RV Covered Storage Unit

[Wino8313]

I am looking at building a covered area for storing my RV when not in use. Any advice would be appreciated; wood structure or metal...how much taller than the RV ..how much wider.....recommendations on companies that provide these...any tips you have from your experience......etc Thanks!!!!

[Bama Rambler]

Welcome from a neighbor just to the north of you.

Here's my thought on the size of the building.
It should have a 14' tall clear opening.
It should be wide enough to open the slide(s) (and still walk around if it's enclosed).
It should be 40' long even if your current rig is a lot shorter than that.

Metal or wood is a personal choice. I would probably go with metal from one of the major vendors around. Just be aware of any building codes you may have to meet in order to get electricity and/or water to it.

[47driver]

Are you looking for fashion over function, function over fashion, or a good combination of both? How much space do you have? Are you doing it yourself, or contracting it? Do you want a storage shed incorporated for your RV accessories? What is you budget?



The simple pre-made metal building are perfectly functional and inexpensive, but not that pleasing to the eye. Personally, I'm going without for now because I don't want the metal shed looking thing. Saving for function and fashion.


If you build, like I plan on, build your roof with rafter or a scissor truss. This way, even though your rafter tie is 2 feet taller than your roof line (or highest obstacle), you will be able to walk on and work the roof while still under the structure. Also, think about slide outs, outlets, water, sewer, and all the maintenance functions you will be doing. You don't want to be forced to pull it out to do all of these things.

[campkasten]

We installed one of those aluminum carports for our camper. 18 feet wide, 26 feet long and 12 feet high. Got it thru Carolina Carports.

It's wide enough so we can have the slide out and easily open the door and still keep it all under cover. It's long enough to cover our current camper and if we go to a longer camper, 26 feet is the longest we'd want to pull so it will cover that, too.

The height is high enough so we can get on the roof and clean it easily. We can also run the AC without worrying about air flow issues.

We had it installed on bare ground, anchored with SIX mobile home anchors (code required 4) and after installation we added 3 inches of lime rock as a base to park on.

We already had installed a 30 amp RV electric connection and a water hookup before pulling the trigger on the carport, so now we have a backyard campsite like most State Parks.


Here are pictures... one with the slide open before the rock base and one after:

[Velosprout]

I had a pole building garage built for complete protection. We had Menards design it and provide the materials. A contractor was hired to erect it; with the long poles for 14’ sidewalls I wouldn’t attempt to build it myself

[gaondrej]

We had a 50' x 30' building built for both our TT and boat. We had a local contractor that specializes in all sorts of metal buildings - homes, barn, sheds, and such build it. Hubby wanted to be able to drive through. This building and gravel to extend our driveway are probably the best $10k we ever spent.

Sorry, I tried to get the photo to post correctly.

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by campkasten

We installed one of those aluminum carports for our camper. 18 feet wide, 26 feet long and 12 feet high. Got it thru Carolina Carports.

It's wide enough so we can have the slide out and easily open the door and still keep it all under cover. It's long enough to cover our current camper and if we go to a longer camper, 26 feet is the longest we'd want to pull so it will cover that, too.

The height is high enough so we can get on the roof and clean it easily. We can also run the AC without worrying about air flow issues.

We had it installed on bare ground, anchored with SIX mobile home anchors (code required 4) and after installation we added 3 inches of lime rock as a base to park on.

We already had installed a 30 amp RV electric connection and a water hookup before pulling the trigger on the carport, so now we have a backyard campsite like most State Parks.


Here are pictures... one with the slide open before the rock base and one after:

Would you mind saying what Carolina Carports charges for something like this? Thanks.

[ProfChuck]

When you build, make sure you have at least 14 ft. clearance (nothing below it - not lights, hangers, anything). Slightly taller is better. The other thing is a floor. I saw some dirt floors in previous posts, but, it is much better to have a FLAT concrete floor to park on and work on. Previous posts about room for the slide outs are very important as well. We don't have room for our slide outs since the building was built before trailers had slide outs. Wish I had them. Also, on the floor - I had them lay the floor as a single slab with no cuts in it. If it is done right there won't be any cracks in it (make it reasonably thick), but, if you do get cracks, they won't cause problems with rolling wheels (like vacuums, etc.) over it most of the time like the "made" cuts in the concrete will. Also, I would make it longer than 40'. Ours is 40' and there is just enough room for our Windjammer to be comfortable and to be able to walk around it and work on it. 45 ft. would have helped. The TT is 34.5 ft. according to the company. Also, don't forget the electric. Might as well go for the 50A service for the trailer and if you only need 30 get an adaptor. Don't forget the lighting. We used shoplights in ours, originally fluorescent ones, but, now have gone to the LED's. Much better in winter cold since they don't need to warm up. I think we have about 24 of them in our barn on two circuits. Really helps when working on the trailer. We also coated the floor with regular floor polish and it has held up quite well. You can always take it off if you want to paint it later. Good luck. It really helps preserve your RV investment. (Oh, yes, don't forget good locks on all the doors. Yes, people do try to break in at times.)

