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Old 06-13-2016, 05:36 PM   #21
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Do what ever it takes to get it close to level I have the same problem in front of my house the street has a large crown. It takes one 2x6 to bring me to level side to side and with the power jack I set the front to back level. I try to be within 3* side to side and about the same front to back
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:15 PM   #22
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Bigmak,

Check your refrigerator manual. I think Dometic says it should be level enough to walk around in your RV comfortably. That is an easy guideline to follow.

The refrigerator coils are sloped so they will drain. The idea is to not have the refrigerator tilted so much the coils don't drain well. It doesn't have to be perfectly level.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:37 AM   #23
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I made our ramps out of 2 x 12,,, 2 x 10s would probably work just fine !!!
Treated lumber for sure !!!
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:00 AM   #24
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When I backed our MH onto the street in front of our house to get the ref rig. running and cool down, it didn't sit level because the street dips slightly towards the curb. I couldn't park it further out into the street for obvious reasons. So, maybe for this upcoming trip I should put a leveling block under the front and rear right tires to prop it up out of the gutter ? Forgive my ignorance, I am VERY new at this, and am trying to learn to do things correct!
This is the place to ask questions and to avoid costly mistakes and repairs. I bet there were others on this forum who were wondering this same issue.

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Old 06-15-2016, 07:12 AM   #25
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When I backed our MH onto the street in front of our house to get the ref rig. running and cool down, it didn't sit level because the street dips slightly towards the curb. I couldn't park it further out into the street for obvious reasons. So, maybe for this upcoming trip I should put a leveling block under the front and rear right tires to prop it up out of the gutter ? Forgive my ignorance, I am VERY new at this, and am trying to learn to do things correct!
I am sure most neighborhoods do not allow RVs to be parked in the street.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:56 AM   #26
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I made our ramps out of 2 x 12,,, 2 x 10s would probably work just fine !!!
Treated lumber for sure !!!
What helps that application is to sandwich a piece of plywood inbetween the 2 by, that will eliminate any chance of grain splitting under load. Just sayin'
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:17 AM   #27
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What helps that application is to sandwich a piece of plywood inbetween the 2 by, that will eliminate any chance of grain splitting under load. Just sayin'
Very good Idea !!!
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:06 AM   #28
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I am sure most neighborhoods do not allow RVs to be parked in the street.
That depends on where you live around here most of us do park in the city street.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:22 PM   #29
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I would put my faith in a certified Dometric tech... "the refrigerator must be level [bubble in center both ways] when using elec. or gas for max efficiency and safety."
The point is ???? I want a cold not a cool

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Old 06-17-2016, 07:27 AM   #30
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I would put my faith in a certified Dometric tech... "the refrigerator must be level [bubble in center both ways] when using elec. or gas for max efficiency and safety."
The point is ???? I want a cold not a cool

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That all great,,, but not always possible !!!

I have our home fridges set a little low in the back,,, when I walk away I want the doors to close !!! Have done that for years !!!
I know home & RV is different !!!
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