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09-16-2018, 09:37 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Greensburg pa
Posts: 198
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Second electricity entrance
We are considering using our TT more into the colder months. We can run an electric heater but want the option of running a second. Has anybody done a mod to allow a 15 amp entrance with breaker box to run a second heater? How did you make entrance/placement of breaker, connections at entrance, etc. I’m sure I could find a way to just run a heavy extension cord but would prefer something safer and more permanent (definitely the extra breaker). Ideas and pics appreciated.
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09-16-2018, 10:49 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: x
Posts: 12,423
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Something you might consider is splitting the circuits you have now by adding one or two new circuits so that you can run more then one heater. I did that so I could have the coffee maker on in the kitchen and someone could use a hairdryer in the bathroom without popping a circuit breaker. I also use a wave 6 catalytic requires no power just a very small amount of propane I have used it when it was really cold with no problems.
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09-16-2018, 11:19 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Salina, Oklahoma
Posts: 61
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I did what you are wanting to do to two different trailers. I used one of these
MinnKota MKR-23 AC Power Port (White), in the side of my trailer, the other side of an inside cabinet. If you look up that part on the net you'll see that you just plug a cord into it. Inside the cabinet I put a small breaker box and was then was able to put two extra outlets in my trailer. It's really a simple upgrade and does exactly what you want done. If I you have any questions I will try to help. Good luck.
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I John 5:13
2007 Silverback 30LSTS
2006 F250 Super Duty Crew 6.0
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09-17-2018, 12:10 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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an easy and safe way is to run a short cord somewhere thru the floor to the outside from a receptacle location inside. From there you run a 12GA extension cord to the 20 amp receptacle on the pedestal. No load on your trailer panel and the heater would be on its own 20 amp breaker from the pedestal. Others just run an extension out thru one of the slide seals.
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09-17-2018, 05:59 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie
an easy and safe way is to run a short cord somewhere thru the floor to the outside from a receptacle location inside. From there you run a 12GA extension cord to the 20 amp receptacle on the pedestal. No load on your trailer panel and the heater would be on its own 20 amp breaker from the pedestal. Others just run an extension out thru one of the slide seals.
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I did exactly this to provide a second source of power for my water heater. I made up a short cord that penetrates my floor through the same insulated hole as my low point drains. The male plug dangles about 6 inches below the floor, ready to connect an extension cord. Although i didn't see the need for a breaker box i could have easily installed one, using this as the feed. Everything is 12 guage.
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Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
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09-17-2018, 06:18 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody
I did exactly this to provide a second source of power for my water heater. I made up a short cord that penetrates my floor through the same insulated hole as my low point drains. The male plug dangles about 6 inches below the floor, ready to connect an extension cord. Although i didn't see the need for a breaker box i could have easily installed one, using this as the feed. Everything is 12 guage.
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Installing a breaker box would have been redundant. It's on a breaker at the ped.
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09-17-2018, 06:38 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie
Installing a breaker box would have been redundant. It's on a breaker at the ped.
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I agree, that is why I didn't install one. The water heater is the only thing on the citcuit.
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
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09-17-2018, 08:48 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Salina, Oklahoma
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody
I agree, that is why I didn't install one. The water heater is the only thing on the citcuit.
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I guess I should have checked with you before I did mine. I will start posting all of my changes to make sure they are up to the standards of you guys.
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I John 5:13
2007 Silverback 30LSTS
2006 F250 Super Duty Crew 6.0
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09-17-2018, 09:52 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollin Okie
I guess I should have checked with you before I did mine. I will start posting all of my changes to make sure they are up to the standards of you guys.
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No need to get snippy. We were just giving an easy out way of doing it. Some people are not mechanically inclined. I did not look up what you posted because you didn't supply a link to it. It sounds like a good idea. There are many different ways of accomplishing this type on Modification.
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09-17-2018, 10:26 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,336
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For the sake of reliability and appearance I think I'd be inclined to install a second power inlet just like the one the main power cord is attached to. Just mark it "Auxilliary Pwr Inlet" and have a second cord that is secured with a weatherproof connection to the RV and a standard 120 v "Plug" on the other end.
