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Old 12-06-2015, 06:04 PM   #21
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Maybe you could network with some local RV seasonal campers to see if anyone wants to work out a swap?
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:02 PM   #22
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Research, Research, and then do more Research

I would swap. Looking at doing a res fridge this summer.

Although, I'm probably the furthest away from you. ( Manitoba )

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Old 12-06-2015, 07:02 PM   #23
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You have the solar, wouldn't going to lithium batteries really help?

Right now, you can even use half of your ah.

Lithium can be taken down to 80% without and harm.


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When I need new ones I'll get AGMs so I can push the full converter current in them, but the basic equation of watts needed vs watts generated isn't favorable to a residential fridge.
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:05 PM   #24
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Maybe you could network with some local RV seasonal campers to see if anyone wants to work out a swap?
That's a good idea. I have been trying to get him to reach out to the dealer before doing anything, and see what they have to say. Another issue was the show model had every option they offer. So it was ordered the same way, but that took him from 6,800 lbs. Estimated to 7,400 lbs actual dry weight of the unit. With all the extra options that eats up his storage potential before he exceeds the tow rating.
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:15 PM   #25
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I would swap. Looking at doing a res fridge this summer.

Although, I'm probably the furthest away from you. ( Manitoba )

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Yeah, that would be quite a ride. I'm going to get him to log on. He can add to this.
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:25 PM   #26
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When I need new ones I'll get AGMs so I can push the full converter current in them, but the basic equation of watts needed vs watts generated isn't favorable to a residential fridge.

But, you will still be limited by the 60% discharge, would you not?


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Old 12-06-2015, 07:25 PM   #27
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Seems the only option now is to leave the refrigerator turned off when you deliver on Wednesday. Then bring the food out when you come back on Friday.
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:30 PM   #28
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A few ideas.

1. The most simple and cheap solution, if you require only refrigeration and not a freezer for the time the TT is not occupied is to store the food in a large ice cooler. When you get there, then transfer to the frdige after it has run long enough to cool down. The cooler can then be stored outside so it doesn't take up inside space.

2. If you do the conversion, speak with the factory about doing it. Because the LP systems require special ventilation and a chimney in order to operate properly and safely, this is not a DIY project, and probably beyond the scope of most dealers. Your warranty and insurance coverage could be negated if not done exactly to factory design specs.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:05 PM   #29
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But, you will still be limited by the 60% discharge, would you not?


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No, 20% for Lifeline AGM plus infinite charge current
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:30 PM   #30
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A few ideas.
2. If you do the conversion, speak with the factory about doing it. Because the LP systems require special ventilation and a chimney in order to operate properly and safely, this is not a DIY project, and probably beyond the scope of most dealers. Your warranty and insurance coverage could be negated if not done exactly to factory design specs.

I disagree it not being a DIY project if you have the skills.

The hardest part will be what is required to change the cabinetry. I highly doubt the opening in the cabinets will accept the absorbtion fridge as is, so it will need some work to covert it fit the standard RV fridge. The good news is I believe the opening for the Whirlpool residential fridge is larger than required for an absorption fridge, so its all infill. You could probably buy some of the fine vinyl veneered material they advertise as wood through the dealer or maybe directly from the Vibe division.

Everything else is paying attention to clearances in the cavity behind the RV fridge, and building baffling so the cavity vents correctly. All of this info is in the installation manual that is provided with the fridge. You would need to cut in a lower vent in the RV sidewall and a roof vent which are both easy. You would then need to tap into the LP system somewhere and also tap into a 12 volt DC circuit. I assume they already have a 110V AC outlet mounted in the space.

If the fridge is in a slide-out the roof vent would not be required but an upper wall vent would, and the fridge would need to be a slide-out model or be adaptable to one.
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