another issue was the show model had every option they offer. So it was ordered the same way, but that took him from 6,800 lbs. Estimated to 7,400 lbs actual dry weight of the unit. With all the extra options that eats up his storage potential before he exceeds the tow rating.

[abomb]

Originally Posted by Kenny kustom

I would swap. Looking at doing a res fridge this summer.

Although, I'm probably the furthest away from you. ( Manitoba )

2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

Yeah, that would be quite a ride. I'm going to get him to log on. He can add to this.

[Kenny kustom]

Originally Posted by rzrnaz

When I need new ones I'll get AGMs so I can push the full converter current in them, but the basic equation of watts needed vs watts generated isn't favorable to a residential fridge.

But, you will still be limited by the 60% discharge, would you not?


2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

[dan-nickie]

Seems the only option now is to leave the refrigerator turned off when you deliver on Wednesday. Then bring the food out when you come back on Friday.

[Bluepill]

A few ideas.

1. The most simple and cheap solution, if you require only refrigeration and not a freezer for the time the TT is not occupied is to store the food in a large ice cooler. When you get there, then transfer to the frdige after it has run long enough to cool down. The cooler can then be stored outside so it doesn't take up inside space.

2. If you do the conversion, speak with the factory about doing it. Because the LP systems require special ventilation and a chimney in order to operate properly and safely, this is not a DIY project, and probably beyond the scope of most dealers. Your warranty and insurance coverage could be negated if not done exactly to factory design specs.

[rzrnaz]

Originally Posted by Kenny kustom

But, you will still be limited by the 60% discharge, would you not?


2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

No, 20% for Lifeline AGM plus infinite charge current

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by Bluepill

A few ideas.
2. If you do the conversion, speak with the factory about doing it. Because the LP systems require special ventilation and a chimney in order to operate properly and safely, this is not a DIY project, and probably beyond the scope of most dealers. Your warranty and insurance coverage could be negated if not done exactly to factory design specs.

I disagree it not being a DIY project if you have the skills.

The hardest part will be what is required to change the cabinetry. I highly doubt the opening in the cabinets will accept the absorbtion fridge as is, so it will need some work to covert it fit the standard RV fridge. The good news is I believe the opening for the Whirlpool residential fridge is larger than required for an absorption fridge, so its all infill. You could probably buy some of the fine vinyl veneered material they advertise as wood through the dealer or maybe directly from the Vibe division.

Everything else is paying attention to clearances in the cavity behind the RV fridge, and building baffling so the cavity vents correctly. All of this info is in the installation manual that is provided with the fridge. You would need to cut in a lower vent in the RV sidewall and a roof vent which are both easy. You would then need to tap into the LP system somewhere and also tap into a 12 volt DC circuit. I assume they already have a 110V AC outlet mounted in the space.

If the fridge is in a slide-out the roof vent would not be required but an upper wall vent would, and the fridge would need to be a slide-out model or be adaptable to one.

[abomb]

Originally Posted by dan-nickie

Seems the only option now is to leave the refrigerator turned off when you deliver on Wednesday. Then bring the food out when you come back on Friday.

Worst case scenario you and Bluepill have the right idea. It's just nice to go out after work and all you have to do is unlock the camper and grab a cold one. But you have to make the situation work. I think the fridge will run while driving and connected to the tv, so no spoiled food or need for ice on the return trip.

[dan-nickie]

Seems like the title should be read your contract and build sheet rather than research. Hope you get it all worked out.

[Kenny kustom]

Originally Posted by rzrnaz

No, 20% for Lifeline AGM plus infinite charge current

No problem taking lifeline down to 20%?

Good to know..

2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

[lbrjet]

Talk to the dealer and trade it on what works. The 8 amps referenced above is for AC, not DC. Multiply by 10 for DC amps making the number about 80 DC amps for 1000 watts. You will need a huge bank of batteries and the space to put them, not to mention the hundreds of lbs of weight and the cost. Maybe the dealer will take it back.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by lbrjet

Talk to the dealer and trade it on what works. Maybe the dealer will take it back.

Take it back? Who eats the loss?

I would say trade in is an option, but subject to the normal trade in ramifications such as the immediate depreciation when it changed from a new to used unit, which it had.

The Buyer would take about an $8000 loss or better to do that. You could retrofit the gas absorption fridge in for way less than $2500 I would think, even if taking it back to Elkhart and having Vibe do it. And you would still have the residential fridge valued at around $600 or so to put in the garage or something.

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by rzrnaz

No, 20% for Lifeline AGM plus infinite charge current

Not true. Check page 38 of the Lifelind manual (appendix chart). Life cycles with a 50% discarge are expected to be 1000.
Life Cycles at 80% discharge are around 600
You lose 40% of your cycle life by going to 80% discharge.

I think Lifeline is a fine but overly expensive product....worth it to some but it is not immune to the same laws of physics other agm's of similar quality face.

as to lithium ion...I wouldn't pay $1200 bucks for a Group31 equivilent lithium just yet... but one can make the case that under test conditions they are the most economical over time. I prefer the real world to confirm that...and I don't think I need a battery that will outlast my RV.

[Kenny kustom]

So really, your ah are only half, because if you go to 20%, you are slowly " killing" your batteries.


2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

[rzrnaz]

Originally Posted by Kenny kustom

No problem taking lifeline down to 20%?

Good to know..

2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

Yes, pretty much. If you take a flooded cell battery down to 20%, you might get away with that once or twice, if you're lucky. AGM Lifeline's can actually be taken down to 10%. The rated life at 20% is 550 cycles vs 1,000 cylces at 50% discharge. So although it does reduce battery life, it's not fatal like it is with a flooded cell battery.

Here a link to their very detailed technical manual:
http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/manual.pdf

[rzrnaz]

Originally Posted by camaraderie

Not true. Check page 38 of the Lifelind manual (appendix chart). Life cycles with a 50% discarge are expected to be 1000.
Life Cycles at 80% discharge are around 600
You lose 40% of your cycle life by going to 80% discharge.

Yes, there is price to be paid, that is, you lose some battery life. However, you can do it, per page 38 of the manual. I wouldn't do it on purpose all of the time, but you can do it without killing the battery, which is not true with flooded cells. My point is that it is possible.

[rzrnaz]

The way to look at this is that if you 'use' your batteries (discharge them) you lose some of their life. The deeper and more frequent the discharge, the shorter the life.

For example, on a Lifeline, which is what I was talking about, if you only use 20% of your batteries, you will get 3,000 cycles. If you use 50% per cycle you get 1,000 cycles. And yes, if you use up 80% of the capacity, you get about 550 cycles.

All of these scenarios are possible. However, just because the number of cycles at 80% discharge is less than the number at 50% discharge, doesn't mean it's wrong or not possible.

If you want the most number of cycles, only use 10% or 20% of capacity. Your batteries will last a long number of cycles, but that may not be the way everyone needs to use their system for their situation. In the original post, the scenario was leaving the residential fridge on battery for 2 days. That was going to cause a deep discharge, so we were talking about how the best way to handle that situation.