On my Trailer there's plenty of room next to the existing inlet to add a second one. Then merely install a wall receptacle on the inside wall and wire power inlet to receptacle. Perhaps a little more expensive than just running a cord through the floor that hangs in the weather until plugged into an extension cord but a lot more reliable, especially on a heater circuit.
Of course one could do a modified conversion to 50 amp service. Run the 30 amp trailer electric's off one leg of the 50 amp and then wire the other for the heaters. For non-50 amp service use one of the 30 amp/20 amp Y adapters where one side is plugged into 30 amp service and other is plugged into the 20 amp receptacle on the pedestal.
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"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
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09-17-2018, 11:28 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 82
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I decided to install a 50 amp breaker panel for 120 volt tank heaters and to power two oil radiator heaters and 2 forced air heaters for the upcoming winter.
I do, however, have a separate 20 amp power inlet just for my converter.
I'm still leaving my 30 amp panel in and will run a line from the 50 amp to the 30 amp. Hardest part of this mod is figuring out where to put new outlets. Those darn water tanks under the camper affected my outlet placement.
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09-17-2018, 12:16 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Greensburg pa
Posts: 198
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I already ordered a MinnKota mkr23. Both for appearance and to run ito a panel box/ breaker for added safety. Don’t want to risk loosing a $40k plus investment to save $20.
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09-17-2018, 12:43 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollin Okie
I guess I should have checked with you before I did mine. I will start posting all of my changes to make sure they are up to the standards of you guys.
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No one is criticising your install. Just pointing out other options.
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
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09-17-2018, 03:06 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: x
Posts: 12,423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollin Okie
I guess I should have checked with you before I did mine. I will start posting all of my changes to make sure they are up to the standards of you guys.
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I learned early on the forum that no matter how good a wrench you buy someone will have a better one! If you are happy and it works good for you.
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Retired Navy
Jake my sidekick (yellow Lab) 10/04 - 05/20
2017 RAM 2500 CC 4X4 Cummins Diesel
2016 Flagstaff 26 FKWS
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09-17-2018, 04:04 PM
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#15
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,144
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Before this thread derails... there have been many posts on adding a second electrical connection to the R/V. Old Coot was one of the first. I believe his was for a 2nd A/C but it has bee long enough back I don't remember for sure. Others have done it for the water heater and others for the use of an electric heater.
It's isn't too big a job and there are posts with photos you can peruse if you do a search.
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09-17-2018, 05:01 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Savannah
Posts: 791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollin Okie
I guess I should have checked with you before I did mine. I will start posting all of my changes to make sure they are up to the standards of you guys.
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This comment made me laugh out loud. I took it as good natured ribbing because everybody has a different way of doing things. If it works for you and you're happy with the results that's all that matters.
__________________
Kirk
2017 Forester 3051S
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09-17-2018, 09:11 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Greensburg pa
Posts: 198
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Yes there are different ways, and that’s what I was looking for. I have decided to add an additional electrical entryway to the exterior of the TT with and internal circuit breaker. While the 20amp has a breaker at the supply, you work with the assumption that it works properly, and a second level of security doesn’t hurt. That’s why we have breakaway brakes on our trailers. Thanks to all for the input
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09-17-2018, 09:45 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,011
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I put a plug pass through on the outside wall of our unit. Then ran a short piece of 12 gauge romex wire to an outlet under the lower bunk. Just run a short extension cord to the pedestal. It lets us run either an extra heater or DWs blow drier within using up any of our 30 amp Service. I can take pictures tomorrow if needed. Jay.
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09-17-2018, 10:11 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnman
We are considering using our TT more into the colder months. We can run an electric heater but want the option of running a second. Has anybody done a mod to allow a 15 amp entrance with breaker box to run a second heater? How did you make entrance/placement of breaker, connections at entrance, etc. I’m sure I could find a way to just run a heavy extension cord but would prefer something safer and more permanent (definitely the extra breaker). Ideas and pics appreciated.
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I was looking at this for that exact reason. Nice mount and you can cut the interior plug or use it as is.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S..._kVgOBbYZTSW4N
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09-17-2018, 10:26 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9,904
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A few years ago We added a second service, breaker box, and outlets. This was for a second AC, heater in the winter, and second refrigerator.
We did the box as we had two extra circuits.
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