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Old 08-28-2016, 12:57 PM   #21
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If that's true, and if outside flow is immaterial, then why is a regulator suggested to be put in the line outside????????????????????
to protect your rv,.... some cg have very high water pressure and if you don't have a regulator that reduces that high pressure to a more manageable pressure, usually about 45-55psi, your piping system in the rv runs the risk of being ruptured by that higher pressure from the cg.....
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:00 PM   #22
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to protect your rv,.... some cg have very high water pressure and if you don't have a regulator that reduces that high pressure to a more manageable pressure, usually about 45-55psi, your piping system in the rv runs the risk of being ruptured by that higher pressure from the cg.....
I'm NOT trying to be ugly........but I don't get it. If the above posters are correct and it doesn't matter how fast you fill your tanks, they all work as slowly as they work........then what in the RV am I protecting since it doesn't matter how fast the water went IN???

I'm trying to understand.
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:19 PM   #23
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I'm NOT trying to be ugly........but I don't get it. If the above posters are correct and it doesn't matter how fast you fill your tanks, they all work as slowly as they work........then what in the RV am I protecting since it doesn't matter how fast the water went IN???

I'm trying to understand.
Can't you understand the damage a "ruptured"(broken, blown apart, cracked, destroyed, ect.), water line can cause inside your RV? We stayed at a cg one time where they warned us that their water pressure was almost 100psi, well because we had a regulator in our line, our trailer system(all plastic tubing) wasn't subjected to the 100psi, but only the 50psi that our regulator allowed. That's the reason for using a regulator, its to protect your RV............

and because the system is all plastic and a rupture can happen at any time even with a regulator, we make a point of shutting the water pressure off any time that we are leaving the trailer, ..... have heard reports of people returning to their RV to find water running out of every crack in it,
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:22 PM   #24
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I think what you are missing is the fact that there are different variables when dealing with water.

Flow, which describes the quantity of water, is what we were discussing when we were talking size of pipe.

Pressure, which is what will cause a pipe to burst, is the amount of force exerted on your pipes and fixtures. This is what the regulator controls and what is recommended by manufacturers. If you get a good pressure regulator it will not affect flow. However the cheaper ones will also decrease flow.
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:19 PM   #25
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OK, I was erring on the side of being nice.

But, yes I do understand the water pressure being too great coming from the outside pipes and causing RV damage. That I get.

But it seems to me (and Maybe I am not understanding them correctly) that the ones that say it doesn't matter what size hose you use, those are the guys that don't understand it. Because to their logic, it matters not the speed in which you put X gallons of water into the camper, because your RV has 1/2" pipes and it's limited. At least, that is their argument above........made because they claim it doesn't matter what size hose you use.

So either it matters what size hose you use and volume and flow of water entering the camper does matter.............or it doesn't matter and a regulator shouldn't be needed.

Option 3......I'm all wet maybe. LOL
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:53 PM   #26
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Whether you have a 25 foot 4" hose or a 1/2" hose supplying water at 30 psi you will have the same flow (volume) coming out of the faucets. No need for a pressure regulator.

Now if the pressure were at 100 psi then you would need a regulator. The flow (volume) coming out of the faucets would still be the same for either size hose.
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:46 PM   #27
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Did we get you dried off yet?
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:48 PM   #28
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You're getting there. Sort of a smallish drying towel for my lard self, takes a bit sometimes!!! LOL

Edit: Sounds like I'm confusing volume with flow maybe.
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:52 PM   #29
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I use this 1/2 inch hose to flush the black tank, it seem to do the job.

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Old 08-28-2016, 05:58 PM   #30
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I took a class in physics but it was before ice was invented so I don't remember much. On the operational/practical side, I put some sort of doodad on a faucet at a church camp in south central Oklahoma. My water flow or pressure or something was so weak, I could barely take a shower. I removed the doodad and took my shower. The next day, the fast moving or high pressure or ??? water blew out the vacuum breaker on my toilet and sprayed water all over the bathroom. Now I turn on the water and if it runs really fast/hard/whatever, I insert the doodad between the faucet and the blue with white stripped hose. If the water doesn't run fast/hard, I don't insert the doodad. I haven't blown up any water parts since I started using my scientifical method.
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:59 PM   #31
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That's funny. That's not a doodad. A doodad would have a switch. That's a thingamajig.

Unless it's blue, then it's a Blue Whooey.
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:10 PM   #32
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Actually you are both wrong. It is a whatchumucallit.
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:15 PM   #33
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Dadgnabit.

How many times can I be wrong in one day.

(Never mind, don't answer)
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:27 PM   #34
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Actually you are both wrong. It is a whatchumucallit.
I have a deep dislike for those, they burnout faster than muffler bearings...
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:05 PM   #35
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If they are burning out that fast you must have gotten the ones made in China. Get the American made ones, they last forever.
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:56 PM   #36
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Considering that the INTERNAL lines in a RV are usually 1/2" and sometimes 3/8" and that the water then flows through a faucet cartridge that probably has a 1/8" passage, I don't really think that the outside hose will have much effect.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:26 PM   #37
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anybody ever try the chrome reverse muffler bearings?
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:37 PM   #38
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I prefer the zirconium tangential muffler bearings. They cost a little more, but they keep your hands a lot warmer.

As for the hoses. It really doesn't matter whether you use 1/2" or 5/8" diameter, just be sure you have enough length to get from the faucet to the RV inlet.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:43 PM   #39
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Quote:
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I took a class in physics but it was before ice was invented so I don't remember much. On the operational/practical side, I put some sort of doodad on a faucet at a church camp in south central Oklahoma. My water flow or pressure or something was so weak, I could barely take a shower. I removed the doodad and took my shower. The next day, the fast moving or high pressure or ??? water blew out the vacuum breaker on my toilet and sprayed water all over the bathroom. Now I turn on the water and if it runs really fast/hard/whatever, I insert the doodad between the faucet and the blue with white stripped hose. If the water doesn't run fast/hard, I don't insert the doodad. I haven't blown up any water parts since I started using my scientifical method.



Agreed. Or use a water softener. It drops pressure too.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:49 PM   #40
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I always buy two 5/8" fresh hoses. That way when I fill my fresh tank I have more flow than the smaller hoses. And I buy a 50' 5/8" hose for the black flush and draining the gray tank..... Quickly. 🙌
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