[ProfChuck]

Let me add one other thing and that is a good number of regular 120V outlets. I find them very useful for all sorts of things from grinders, to air compressors, to work lights, to battery chargers (during the off season, everything is on float chargers), etc. You won't regret putting a lot of them in.

[campkasten]

Originally Posted by mjones12

Would you mind saying what Carolina Carports charges for something like this? Thanks.

Since Carolina Carports has many small businesses acting as agents/resellers all over the country, you should contact the reseller of your choice for an accurate quote for your specific location and needs. My suggestion: Do your homework well. I did WEEKS of searches on the Internet looking at multiple manufacturers, features, options and requirements before coming up with what we wanted.

You do not need to limit yourself to your geographical location in your choice of vendors... we used a guy in Swannanoa, NC. The crew that came to install our carport was from a town only 20 miles away from our house.

You decide what configuration you want, which optional features you want to add and they come up with a price.

We added a Certified build (we live in the city limits, so a permit is required), additional roof reinforcements, the 2 extra ground anchors, heavier gauge metal framing and an extra panel on each long side (36 inches) to add some structural reinforcement as well as extra shade.

Our choices worked well this last year when Hurricane Michael came to visit with Category One winds and gusts near 100 MPH.

The carport had ZERO damage. Same for the camper.
Two thumbs up!!

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by ProfChuck

...I saw some dirt floors in previous posts, but, it is much better to have a FLAT concrete floor to park on and work on.... Also, on the floor - I had them lay the floor as a single slab with no cuts in it. If it is done right there won't be any cracks in it (make it reasonably thick), but, if you do get cracks, they won't cause problems with rolling wheels (like vacuums, etc.) over it most of the time like the "made" cuts in the concrete will.

Might want to put 6x6 10/10 metal mesh in that concrete. That is a 6" x 6" mesh of AWG 10 steel wire. That reduces concrete cracking due to loading and thermal contraction. If you do, you can put shallow cuts across it that don't cut the mesh.

Larry

[mikes86gn]

40' x 54' 14' Tall Sliding door 12' wide 14' tall. Overhead door 10' x 10'
Pole construction. Plywood siding covered in vinyl siding two toned to break up the height that matches the house and shop. Aluminum soffits and fascia. Designed by myself. Framed by contractor. Finished by myself (except concrete) Lumber from Chelsa Lumber Company Chelsa Michigan. If you decide to go this route build as much as you can afford. They can never be too big.

Mike

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by campkasten

Since Carolina Carports has many small businesses acting as agents/resellers all over the country, you should contact the reseller of your choice for an accurate quote for your specific location and needs. My suggestion: Do your homework well. I did WEEKS of searches on the Internet looking at multiple manufacturers, features, options and requirements before coming up with what we wanted.

You do not need to limit yourself to your geographical location in your choice of vendors... we used a guy in Swannanoa, NC. The crew that came to install our carport was from a town only 20 miles away from our house.

You decide what configuration you want, which optional features you want to add and they come up with a price.

We added a Certified build (we live in the city limits, so a permit is required), additional roof reinforcements, the 2 extra ground anchors, heavier gauge metal framing and an extra panel on each long side (36 inches) to add some structural reinforcement as well as extra shade.

Our choices worked well this last year when Hurricane Michael came to visit with Category One winds and gusts near 100 MPH.

The carport had ZERO damage. Same for the camper.
Two thumbs up!!

Thank you.

[SQROOT]

I had Catalonia carports install a carport for my 5th wheel. Ordered thur 3rd party and he did not have clue about 5th wheels. I screwed up and did not do research on sizes and let the 3rd party tell me what size to get. wrong answer. Spent 9 months to get it right so the 5th wheel would fit. installers could not level correctly and cut too much off the legs. 5th wheel has been replaced and sunseeker fits great. Don't trust the sales guy. trust yourself.

[Wolverine 1945]

Check Google Photos of RV Ports !!!

[jimla]

Good threads. We have storage for the boat and TT. It has side walls on 3 sides with rollup door in the rear. With that said, I added something to spot the TT so that the slides can be open. I painted a red stripe on the floor so TT is spotted where it needs to be every time.

[Wolverine 1945]

Originally Posted by jimla

Good threads. We have storage for the boat and TT. It has side walls on 3 sides with rollup door in the rear. With that said, I added something to spot the TT so that the slides can be open. I painted a red stripe on the floor so TT is spotted where it needs to be every time.

Great Idea !!!
Do you park your TT on wood, or just on the Concrete ???

[badger5301]

36'w x 48'L x 16'H with a 14'H door shed for the toys. Able to fit the 33' 5th wheel, fish and ski boat, three pickups one with a plow and lawn tractors. As always, wish it was bigger but ran out of room. Always nice that the rv gets to stay inside when not in use. With the snow we have been getting here in Iowa it is nice to be able to keep everything inside.

[Wino8313]

Thanks for the feedback and the welcome!!!!

[Wino8313]

I appreciate all the replies. Has anyone used Alan Carports? If so feedback?